After some long hours of basic servicing like spark plugs filters etc... i went to my friends dyno and checked the performance it was 181 bhp on 100 octane shell fuel. Now the next step. 

 

What should be the starting point in increasing the performance? Possibly ranked from cheapest to most expensive. 

 

For example is the K&H air intake worth the 250 quid? 

 

http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=69-9501TB

 

what else guys would you recommend? I am really looking for around 220bhp for I dont want to keep changing the turbine every 20000 miles :P 

 

Thank in advance  

Remap. Best bang-for-buck.

What was the diffrence in hp you have achieved ? and MPG in that case? 

A good stage 1 map with no other mods will get you 210-220bhp

MPG for normal driving is about the same.

I'm running many mods and about 270bhp and get 32mpg on a long run.

Like Rob said, a remap is your only option for significant gain. Remaps don;t kill engines or anything but they will amplify any weak components you have on older cars. THe difference between a stock and remapped car is night and day though- it's not just the maximum power increase, the power increase is delivered right across the power curves so you end up with a much smoother drive and of course waaaaay more smiles per mile

 

Didn't answer your intake question lol- Zero point spending a couple of hundred pounds on an expensive induction system when the engine is stock. You feel the benefits of cold air induction much more with higher power and at stock a good after market panel filter will give you the same gains (not many) and cost you much much less

Edited 25 February, 201412 yr by Nerd

If it was me I'd get the car handling better first before getting it remapped.No point in having all that extra power and then getting to a corner and it being understeer city.

Edited 25 February, 201412 yr by GAZ911

First thing I fitted was a 24mm adjustable rear ARB. And all things considered, that was a real good investment. Now have a 28mm so if you want it and you can come and pick it up, it's yours.

Right, onto power now; if you want agressive map with loads of torque, get a revo map

If you want power to build and keep on coming until you chicken out, get a decent fMIC and a custom map

With the right map you can make 230 bhp, some dynos will even report 240+bhp

Though the numbers are irrelevant and misleading. It's the total package and the way the power is delivered, that will give you the most for your money.

First thing I fitted was a 24mm adjustable rear ARB. And all things considered, that was a real good investment. Now have a 28mm so if you want it and you can come and pick it up, it's yours.

Right, onto power now; if you want agressive map with loads of torque, get a revo map

If you want power to build and keep on coming until you chicken out, get a decent fMIC and a custom map

With the right map you can make 230 bhp, some dynos will even report 240+bhp

Though the numbers are irrelevant and misleading. It's the total package and the way the power is delivered, that will give you the most for your money.

Is the rear arb available to buy? I'd be very interested in getting my hands on one.

As for the original question, deffo get a decent stage 1 remap, even my old man has his estate vrs revo'd after borrowing my last vrs for a weekend (now back in the vrs club after snapping up my sisters this week! Yay!). High flow panel filter if you want to retain your standard air box will be more than enough but if you crave the blow off sound stick and open cone air filter. After that aftermarket exhaust, sports cat alongside the already mentioned shocks/springs etc. have fun!

If it was me I'd get the car handling better first before getting it remapped.No point in having all that extra power and then getting to a corner and it being understeer city.

 

i think this is the best way to go personally, front and rear arb's, poly bushed, coilovers, s3/TT strut braces, decent tyres etc, then get the stage 1 map, you will be able to put the power down better, even on a standard car with handling mods it will be transformed.

I would go for the remap first. A standard mk1 handles and brakes pretty well for normal road use. Even pretty acceptable on track.

A map would not usually use any additional fuel, the additional torque can actually increase economy. Do it you won't regret it.

Hey there! I need some help again sorry to bother 

 

So I went to the local tuning shop equipped with a dyno and that tuned the car, the good news that stock numbers were 190bhp without any mods... Possibly due to the 100 octane fuel and K&N filter I have put in

 

They took the engine to 218bhp and 319nm of torque, so the diffrence is indeed noticable, however I left for about one week and I noticed that if I havent used the car for time that was sufficient for the engine to cool down the turbine was not working, and all I had to do was shut down the engine and the performance was back. 

 

I came back today and they put back the stock setup and I left the engine cool down for 4 hours and when I took it for a test run the turbine spooled up even on a cool engine. 

 

So I went back today and had them reinstall the tuning and everything was great however I left it cool down for again 4 hours and when I took it for a test run, while the engine was cool I have accelerated and again no tubro whine, and again all i had to do was restart and everything was fine. 

 

The guys at the shop said theya have never had any issues like this and when the program was being installed there werent any errors, they seemed quite professional since they did like 5 dyno runs to make sure all was good. 

 

Has anyone had any similar issues I really need some advice as I am leaving this city, and my only chance is to fix this issue by monday. Thanks in advance !

What map is it, sounds like the car is going into limp mode, it could be due to split pipe causing a vacuum leak, sometime happens when a car is mapped, need to check for vacuum leaks before mapping again

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hey bud, i have a stage 1 on my vrs, and i have similar issues sometimes.

it'll be spooling up nicely when she's all nice and warm, then sometimes i come to a straight and give it the beans (sometimes) then a corner comes up, so obvs i slow down! but then after the corner, i put the boot down again, and there will be no boost at all! but when i release the throttle, the DV will woosh!

so i'm kind of in the same boat! i wouldm't mind hearing what it could possibly be!

Agree with suspect pipework, some garages can do a 'smoke test' to check any leaks in the system.

I would go for the remap first. A standard mk1 handles and brakes pretty well for normal road use. Even pretty acceptable on track.

A map would not usually use any additional fuel, the additional torque can actually increase economy. Do it you won't regret it.

I'm with this.

Great could you please explain what and where are the pipe leaks ? 

Also does anybody know how to remove the wire from the adjuster on a octavia vrs? there is no hole through which to take it out.. 

Breather pipes are prone to splitting, best to change to silicone as the oem 1's corrode iirc

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sorry but whare are these breather pipes? 

It's this one coming from the crankcase, they are known to corrode and split causing boost issues, have you had any fault codes?

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Check your brake lights work correctly as in they light up the moment u touch the pedal

Thank you su much for the pic, whre would you recommend getting the pipes? 

Ebay has loads just search for      auq silicone boost pipes and hoses  or go to creation motorsports web site and search octavia vrs mk1 i got mine direct from creation they are cheap and good qaulity hoses.I bought the full set of boost hoses and breather hoses no boost leaks = 

As well as checking for hose leaks you could be over boosting straight into limp mode... Worth checking out. If in doubt - return to stock and rethink you mapping company... If you change your panel filter - don't over oil it as you'll quickly go through Air Flow Meters...

I just ordered that exact pipe over the weekend as found a split on mine with light coming on. Silicone one £25 delivered from eBay I think volks parts. Similar price to oe so no brainer.