Maybe check out the likes of this one.

 

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/225791-aps-mk2-vrs-thread

 

Very good !! , but I bought an ITG admsion and I would like to know which is the best way to install it :p 

Well someone that knows might tell you if you give them time.

 

I think i would go for the Forge one,  @ £197.12 in the UK.

http://awesomegti.com/car/skoda/fabia2/forge-induction-kit-for-skoda-fabia-1-4-tsi#

Well someone that knows might tell you if you give them time.

 

I think i would go for the Forge one,  @ £197.12 in the UK.

http://awesomegti.com/car/skoda/fabia2/forge-induction-kit-for-skoda-fabia-1-4-tsi#

Looked at both of these today at Awesome, will be going for the forge... Same kind of quality for nearly half the price, no brainer for me.

The Induction Forge have read that it is the worst of all, even worse than the standard on dyno. Many buyers cupra, rs gti or sell , so it is cheap .. .. I'm only interested in settings admission itg

Edited 16 June, 201411 yr by EduVRS

The only way of proving that is to run both back to back on the same car, and in the same environment.

If you look hard enough you will find complaints about every product or service....

What is best for performance and have more amount of cold air?

 

A model :

 

 

B model :

 

 

Only ITG !!

Edited 17 June, 201411 yr by EduVRS

ITG themselves recommend placing the pipe behind the headlight I believe so there you go. That's how I have mine as well and after communication with ITG they have replied it's fine like that.

 

Is your hand a left-hand drive though?

Ok ! , my steering wheel is on the left

I'd go for model A

I run B on mine and all is well.

You will be surprised how little air gets through the slam panel.

You can't even get your hand through it!

Unless you free up more space by moving the battery or getting a smaller one, I'd run B. Running setup A may see you loosing any benefit by connecting to the front slam panel by making the airflow twist sharp right and then left.

Just IMO :-)

Edited 17 June, 201411 yr by Ally_bassman

Ally, true, the more bends along he way and the longer the piping the higher the pressure drop.

BUT, model B (thanks for the great pictures!) sucks hot air from the engine bay where model A doesn't. So, which one to go for as both are not perfect? 

Factory air box has next to no bends in piping...

Just as well there is a Supercharger,

and it gets enough air without requiring a Ram Air Effect.

Fresh cool oxygen is a wonderful thing.

 

Then there is a Turbocharger doing its bit.

 

http://volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_359.pdf

The up to 125 kw version pre CAVE/CTHE

It would be interesting to see how hot the air is behind the headlight where I have mine. The battery will shield from some of the heat and also cool air will be fed in through gaps in the headlights and bumper etc.

Ok ! , my steering wheel is on the left

 

You are going to have an issue with the box hitting the brake reservoir and vibrations sent down to gas and brake pedals, click the link to see the problem:

 

 

The best is to use the stock hose to connect the airbox to the engine as its longer and keeps the box away, just compress a bit more the flexible pipe behind the headlight

 

 

Right-hand side cars don't have the brake reservoir there and don't have this issue (makes sense I guess as it was designed in the UK)

Edited 17 June, 201411 yr by newbie69

Just got home after a 28 mile commute at 26 degrees c ambient temp. Oil temp was an indicated 93 degrees. I popped the hood while the engine was running and stuck my hand where I have the inlet to the ITG just next to the right of the battery. The heat was not too bad but still very warm. But not to far away at the front of battery the heat was immense!

My concern is that air is getting sucked in... I may have to look at option A after all.

Can you hook up some live engine data monitoring app, sth like dash commander from Palmers? This will tell you the intake temps etc

Polar FIS+ ftw

Very sexy way of monitoring intake temps and a million other things.

Is the point not that heat soak will have most effect when in stop start traffic with a warm engine, once you are pulled away and motoring the engine will be sucking air in (as George alludes to, the ram effect isn't required) the area behind the battery is of high pressure (when moving) which means air is being forced into this area from outside the car. At Standstill everything to the left of the battery will heat up very quickly too, if the battery is shieldingthe section to the right from heat at standstill I fancy at 30mph+ it's not a bad place to have the intake.

Or do I have this wrong?

Also my car was dyno'd at about 10bhp more than stock with ITG in their recommended position and no other engine mods, then at over 210bhp Stage 1 with ITG. Not that this means anything as the car may have made those numbers anyway but it is one of the better stage one results I have seen on a CAVE engine.

Well I like to think it still is a good place to have the intake. The battery was definitely shielding some of the heat. My concern is that while cruising along at 30 that hot air is getting pushed round the side of the battery and then sucked up by my lovely ITG.

I wonder if it is worth fabricating a Y split pipe from the slam panel with one pipe going to the entrance of the ITG and one just into the engine bay to aid cooling?

I'd not be worried about engine cooling but getting a cold air intake into ITG is defo worth doing!

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Edited 19 June, 201411 yr by Jabozuma

Volkswagen Built a wonderful design of engine of 1390 cc for keeping its self cool internally with only a oil capacity of 3.6 litres of oil 

producing 132-136 kw and even a bit more.

 

It keeps the coolant pretty near 90 *oC, and gets the Oil up to near that,

then back down near it quite quickly when it goes higher.

You just need to feed it good fuel and good fresh air, and good lubricants.

 

But the engine does produce quite a lot of heat in the Engine Compartment.

& it stays there, especially after the engine has been producing lots of heat in hot ambient temperatures and you stop.

So just checking under bonnet temps is worth doing IMO.

 

But the Engine & Car is built to sell & be driven world wide at all elevations above sea level and in all climates on different fuel octanes and produce a minimum 180 ps.

 

They drive Ok in Australia at 40 *0C Ambient with a Standard Filter Set up or a Upgrade Induction,

Surely they can cope at 30 *oC in the UK on 99 RON petrol.

Absolutely, normal driving, even fast street driving - no need for anything but stock. Planning on tracking your motor then yes, temps become an issue. At Bedford my factory standard car reached 130C oil temps after 10 mins of driving. Brakes overheated so much they were billowing blue/white smoke. 

But, if you do have have ITG/Maxogen installed then give it some cold air feed

Forgive my ignorance but aren't cold air feeds really aimed at n/a cars? I'm not convinced a 10-20 deg difference in air temp pre compressing will make much difference once passed through a turbo. It may have already been said above but wouldn't an intercooler upgrade be a wiser move to reduce charge temps?

A nice free flowing induction system would be good I would have thought, to make the job of forced induction a bit easier, but personally I wouldn't worry too much about the temperature.

Again, just my thoughts... could be wrong.

Yes, I'd agree with that in principle.

Base line temp is important however. If you think about turbo as a system which adds energy to the gas stream the exit temps are dependant on the intake temps so will be say up to 40 degs higher. This 40 C high intake charge temp will have to be cooled back down by the IC so more work for the IC. Another thing is air density and pressure. You want your turbo sucking as high pressure air as possible to reduce the pressure gradient across the turbine - less power needed to spin it. Hot air is less dense than cold. With hot air turbo needs to shift more volume to provide the same amount of oxygen as compared to cold air. Hope it makes some sense 

You are going to have an issue with the box hitting the brake reservoir and vibrations sent down to gas and brake pedals, click the link to see the problem:

The best is to use the stock hose to connect the airbox to the engine as its longer and keeps the box away, just compress a bit more the flexible pipe behind the headlight

Right-hand side cars don't have the brake reservoir there and don't have this issue (makes sense I guess as it was designed in the UK)

thank you very much, you are right, the pedals vibrate me, I will change tomorrow! : D