How hard is it to remove power steering pump and fit a new as I'm considering scrapping my vrs less than two weeks after getting it cause off all the problems I'm having with it any help greatly appreciated

The only help I can offer is to send you a cheap second hand pump that wasn't leaking.  Easy for me to remove as the engine is sat on the ground.....

 

I would think with front bumper off and car in the air it shouldn't be "too tough" to remove.  It's on the front lowest point.

How much would you like for the pump and I looked earlier and can see the bottom 2 bolts but couldn't see what is at the top because of the air con pump

Not sure - tenner plus postage of about the same?   Pump is still attached to my engine, so in theory could also provide a little guide on how it came off.

How would you want payment and any pics would be very usefull as I say I can see the bottom but not the top

I can't remove it until Monday night, but I shall try and get pics along the way.  Don't usually like holding my phone with oily hands though....

Ha ha I know where your coming from I've got power steering fluid in my speaker on mine it was funny at first wen the misses rang from the house phone getting stressed at me for letting my dinner get and sounded all weird but the novelty has worn thin now. I'm unsure how I can you for this pump as I hate computers and don't have a pay pal acount set up as it was doing my head in asking for codes from the bank

Sorry I ment to say pay you for the pump

Know what you mean.  There's other means.  I'll PM you when I have got it off and taken some snaps.

Thank you appreciate it

Where are you ??

Northamptonshire mate

the pump iis really easy to get off, held on by 3 bolts which you will need a 13mm spanner for, you also need to remove the pulley from the pump to get to one of the bolts which is either a 5mm or 6mm allen key from memory, also you will need a 16mm spanner to release the tensioner so you can slip the belt off too, make sure you use new o rings on the banjo bolt fiittings too, from memory its a 22mm bolt which is easiest to undo if drop the pump off its mountings first

Are all 3 bolts accessible from under Neath and will I need puller or anything to remove the pulley thanks for all the advice I've bin having a nightmare with this car so far and am determined to be able to enjoy driving my first skoda

yes they are...Don;t need anything to remove the pulley

Undo the pulley bolts before you take the aux belt off, the belt holds the pulley still and makes it a lot easier.

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You lot on here never fail to give great advice to a skoda beginner thank you all and ile crack on with the the replacement and let u know how it goes thanks:)

If the pump us tight in it's bracket use a large flat blade screwdriver As a lever to help it out, they normally cone out easy though. also it is possible to insert the same screwdriver through a slot in the pulley and hold it against the pump so you can hold the pulley still while undoing the bolts.

Right - all removed and for me (probably thanks to the engine being sat on my drive) easy as well!

 

Essentially tools you need are

 

ratchet driven allen set / allen key.  Think it was 5mm or 6mm for the pulley wheel

Screwdriver to potentially jam pulley wheel

13mm socket / ratchet / spanner

In my case, some WD40 and gentle use of hammer.

 

What you are faced with.  Pulley wheel for PAS

 

 

So I attacked this by inserting screwdriver through hole to get purchase on bolts.  Those 3 Allen bolts were not overly tight to be fair

 

 

WD40 and gentle tapping round the wheel with a hammer soon had the wheel off the mount.  If I was refitting I would probably emery cloth up area for smooth re-fit

 

 

Now left with this, and 3 13mm bolts which were not too tight.  I used regular ratchet with small extension and 13mm bit

 

 

Bolts coming out

 

 

Ah, look at you little sneaky one behind the SAI unit!  Another slightly stiffer 13mm bolt

 

 

Finally all parts off (pump just wiggled out once that last bolt out) with all the tools.

 

Get in touch if you want take up my offer of all this lot for a tenner plus P&P.     (excluding tools )

 

That's a massive help thanks a lot and yes I still want so if we can work a way for me to pay for it that would be great. I've bin speaking to some work colleagues today and thy suspect it's the steering rack itself causing the problem but it's a process of elimination so going to do pump and try and sorce a pressure valve or what ever that thing is that bolts on top of the pressure pipe banjo and then look at finding a replacement rack if needed!

Just too add something if it is the rack that's at fault is it worth going for a quick rack upgrade Audi tt or r32 if so how much work/ cost am I likely to incure and will it mess with the parameters or coding causing fault codes or the dreaded dash lights :(

I think the TT rack is an upgrade but I can sort you with a direct oem replacement.

On your dash buttons near the rear window, does it say esp or esr?, I seem to remember someone saying this makes a difference to the upgrade - Bowders1 or rwbaldwin are probably best sources of info on this to be honest.

Do you mean ASR?  And I assume you mean rear window demister button?  Not the actual rear window?

Sorry, yes - ASR, but ESP - stability control was an option on the VRS, and replaces the ASR button, the rack uses a steering angle sensor I believe, which causes an issue if the TT rack is used. I was trying to find the post that I read a while back but haven't found it yet - will link it when I do.