Success, they have agreed to extend my warranty by another year when the time comes. They've said they will send me a letter once the new engine is fitted next week confirming this and instructions to contact the dealer near to the expiry of the warranty with a copy of the letter to get the additional years cover. Hopefully is will simply be an insurance policy and won't be required.

They have confirmed that the dealer with notify the DVLA and confirm all of this with me next week. They will also have full documentation for the new engine. I am told it is reconditioned but ALL relevant parts have been replaced and the engine is fully tested... We shall see.

Success, they have agreed to extend my warranty by another year when the time comes.

 

Result !!!!

 

Those that don't ask don't get (although it may take several attempts). A lesson for us all.

Result !!!!

 

Those that don't ask don't get (although it may take several attempts). A lesson for us all.

You are quite right Big Sheep, however you really shouldn't have to ask in the first place if their "Customer Promise" bull were true.

It is really a SCANDAL,  with SKODA & the VOLKSWAGEN AUDI GROUP.

 

No policy on Engine Failures within Warranty,  no hard and fast rules. 

 

Dealers Threatening that an Owner of a New or Used car will have to pay to have an Oil Consumption Test.

Even where one has peviously been done and the Engine Failed, then the try the Engine Mod of a Breather Valve.

 

Then some cars are to get an Engine Rebuild at a Dealers Workshop, some to get a Short Engine,  some a Reconditioned and some get New from Stock. Or sources from around the World.

 

Then they say No Extra Warranty, some got 2 years of Extended Warranty and some get 1 Additional Year.

As to those that get a Rejection Deal, 

those are between Skoda & the Cars Owner.

 

Still some get the runaround even now.  

 

So as i say,  SKODA UK & WARRANTY ISSUES ARE A SCANDAL.

I have just put my reg no. into the Castrol website and they say Edge 5W40; I believe Skoda say 5W30.

Any comments?

Tony

Use either, it is up to you.  But needs to be VW 502.00 or if on variable services VW 504.00

I've had my oil temp up to 127 C on track  my car is variable code, i do the 10k thing anyway .

Edited 9 February, 201412 yr by sharkrider

The oil I put my vRS is 5W30 to VW 504.00

I've started the car up a few times this weekend and the initial 5 or so seconds have been really rough sounding. Like the sound of metal clatter... Luckily it goes in on Tuesday but does anyone know what this is? I've only been running it on Esso 95 since realising the oil issue, didn't think it was worth wasting super on it until it has the new engine.

Hopefully will be picking the car up this evening, been with the garage since Monday evening.

 

Any thoughts on how I should run it to start with... The dealer is saying there is a run in period of 1000 miles or so during which time they said I need to take it easy.

 

However everything else suggests just drive it normlly... it is a reconditioned engine with all existing used parts from my car (gearbox, Turbo, Supercharger etc). Surely driving it properly ensure it runs well beyond the 1000 mile they've said...

 

As for informing the relevant authorities, does any one know what exactly they should be telling the DVLA as they don't seem to concerned about it...

 

I will be filling up with some 97 or 99 petrol also.

IMPORTANT.

Ask if the new spark plugs are fitted, and if not i would not accept it,

 i would wait until they do put in new ones before taking it away.  

NOT AT YOUR EXPENSE, BUT AS PART OF THE WARRANTY AND REPLACING WITH A RECONDITIONED ENGINE.

(They can show you the New Plugs as fitted on the Worksheet for the Warranty Work and replacement parts used.)

 

They have to change the Engine Numbers and the Stickers on the Car and yes the DVLA need informed unless they are allowed to stamp the Original Numbers on the Used Block.

 

I can give you the link shortly.

Get the Service Book Stamped and a Copy of the Warranty Invoice listing all the Parts and new Spark Plugs etc.

The service interval for the cars services at 9400 miles is now different from the Original First Registration Date.

Important for Future Owners.

When Spark Plugs are due for replacement as an example.

 

So , Collecting it.

, Dip the Oil when you collect the car, note where it is.

Dip it when you get home, hot dip,  note where it is, Cold Dip it tomorrow, note where that is.

Job Done.

 

Reconditioned engine.

Let the Oil get warm and run it like any car.

It was not Reconditioned by some back street Reborer.  WE HOPE.

 

So just listen and take care that all is OK,

but all that is Changed is Piston, Rings and Bearings, 

excellent Quality VW Parts, or should be.

 

Enjoy the car,  have fun.

