Hi all,

 

I have had boost leak conserns for a while so I just logged MB011. Problem is i cant understand the result...

 

Series 3 is Specified, series 4 is actual. The dip is a gear change...

 

Anyone?

which colour is which?  I am guessing that green might be actual....

 

Basically "actual" is what the MAP sensor is reporting, and specified is what the car (ie. ECU) is trying to achive, the two should follow the same shape (approx) and the closer together the better (I guess).

 

I should say I am no expert on this, but I have more than my share of turbo related issues.  Sodding thing just started showing signs of limp again, so I have given it a Mr Muscle this morning.  I also have a feeling you are best logging this through pretty much the full rev range (obviously when warm, maybe up a hill in 2nd & 3rd gear)

Purple is actual so its the higher one!!! Figure that out? I am guessing it might be the remap causing it but i figured that would specify higher and actual would still follow it?

 

I used to regularly mr muscle mine, the WVO clogs it up regularly! But its been a fair few months since i last did it.

 

You have done a lot to yours, you need a remap... broom broom.

Is the y axis the rpm? If so swap the x and y around.

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No horizontal (x) is RPM, verticle is pressure

I used to regularly mr muscle mine, the WVO clogs it up regularly! But its been a fair few months since i last did it.

 

You have done a lot to yours, you need a remap... broom broom.

 

I would only remap it once I can get it to play nicely!  I have just tested mine (stationary, reving it in the garage), and I get a peak in the actuals as I increase the revs, and then everything is smooth and close.  I did a screengrab or two in vagscope, I see if I can get the files off my old non-internet enabled laptop!  I think I last cleaned mine 6 months ago, I have refined the process and I don't remove the engine cover or EGR assembly anymore - just the link pipe between the turbo and EGR assembly.

Here are my graphs (x = time).  Logged using a cold car in the garage straight after a Mr Muscle (made the garage smell nice  )

 

Each time I increase the revs as you can see the actual jumps, and then drops down to follow the specified curve much better.  This results might be a bit fake as the car wasn't moving at the time.

 

 

OK, compared to this...

 

blue - RPM

green - actual MAP

red - specified MAP

Purple - Duty

Yours looks much smoother than mine.  I don't like the way mine jumps, I have my original n75, might swap it over tomorrow and see it stops that.

 

I really need to dump some figures from mine and make a better graph - a weekend job I think.

the initial peak is supposed to be there, not sure why it isnt on mine.

If the initial peak is correct, then I would suggest you had a return of sticky vanes in the turbo or a lazy n75 valve (or a slight vacuum leak)

doubt sticky vanes, it doesnt feel like it usually does when it has them. I have suspected a vac leak for a while

Easy enough to check for the sticky vanes (as I am sure you well know).  Mine has a vacuum leak from the rigid pipe which routes across the bulkhead to the brake servo.  Oddly after I cleaned mine, had a spirited drive to work (60 miles) I got to work, sucked on the vacuum pipe and I could hear the tell-tail sound of it sticking, so I am thinking I need to take mine off and clean it all again - can't be the vane side, must be the control ring side.  Fecking thing.

Edited 7 December, 201312 yr by mbames

The wife's 110bhp Octy has been going into limp mode, I replaced the MAP sensor last night as it had thrown a code for that, It also had a boost leak from the hard plastic upper intercooler pipe, It threw the 17965 - Charge Pressure Control error last night after and went into LIMP, I'm hoping the vanes are stuck as it obviously hasn't been making proper boost for a while..

 

What's the easiest way to clean the turbo vanes?  I read that someone had put the Mr Muscle down the EGR pipe, how do I do that? 

 

I was going to replace the vac lines, what's the internal Dia of the lines as I will just replace any suspect ones I find..

Standard vacuum pipe pipework on my 110.  iirc, some of the pipework is 5mm, and the rest a slight smaller (or larger?), maybe 3mm.

 

Have a search for "Loftys Mr Muscle Treatment" for a guide.

 

 

 

I removed some my pipework (EGR) and had a broken Anti-shudder valve (no fixed), so ended up like this for a while:

So it's requesting about 2.2 bar but making 2.6bar (minus atmopshere pressure)

Have you logged your standard map?

Cheers for that, Going to my brothers later in the week, he has a TDi MK2 golf running a 1.9 ve engine doing 228 bhp & 349 lb/ft..

 

Will get some Mr Muscle for the trip..

 

Standard vacuum pipe pipework on my 110.  iirc, some of the pipework is 5mm, and the rest a slight smaller (or larger?), maybe 3mm.

 

Have a search for "Loftys Mr Muscle Treatment" for a guide.

 

 

 

 

I removed some my pipework (EGR) and had a broken Anti-shudder valve (no fixed), so ended up like this for a while:

 

No I havent. Should I put the old map back in and log that?

Worth a shot. Least you can compare.