Skoda Felicia 1.3 from 1999 do not start

[RicardoM]

Ok, it's good so far. Well, except blowing the fuse of the multimeter. Insert = in series, not in parallel with battery.

 

Minimum voltage on battery for immo adapt procedure is 11.5V. Passed.

Note: a lower voltage can't erase/write EEPROM.

Maximum current on standby is 25mA (0.025A) Passed

Note: I wanted to be sure there is no abnormal current consumption that could indicate a hidden failure of immo. Initial inrush current is normal (powering ECU, immo, radio, central locking if any, etc)

Adaptation procedure Failed

Note: we have to decide if it is a wiring problem, an adaptation procedure problem, or an immo EEPROM problem.

 

Now let's concentrate on wiring.

First I want you to replace the following 3 fuses with spare good ones: S1-red, S4-blue, S20-blue.

TeflonTom made earlier a very important observation, check the double connector (6-pin and 3-pin) behind charcoal cannister (see photo). For instance pin 1 of 3-pin connector (gray-in green out) connects immo to ECU while pins 1, 4, 5 of 6-pin connector carry supply voltage to and from ECU and to fuel pump relay.

That is why I want you do double check those connectors, disconnect, tug slightly on each wire, assess corrosion/burns, soak in WD40, wipe excess, reconnect.

Now disconnect battery minus cable and let's go to relay panel again. I want you to reseat every coloured connector in the back (disconnect, assess corrosion/burns, WD40, reconnect). There is a lever you need to slide to the left first to unlock all connectors (see photo). Then squeeze vertically each connector and pull.

Lock connectors, close relay panel, reconnect battery minus cable.

 

Let's repeat the adaptation procedure as follows:

- Ignition key on

- Read out error memory

- Erase error memory

- Ignition key off

- Ignition key on, wait at least 10 seconds

- Read out error memory

- Erase error memory

- Adapt ignition key(s) to immo

- Adapt immo to ECU

- Ignition key off

- Ignition key on, wait at least 10 seconds, start the engine

 

If the engine still not starting, buy a new immo.

Edited 12 January, 2015 by RicardoM

[fusan]

I did run through most of the list you made Ricardo, but still no cigar. What I dont really understand is what fuses is it that you want me to replace? Were are those fuses?

 

I removed, measured the amp in every connector of the Box in the picture.

 

I took this picture: http://imgur.com/ULAg36L of some other wiring (filled with corrosion) close to the Double connector. Can this have some influence on anything?

 

The Immobox has been removed and my brother is checking the EEPROM in it, propobly to reaplace it. Hes asking for a Schemantic. Is this available anywere? Does anyone have a link?

Edited 15 January, 2015 by fusan

[RicardoM]

I did run through most of the list you made Ricardo, but still no cigar. What I dont really understand is what fuses is it that you want me to replace? Were are those fuses?

I was obviously referring to the panel with relays and fuses located below the glovebox, under the dash.

 

The Immobox has been removed and my brother is checking the EEPROM in it, propobly to reaplace it. Hes asking for a Schemantic. Is this available anywere? Does anyone have a link?

I don't think that Siemens was so kind to release the schematic of a security device, but I stand to be corrected.

 

I took this picture: http://imgur.com/ULAg36L of some other wiring (filled with corrosion) close to the Double connector. Can this have some influence on anything?

That connector is for the headlights washer.

[fusan]

Ricardo, ths for the answers.

You mention to buy a new Immo, but I got the impression that tha ECU, Immo and Key had to be "Synched" togeter. So if I get en new/SH Immo, how do I make it work with the ECU and Key? I dont have VAG-Tacho to obtain the SKC.

Edited 15 January, 2015 by fusan

[RicardoM]

So if I get en new/SH Immo, how do I make it work with the ECU and Key? I dont have VAG-Tacho to obtain the SKC.

I might have a solution to that. Stay tuned.

Did you fill the rest of the steps from my diagnosis plan? The cleaning of 2 sockets behind charcoal canister, the 3 fuses replacement and connectors reseating in relay/fuse panel area and the new adaptation process? Be methodical. You don't want buying new parts and fail because of a hidden wiring issue.

[fusan]

I replaced the 3 fuses (1, 4, 20) with new ones

Disassembled the Socets, soaked in with WD40, reassembled it

Tried your adaption method

 

All without success.

[RicardoM]

All without success.

The bright side is that you know now the wiring is solid and that you did a proper diagnosis.

The options you have are:

1) bypass the immobilizer (maybe somebody will tell you what to do on PM)

2) buy new immobilizer

[fusan]

I would still have to know how to adept the new Immobilizer without the SKC, so I hope someone can PM me about how to

bypass the Immobilizer because its the last chance to get this car running.

[RicardoM]

There is Immo Universal Decoding v3.2 available but I am not sure if it works with VAG-COM adapter.

[fusan]

Ive been down to try our method one more time. What I found is that the first key is not present like it was the first time/breakdown.

I took a screendump: http://imgur.com/gjRsAKi Compared to the first breakdown when it looked like this:  http://imgur.com/0i6FQYo

Why is it different this time?

 

Another thing that I wonder about (that you mention in your method that I must have missed with my first attempt) is how/were do you

adept the Immobilizer to the ECU?

 

I tried to get Immo Universal Decoding v3.2, but I couldnt find anywere to buy or download it. Anyone have a link?

Edited 19 January, 2015 by fusan

[RicardoM]

Why is it different this time?

They are the same. In the second capture you didn't display Group 000, but displayed Group 001 twice.

 

Another thing that I wonder about (that you mention in your method that I must have missed with my first attempt) is how/were do you

adept the Immobilizer to the ECU?

See pinned topics in Diagnostics & VCDS section

See also Ross-Tech wiki on immobilizers

Edited 19 January, 2015 by RicardoM

[fusan]

I have been reading the Ross-Tech wiki: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Immobilizer_I_ECU_Swapping but I do not know the SKC/PIN.

Is it possible to adept the immobilizer without the SKC/PIN?

[fusan]

So some time has passed and I have been struggling with the car.

I figured that since everything else was working, RicardoM must be right in that the EEPROM in the ECU was fautly since I couldnt write to it.

I bought a new EEPROM and found a program (Willar) to read the old one after it was removed from the ECU. After reading the original EEPROM I wrote the content to the new EEPROM through Willar and soldered it back on to the ECU.

After removing the errormessages from the ECU with VAG-COM, the car started the first time and has been running since.

Edited 12 February, 2015 by fusan

[uma1998]

Just get immobiliser box and Matched chips and try as when engine blocked by imoblizer is what it says... and then pair that to your ecu if you was in UK I have a cupple kicking around... sounds like your problems with immobiliser is your window screen leaking water ingress

[RicardoM]

Just get immobiliser box and Matched chips and try as when engine blocked by imoblizer is what it says... and then pair that to your ecu if you was in UK I have a cupple kicking around... sounds like your problems with immobiliser is your window screen leaking water ingress

It must be my atrocious English or maybe because I am retarded, but I don't understand at all where to start reading your message or in what order should I read the words. Just in case you wanted to sell him something or imply it's all because his windscreen is leaking, he has already solved his problem (very well I might add.) and he was kind enough to close his topic by giving us an update with all relevant information.