 

*******************************

Other Dealers have changed the Engine Numbers and know their responsibilty with the DVLA when fitting a replacement engine,

Skoda UK have recognised what needs done when other members have pointed out to them and assured them it will be done correctly.

So ask your Dealership again.

They just need to get the New VIN Stickers Provided for the Car, and let you change the Numbers once they give you an Official Letter and a Receipt for the replacement engine.

(Unless they have stamped the Original engine Number on the replacement Engine.)

Then you just need that recorded for the cars records. & Future Owners.

 

https://www.gov.uk/change-vehicle-details-registration-certificate/changes-you-need-to-update.

 

WHY IS IT THAT PROFESSIONAL GARAGES AND DEALERSHIPS APPEAR TO NOT KNOW OR CARE ABOUT THE UK LAW<
AND ARE PREPARED TO CAUSE BUYERS OF THEIR VEHICLES FUTURE PROBLEMS IN THE LIKES OF AN INSURANCE CLAIM<
MAYBE WHERE A VEHICLE IS WRITTEN OFF AND ENGINE NUMBERS DO NOT MATCH.

Thanks George, you've given me all the info I need  to go in fully prepared this evening. I've got a feeling it will either go one way or another. It will all be done as it should be, service book stamped as it was left in the car and all over info printed off ready for me. Or it could go the complete oposite way. My bets are that they will be put on the spot with some of these questions...

Well the dipstick in these cars really is useless...

The cold dip showed and shows still oil right up on the orange area.

The hot dip, which I have just done is impossible to get a proper reading. I can see oil on the meshed area which appears to be about 3/4 of the way up. But then is it also on the orange area again. My driveway isn't flat so I've run it to work which has a nice dead flat car park, oil temperature up to 90 degrees and then sat in the car for 5 minutes before dipping. I then dipped a number of times over the next 5 minutes and could not get a conclusive reading. Why can't they make these things as simple as they should be!

 

I've done about 150 miles over the weekend since picking up so it shouldn't really have used any. But who knows, if it's anything like the last engine I would have to put about £6 of oil in now.

Edited 17 February, 201412 yr by austenw90

Sorry on phone so broken reception cold dip fine. Look at how to do j a b a z u m a dip before driving

Just away to do a cold dip I did 600 miles last night

 

 

EDIT.

Once the oil gets dirtier it is easier to see, nice golden oil is a problem.

 

Jabazuma Dip.

 

Open the bonnet and do a stone cold dip,

with 3.6 litres in that should be below the Top Orange Marker, not that easy to see. 

but enough oil is in to be safe when cold it is above the Crosshatch when cold..

All the oil is in the sump and up the Dipstick Pipe.

 

So just open the drivers door, put key in and start the engine and stop right away.

Now 0.5 litres is in the Oil filter.

Dip it cold like this.

Hopefully that is mear the top of the crosshatch. AREA 'A'.

 

If you do a hot dip after a run, hopefully at the same place as the Jabazuma Dip.

Thanks again George, I will give this a go.

I had a slight issue this evening, I thought the car died coming up the road near home. The road is a hill will a speed bump at the top. I slowed as always and paddled down to 2nd to go over the hump. No problems until a slight judder then I tried to accelerate away up the rest of the road and nothing. No power at all, as though the accelerator was disconnected. About 5 seconds or so later it came back to life and drove on, during the down time the rev counter just sat at idle I think.

Any ideas?

Not having much luck as I've noticed corrosion around the centre cap on one of the alloys, on the wheel not the caps which were replaced just to corrosion in December.

This car isn't filling me with confidence at the moment, such a shame as it is fantastic 90% of the time. I never expected these issues coming from a Fiat to a VAG car, especially quality issues. The Italians put them to shame!

Edited 18 February, 201412 yr by austenw90

Yes i have an idea.

 

& sadly it is an issue that has reared its head before after engines have been replaced.

First get the ECU plug checked by them, and the Earths, and get the ECU run through the diagnostics.

They are not that good often at swapping engines.

 

??did they say much about the DVLA?

 

Wheels can be changed/replaced with the Warranty.

Thanks, I've just emailed them now - I though it best to start getting correspondence in writing.

I jumped in it again earlier, engine still warm. Started it and it started rocking rapidly back and forth on the spot. Only gently but enough to feel. The engine sounded as though it was revving up and down but not enough to notice in the rev counter.

