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Another Hesitation Issue


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Hi All,

 

I have recently developed a problem with the car hesitating or holding back under hard acceleration. It started last nite after a good hard spirited run. The car performs very well at first and then as it got hotter and hotter the problems occur. It doesnt do it all the time but noticed it again this morning on the way to work. Again as the car got hotter. When it hesitates it shows no signs of boost fluctuation on the gauge however. I have noticed recently though that the performance in general is much better when the car is just getting up to temp than it is when the car has been run for a while.

 

I havent had a chance to scan for codes yet but my first thoughts are temp sensor? Does this sound like a possibility?

 

Car has had recent MAF, Fuel Pump (Although couldn't get a new one at the time so used a known good one) and Replacement Actuator.

 

Hope someone can shed some light on it.

 

Thanks

 

Dazz

Edited by Decender
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Yeh genuine MAF used. Car may be due a set of plugs. No air filter tho as its fitted with a CAI and that is cleaned regularly.

 

Will chuck a set of plugs in this afternoon and take it for a thrash :)

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Ok so scanned for fault codes when I got home and found a potential minefield. Really need some help with these as ive never had so many codes on one car. Im thinking they must all point to one issue really (or thats what im hoping). Only scanned the car about 3 weeks ago and there were none:

 

17645/P1237 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 1 (N30): Open Circuit 

Possible Symptoms 

• MIL On 

• Poor engine performance 

Possible Causes 

• Fuse for injector 

• Wiring harness issue 

• Failed injector 

• Failed ECM 

Possible Solutions 

• Inspect fuse for injector 

• Inspect wiring to and from injector, see repair manual 

• Ohm test injector, replace if needed, see repair manual 

 

17646/P1238 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 2 (N31): Open Circuit 

Possible Symptoms 

• MIL On 

• Poor engine performance 

Possible Causes 

• Fuse for injector 

• Wiring harness issue 

• Failed injector 

• Failed ECM 

Possible Solutions 

• Inspect fuse for injector 

• Inspect wiring to and from injector, see repair manual 

• Ohm test injector, replace if needed, see repair manual 

 

17647/P1239 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 3 (N32): Open Circuit 

Possible Symptoms 

• MIL On 

• Poor engine performance 

Possible Causes 

• Fuse for injector 

• Wiring harness issue 

• Failed injector 

• Failed ECM 

Possible Solutions 

• Inspect fuse for injector 

• Inspect wiring to and from injector, see repair manual 

• Ohm test injector, replace if needed, see repair manual 

 

17648/P1240 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 4 (N33): Open Circuit 

Possible Symptoms 

• MIL On 

• Poor engine performance 

Possible Causes 

• Fuse for injector 

• Wiring harness issue 

• Failed injector 

• Failed ECM 

Possible Solutions 

• Inspect fuse for injector 

• Inspect wiring to and from injector, see repair manual 

• Ohm test injector, replace if needed, see repair manual 

 

17834/P1426/005158 - EVAP Purge Valve (N80): Open Circuit 

Possible Symptoms 

• Malfunction Indicator Ligh (MIL) active 

Possible Causes 

• EVAP Purge Valve (N80) faulty 

• Wiring/Connectors from/to EVAP Purge Valve (N80) faulty 

• Fuel Pump Relay (J17) faulty 

Possible Solutions 

• Check EVAP Purge Valve (N80) 

• Check Wiring/Connectors from/to EVAP Purge Valve (N80) 

• Check Fuel Pump Relay (J17) 

 

17956/P1548/005448 - Boost Pressure Controle Valve (N75): Open Circuit 

Possible Symptoms 

• Irregular behaviour 

• Loss of power 

• Limp mode 

Possible Causes 

• Wiring and/or connections faulty (short circuit) 

• N75 faulty 

Possible Solutions 

• Check wiring and connections 

• Check / Replace N75 

 

17526/P1118/004376 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B1 S2: Open Circuit 

Possible Symptoms 

• Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) faulty 

Possible Causes 

• Wiring/Connectors from/to Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2 Heating faulty 

• Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2 Heating Circuit faulty 

Possible Solutions 

• Check Wiring/Connectors from/to Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2 Heating 

• Check Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2 Heating Circuit 

 

17841/P1433/005171 - Secondary Air Pump Relay (J299): Open Circuit 

Possible Symptoms 

• Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) ON 

Possible Causes 

• Fuse(s) faulty 

• Wiring and/or Connector(s) from/to Secondary Air Pump Relay (J299) faulty 

• Secondary Air Pump Relay (J299) faulty 

Possible Solutions 

• Check Fuse(s) 

• Check Wiring and/or Connector(s) from/to Secondary Air Pump Relay (J299) 

• Check/Replace Secondary Air Pump Relay (J299) 

 

17939/P1531/005425 - Camshaft Timing Adjustment: Open Circuit 

Possible Symptoms 

• Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) ON 

Possible Causes 

• Fuse(s) faulty 

• Wiring and/or Connector(s) from/to Camshaft Adjustment Valve (N205) faulty 

• Camshaft Adjustment Valve (N205) faulty 

Possible Solutions 

• Check Fuse(s) 

