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Anyone retro fitted a Auto Dim mirror?

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Hi all, I'm one of the unlucky one's who bought an Elegance Superb2 that hasn't got the Auto Dim rear view mirror, I've got the rain and light sensor though.

I've looked into fitting one myself and have found the right mirror and a pre wired plug to make the wiring a bit easier, I'm presuming all I need to do is pick up a switched 12volt feed from around the interior lights, problem seems to be their all permanent feeds for the lights to work on entry and exit,

I was wondering if anyone had retro fitted a mirror and if so where did they get the feed from, did they go all the way back to the fuse box or will it be alright to pick up a switched feed if I can find one?

I did it about 2 years ago or thereabouts.

if your fitting the OEM one it also needs a connection to the headlight switch, otherwise it will dim and become dark in daylight because it will think that daylight is headlights.

 

I used to have a wiring diagram for the OEM Superb2 mirror, just had a look and cannot find it at the moment.

  • Author

if your fitting the OEM one it also needs a connection to the headlight switch, otherwise it will dim and become dark in daylight because it will think that daylight is headlights.

I think you might be mistaken there, theres a sensor on the front facing non-mirror side of the housing that detects if its dark, if it is dark then the mirror side rear facing sensors become active and then can detect any dazzling plights, this is how you test if it's working, cover the front sensor and the daylight show dim the mirror.

Edited by bryanp

Mine has a simple 12v supply routed to the fuse box on the side of the dash. It's switched with the ignition as well. It has a forward facing sensor so only works at night. It's actually a pretty simple mod. The tricky part is getting the wires into the 6 pin plug that goes in the back of the mirror.

Technically, there are supposed to be additional connections to the interior light and reversing light to knock out the dimming for obvious reasons. I didn't consider this worthwhile and it hasn't been a problem since I fitted it.

It looks 100% factory and you'd never know it was retrofitted.

  • Author

Mine has a simple 12v supply routed to the fuse box on the side of the dash. It's switched with the ignition as well. It has a forward facing sensor so only works at night. It's actually a pretty simple mod. The tricky part is getting the wires into the 6 pin plug that goes in the back of the mirror.

Technically, there are supposed to be additional connections to the interior light and reversing light to knock out the dimming for obvious reasons. I didn't consider this worthwhile and it hasn't been a problem since I fitted it.

It looks 100% factory and you'd never know it was retrofitted.

cheers mate, thats more or less what I was thinking, big job is getting the cable to the fuse, don't suppose you can remember which fuse you used, how you got into it and connected it? As for connecting to the mirror I managed to get a pre wired plug of ebay, has got the poss ang neg cable in pin 1 + 2 and also a cable in pin 3 which I beleive is the reverse signal cable, which like you I'm not planning on using,

When the car is back from the body shop on Monday I'll get a picture of what I did with the fuse box wiring. I used a piggy back fuse to prevent messing with the wiring behind the fuse board itself. 'Add-a-fuse' will yield results in an ebay search.

I ran the cable along the top of the roof lining and down behind the A pillar (being careful not to impede operation of the airbag that's hidden within). The fuse was very low rated for obvious reasons and I think it was the same fuse a factory fitted mirror would be wired to anyway.

I might have the wiring diagram somewhere too. I've got the full 3T0 wiring schematics somewhere........

I'm glad you got a pre wired connector though, that bit was a complete pain in the ass!

When the car is back from the body shop on Monday I'll get a picture of what I did with the fuse box wiring. I used a piggy back fuse to prevent messing with the wiring behind the fuse board itself. 'Add-a-fuse' will yield results in an ebay search.

I ran the cable along the top of the roof lining and down behind the A pillar (being careful not to impede operation of the airbag that's hidden within). The fuse was very low rated for obvious reasons and I think it was the same fuse a factory fitted mirror would be wired to anyway.

I might have the wiring diagram somewhere too. I've got the full 3T0 wiring schematics somewhere........

I'm glad you got a pre wired connector though, that bit was a complete pain in the ass!

Cheers again, just found on ebay a repair wire kit (below) that plugs into the back of the fuse board so the correct fuse position can be used, I believe it's a 5amp fuse thats needed also, sorry about all the questions, hopefully last one but did you pick up the negative up from behind the headlining or run one down to next to the fuse board?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-MK2-Golf-GTI-CE2-1990-Loom-Wire-Plugs-Repair-Set-60Cm-Wire-2-Clips-/271069692380?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f1d0341dc

I ran everything down to the fuse box and made a good ground connection onto the chassis via one of the bolts in the locality of the fuse box with a suitably sized ring crimp. I ran 2 single cables to keep size to a minimum.