They assured me that the DVLA was all taken care of and that they would forward me a copy of all of their paperwork in a week or two. They stamped and made a note of the work in the service book (after I asked). They said they had done a number of these and that the process with the DVLA was very straight forward.

I raised this with the chap at Skoda UK who I have been dealing with and just said that I wasn't confident that it had all been sorted correctly. He is going to get back to me.

Do they do the wheels in both silver and black or are the black ones just refurbs? Do you know if the black are the polished type like these or traditional alloys (if that makes sense) it seems that the polished alloys are prone to this kind of thing if they are poorly manufactured. Or possibly are just much more fragile and not really suited to British roads.

Edit: I have notice when you look through the wheel, as I clean this bit too, that the inner circumference isn't finished like the face is. Is this normal? All other alloys I've ever had including polished ones have had a smooth lacquered inner to them.

Edited 18 February, 201412 yr by austenw90

No the Black Gigaro are not the same as a Dark Chrome but done Black.

 

I have Stripped Black Gigaro, the face is not machined the same as the Dark Chromes,  same blank Alloys though.

 

Black Gigaro, the rear side, sorry not great picture as usual.

George, How is yours getting on?

I wonder if you can advise... I was led to believe and told that the replacement engine was reconditioned, however the dealer said that the date cast into the side of the block was December 2013 therefore I would assume it isn't a CAVE but a CTHE? However I am told that it was just the engine lump replaced and all other parts were kept as before.

It's going back in tomorrow so maybe I can try and get more info and the promised paperwork however it doesn't seem that the people who ought to know actually know much at all...

I was also told that the service intervals are to remain the same... As if the engine had never been replaced. This was the dealer service manager telling me.

EDIT: even if the service were due in 1000 miles time...

Edited 24 February, 201412 yr by austenw90

Do you mean you got a 'Short Block',

& they used your Head & all the engines other originals,

Turbo, Supercharger etc etc.

 

Or ask if it was Engine,  ie Block & Head?  Everything else swapped,

No new Cat !!!!

SURELY NEW SPARK PLUGS WERE FITTED

 

Well a recondition engine is usually a Used Block, rebored, new liners in a engine with liners, and all new inners.

 

SO HOPEFULLY YOU HAVE A NEW BASE ENGINE WITH THE NEW HEAD ALREADY ON, DELIVERED IN THE CRATE.

 

Who knows what they are playing at.

If they want to put in new oil and filter and change it at 1,000 miles after its just been changed fair enough.

(Otherwise thats a wee freebee you got. Not being serious there.)

 

But stuff paying them for 3.6 litres of oil and a filter and a sump plug.

Let them pay for it.

A free service is the minimum gesture they should be making considering the runaround they give customers.

Well I got a copy of the invoice for the works today. To confirm the replacement is a CAVE.

Description of works: customer complaint of oil consumption to high - Skoda customer care agreed to pay for this test - completed oil consumption test and found oil consumption to be 1037.7ltrs per 1000km - the engine need the new modified air hose and crankcase breather before a further oil consumption test - the customer was not happy about this and complained to customer services who instructed us to replace the engine straight away - replaced engine and fitted the new breather and modified air supply - road tested - all ok.

I think they have put the decimal place in the wrong place when measuring Litres... I must also add that the car had. ALREADY had the crankcase breather mod in August 2013 so unsure why they wanted to do this again.

Total cost 3331.16 excluding tax. No mention of spark plugs on the list of parts, do these come already fitted to the engine? The engine part is "Base Eng" part no. 03C100092DX. Other parts listed are various screws and bolts, sleeve, cool.add, various gaskets, venthouse & pipe.

One thing I've noticed is the mileage on the invoice is from when I initially took the car in, dated 23 December, 500 miles prior to the engine being replaced.

Good stuff.

 

put that engine code into google.

 

There is one on Ebay with 6 miles on it for £3,020.37 Free Delivery Denmark.

& VW Retailer is £4,533.26 without tax (5,437.91 euro)

 

The Base Engine is the 1.4 TSI same all the other 1.4TSI until the Turbo or 

turbo and supercharger get fitted.

 

JUST ASK THEM STRAIGHT, DID YOU PUT IN THE OLD SPARK PLUGS TO SAVE

LESS THAN £37.00 ? On a Job they are doing for near £4,000.

Thanks George. It completely slipped my mind today to ask about the spark plugs.

I've got to go back a week on Saturday to demonstrate to the tech the rattling noise I've been hearing, fortunately they are only a 10 minute drive away.