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Jacking up car with hockey puck

philbes
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philbes Proficient

philbes

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I'm confused.  I need to jack up my Octavia vRS FL car to swap the winter wheels/tyres for my summer set.

 

The jack (widow maker!) supplied with the car has a platform consisting of a front and rear portion separated by a slot.  The rear portion is higher than the front and 32mm high from bottom of the slot.  This jack is intended to locate against the metal work 'behind' the sill without contacting the seam of the sill.

 

I have purchased a 2-ton trolley jack and, as recommended on this forum, a hockey puck.  On my car from the 'lifting platform' behind the sill to the end of the sill seam is 26mm at the rear and 24mm at the front.  However, the hockey puck is only 24mm thick so I cannot cut a slot deep enough to accommodate the sill and allow the puck to contact the 'lifting platform' behind the sill.

 

What am I not understanding, as many of you seem to use this method to lift your cars?

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silver1011
silver1011

Just one hockey puck here too. The puck is rubber so it moulds to the shape of the sill with the weight of the car on it. No need to spread the weight between the outer and inner edge of the sills per

philbes
philbes

On my car the area on which the standard jack head sits behind the sill seam is higher than the sill in front of the seam.  If I use a 25mm thick puck with (say) a 15mm deep slot and a flat top then t

silver1011
silver1011

You missed my point. The hockey puck does the job of the wood without the hassle.

philbes Proficient

philbes

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I cut a couple of supports out of an off-cut of Oak to the same dimensions as the OEM jack.

This sounds to be the answer - thanks.  I don't understand how a slot in a hockey puck can work!!!

 

You can buy one from eBay already routed out

I had mine done with a milling machine at work

How deep was the slot and was the top of the puck left flat?

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philbes Proficient

philbes

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I locate the whole puck behind the sill, there is a 2 inch square ribbed are which seems to provide enough strength for this when the weight is spread by the puck.

The area around the indicated jacking point on my car is partially obscured by a plastic cover so I would have to cut down the puck to reduce its size.

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philbes Proficient

philbes

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An alternative would be the Audi supports, there's a thread somewhere on here about them going OK on an Octavia.

 

One question about them -- if fitted, can they be removed to go onto a different car, or are they then a permanent fixture?

 

Cheers

 

Mike

 

EDIT Found the thread:

 

www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/221240-fitting-s3-jack-pads-to-octavia/?hl=%2Baudi+%2Bs3+%2Bjacking

Yes, I did know about the Audi jacking points.  Yes, they can be removed, but not that easy to do.  Isn't there some doubt whether they are suitable for single point lifting as they are designed to be used with 4-point lifting arms to spread the weight of the car over all 4 jacking points at once?

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seve88 Enthusiast

seve88

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I'm confused.  I need to jack up my Octavia vRS FL car to swap the winter wheels/tyres for my summer set.

 

The jack (widow maker!) supplied with the car has a platform consisting of a front and rear portion separated by a slot.  The rear portion is higher than the front and 32mm high from bottom of the slot.  This jack is intended to locate against the metal work 'behind' the sill without contacting the seam of the sill.

 

I have purchased a 2-ton trolley jack and, as recommended on this forum, a hockey puck.  On my car from the 'lifting platform' behind the sill to the end of the sill seam is 26mm at the rear and 24mm at the front.  However, the hockey puck is only 24mm thick so I cannot cut a slot deep enough to accommodate the sill and allow the puck to contact the 'lifting platform' behind the sill.

 

What am I not understanding, as many of you seem to use this method to lift your cars?

i know where your coming from here.

this is what i done,

buy 2 hockey pucks, cut a slot out of the first one, say 10mm deep, then cut the other one in half

next trim a bit of off the cut edge of both halves

then araldite both halves onto the slotted puck

you've now got the required depth.

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nickguzzi Experienced

nickguzzi

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Or get some ply out of your stash at the back of your shed and make your own. Takes less time than faffing about on ebay. You can also customise it to fit your trolley jack for no extra effort.

If you can't do this sort of thing, should you be jacking up a car at all?

ps don't use chipboard or mdf

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philbes Proficient

philbes

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i know where your coming from here.

this is what i done,

buy 2 hockey pucks, cut a slot out of the first one, say 10mm deep, then cut the other one in half

next trim a bit of off the cut edge of both halves

then araldite both halves onto the slotted puck

you've now got the required depth.

I did buy 2 pucks and so your solution had occurred to me.  As I have already cut a slot in one I shall cut the other into two parts and glue to top of the 'slotted' puck.

 

I still don't understand how other people lift the car using just one puck.

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philbes Proficient

philbes

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Unless that pad is at least 50mm thick the slot won't be deep enough to use on my car.

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philbes Proficient

philbes

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Or get some ply out of your stash at the back of your shed and make your own. Takes less time than faffing about on ebay. You can also customise it to fit your trolley jack for no extra effort.

If you can't do this sort of thing, should you be jacking up a car at all?

ps don't use chipboard or mdf

Thanks for your suggestion although I find the slightly derogatory tone unnecessary.

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Stuarted Rising Star

Stuarted

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Hmm, personally I wouldn't want to use something that's held together with araldite when lifting the weight of a car.

 

Mike

.

Why not?  It is under compression.  What's going to happen to it?

Probably better than using plywood which might split.

And I'm not sure that the depth of the slot matters - I would have thought that the seam edge would be strong enough to take the weight anyway, provided the slot was deep enough to ensure that the pad was located securely and spread the load along the seam a bit.

 

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philbes Proficient

philbes

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Yeah, I was wondering what the difference is which makes it okay on one car and not another?

On my car the area on which the standard jack head sits behind the sill seam is higher than the sill in front of the seam.  If I use a 25mm thick puck with (say) a 15mm deep slot and a flat top then the puck does not lie flat but tilts so that only an edge is contacting the area meant to be used by the jack.

 

If you look at the head of the standard jack it consists of two platforms, at different heights and separated by a deep slot.  The higher platform contacts the area meant to be used to lift the car, the slot clears the seam but is close enough to locate the jack and the lower front platform is clear of the part of the sill 'outside' of the seam.

 

I have now glued two pucks together and shaped the top one to emulate the profile of the standard jack.  This works perfectly - stays level, sits only on the correct jacking area and locates around the sill seam (with slight clearance).  For a belt and braces approach I could have added a couple of screws through the lower puck into the top puck.  However,  I have arranged for a local engineering company to make me an aluminium version (with a rubber coating on the platforms and slot) as a more permanent solution for use with my trolley jack and a similar device with an underneath flange that will locate in the slot of the scissors jack that I will keep in the car.  We may combine the two devices into one by having a milled and tapped slot on the bottom to allow the flange to be removed fro use with the trolley jack.  I'll just have to make sure the aluminium lifting pad is kept in the car boot!

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philbes Proficient

philbes

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Now that's a nice idea. How much is that costing to have made? Do we see a Briskoda group buy coming our way? It may well be something that a lot of members would be very interested in.

 

Mike

Cost is zero.  An old customer of mine doing me a favour.  Provided I do a decent drawing and he has a bit of suitable material one of the apprentices will make it for me.  Will probably be totally over-engineered but that's hardly a fault.

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