• Check Wiring and/or Connector(s) from/to Camshaft Adjustment Valve (N205) 

• Check/Replace Camshaft Adjustment Valve (N205) 

 

17840/P1432/005170 - Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112): Open Circuit 

Possible Causes 

• Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112) faulty 

• Secondary Air Pump Relay (J299) faulty 

Possible Solutions 

• Check Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112) 

• Check Secondary Air Pump Relay (J299) 

 

17965/P1287 – Turbocharger Bypass Valve Open

(Cant find much about this code)

Edited by Decender
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I have just been to see a friend of mine whos a VAG specialist. He's advised me that its likely to be the 409 Fuel Pump relay. Seems to be a common fault looking around the net. Looking at prices though the VAG dealers and TPS want around £70 and have none in stock. although the likes of Euro Car Parts and GSF prices range from a tenner to £54. WTF?

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Ok so I have replaced the Fuel Pump Relay 409. Couldnt get a genuine one local so plumbed for the next best thing from GSF (still £53 mind u). Took the car out for a good old spirited drive and all was well to start with. Then she started playing up again and after a few miles the MIL light also came on.

 

Ive scanned the car again and have the following error:

 

17949 - Fuel Pump Relay (J17): Open Circuit

P1541 - 35-00 - -

 

Also everytime I clear the code the same error comes back. So my question is, is it likely to be a faulty new relay or something else? Getting frustrated with it now.

Edited by Decender
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Also as an addition, this morning i put the original fuel pump relay back in and I know get no error codes but still have the fault.

 

At the moment 3 suggestions spring to mind. Field, lighter and can of petrol. ARRRGGHHH lol

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Also as an addition, this morning i put the original fuel pump relay back in and I know get no error codes but still have the fault.

 

At the moment 3 suggestions spring to mind. Field, lighter and can of petrol. ARRRGGHHH lol

had the same problem but mine was the maf. old maf no fault codes but car would run awful got new maf from ecp and sure enough had a fault code come up and was not much better and even after resetting fault code would show fault again. took car to clive turn's out was sold a crap maf so half an hour later and a new maf from tps car runs like a dream. so what i am saying is even tho you have no error from the pump it doesn't mean it ain't breaking down so if you can get a pump relay from your local tps/skoda go with that and see how it feels otherwise will have to go threw your original fault codes and see if they might be the cause if worth it of course.

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I know what ur saying. £70 for a genuine relay is a lot of wonga to find out it isnt that. Im going to borrow one from a friend this week and see if it cures the issue. If it does then great i'll spend the cash and get a proper one. If not then at least I havent wasted any more money but still wont know what the issue is.

 

Problem with these cars seems to be that theres a million and one things that can all give the same symtoms lol

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I know what ur saying. £70 for a genuine relay is a lot of wonga to find out it isnt that. Im going to borrow one from a friend this week and see if it cures the issue. If it does then great i'll spend the cash and get a proper one. If not then at least I havent wasted any more money but still wont know what the issue is.

 

Problem with these cars seems to be that theres a million and one things that can all give the same symtoms lol

i know what you mean buddy trouble is they our getting a bit old now and of course parts sooner or later will or can get tired but i won't trade mine in for the world getting too attached and find something quicker or as enjoyable as mine will be hard pushed. i do hope you get your car sorted out tho :) 

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Yeh all other codes have cleared. This one though keeps coming back. If I clear the code with the engine running it immediately comes back.

 

what happens if you clear the code without the engine running - just ignition on?.

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what happens if you clear the code without the engine running - just ignition on?.

 

With the new GSF relay fitted if I clear the code without the engine running and then take the car for a run the MIL light comes on and the car runs like crap and as soon as I scan it again the code has reappeared. But now with the OEM relay refitted I get no codes but after a bit of spirited driving the problem reoccurs but still with no code.

 

One thing I will say though is that my car is fitted with a 4 bar fpr which was fitted and mapped in some years ago before my ownership. Yesterday I fitted the original 3 bar back in just as a test (thought why not). With the new relay the car is worse than ever. With the original relay it is better, still not perfect but better.

 

I am starting to think that the fuel pump maybe getting weak. Im going to ask someone to run some logs to check the fueling as im only running VCDS Lite so not sure if I can do that.

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I put a second hand pump in at the time as thats all i could afford and find in a rush. I have no proof but I beleive it had done 70k plus. Now I have heard reports of these pumps failing at all sorts of mileage. Plus I dont think the 4 bar frp would have done it much favors.

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Ok so weirdly with the standard 3bar fpr in its running very heavy on fuel (around 10mpg down on the usual 20 mile trip to work). So I have decided to put the 4 bar back in. One thing I have noticed is that the vacuum pipe coming from the fpr had a split in it and also I had a 16804/P0420 Error in the ECU.

 

I have fixed this now so will see if this improves things at all. It certainly cant make it worse........... :blush:

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  • 1 year later...

Well sorting the vacuum leak hasnt removed the issue. Off to get some logs done this afternoon so hopefully that will reveal more.

What is it that resolved this issue mate?

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