6 amp fuse sounds about right.

  • Author

Did you run the cable down the drivers side A pillar, just pulled the trim of and theres only the air bag, the wiring loom for the interior lights and rair sensor must run down the passenger side A pillar, found a neutral stud behind the side trim next to the accelerator pedal so will be using that.

Yep, down the a pillar and straight into the back on the fuse box.

I think I used one of the torx bolts that holds the fuse board in place, slipped the ring crimp between the back of the plastic block and the captive nut. Either way, as long as it's a grounded connection it's all good.

I received that mirror from Raleri and had to send it back due to spots on it. They were all apologies and are sending another one (which they've checked and is fine). A minor hiccup but all should be well when its fitted.

 

Cheers,

 

Rob

Yep, down the a pillar and straight into the back on the fuse box.

I think I used one of the torx bolts that holds the fuse board in place, slipped the ring crimp between the back of the plastic block and the captive nut. Either way, as long as it's a grounded connection it's all good.

Picking your brains again mate to get it right so last question hopefully, what did you use to attach the cable to the A pillar, I've got some small self adhesive cable tie bases and was going to use those but just a bit worried if they come off with it being near the air bag, did you use something that would be more secure as on the pictures i've seen on the net they look like there secured with special clips? Cheers again mate.

I used self adhesive cable tie bases. I made sure they were decent 3M bases and used IPA prior to sticking them. They stick like concrete and I'm confident they won't come loose. Might be worth popping the a pillar trim off every now and then to check they are still secure though.

The cables are run pretty taut down the a pillar so even if the bases unstick, there isn't much chance of the cable getting in front of the airbag. It's also worth checking for any potential rattles, if the cable is loose near any hard surfaces, wrap some foam around it.

  • Author

I used self adhesive cable tie bases. I made sure they were decent 3M bases and used IPA prior to sticking them. They stick like concrete and I'm confident they won't come loose. Might be worth popping the a pillar trim off every now and then to check they are still secure though.

The cables are run pretty taut down the a pillar so even if the bases unstick, there isn't much chance of the cable getting in front of the airbag. It's also worth checking for any potential rattles, if the cable is loose near any hard surfaces, wrap some foam around it.

cheers mate, think I've got all the info I need, just need mirror and fuse box cable to arrive, looking forward to the results, had one on my Superb1 and thought it was great, really surprised and gutted when I realised my Superb2 did have one!

My last 2 Octavias had them but unfortunately I knew the Superb didn't.

Mine is an ex demo as I couldn't wait x months for a car, there weren't any cars available with a dimming mirror already fitted.

My hire car doesn't have one and it's sorely missed.

SUK have seen sense and fitted one as standard on the FL.

  • Author

cheers mate, think I've got all the info I need, just need mirror and fuse box cable to arrive, looking forward to the results, had one on my Superb1 and thought it was great, really surprised and gutted when I realised my Superb2 did "not" have one!

  • 2 weeks later...

Has anyone added the dimming exterior mirrors? The L&K had them apparently, but even though I paid the extra to have the interior one fitted, the exteriors don't do it. I'd love to do it if there was any chance the wiring was already there.

I believe you have to run wires (dimming output signal) from the rear view mirror down to the door controllers and on to the mirrors themselves. Technically possible but quite involved. That's if the door controllers support dimming mirrors in the first place.

  • Author

I believe you have to run wires (dimming output signal) from the rear view mirror down to the door controllers and on to the mirrors themselves. Technically possible but quite involved. That's if the door controllers support dimming mirrors in the first place.

Bang on right mate, there are 6 pins in the mirror connecting plug, I beleive the connections are as follows :- pin 1=12v+, 2=12v-, 3=to CECM (central electric control module)to prevent diming in reverse, 4 and 5=outputs to the door mirrors, 6 goes to the blue plug in the over head console to prevent diming when interior lights are on,

 

You might find the following link helpfull

 

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/rain-light-sensor-retrofit-and-installation-vw-diy/

OK. Thanks. It looks like its not worth it unless the wires are there already.

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