What a bloody job. Last thing I was expecting to need was a 21mm swan neck spanner and a 7mm Allen key! Who the hell has a 7mm Allen key lying around?! Lol not to mention a 21mm spanner! They just seem like really odd, not readily available sizes.

On a plus side though the hub spreading tool was a god send although I still found it a pig to get the struts out.

Has anyone got any tips for future reference? (I also haven't quite finished mine yet :-) ).

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7mm is a really common size on vag group cars, the brake calipers use a 7mm hex key too.

I went out and specially bought a 7mm Allen key then discovered my cheapo Halfords socket set included a 7mm hex drive socket...

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...and Campagnolo self-extracting crank retention bolts!

Nearly all my previous cars have all been french so I wasn't particularly well prepared even though I do have a good array of tools. Thankfully themail Mrs works at halfords so the 25% discount came in handy.

I ended up making a tool out of a spark plug wrench and some mole grips to undo the strut top nut but because it wasn't particularly robust I had to loosen the nut on the car. Only problem by doing this is it effectively made the strut longer and harder to get out. I've tried getting the spring compressors in but it was still difficult. Can anyone give me some tips please?

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Undo the 3x 13mm bolts on the bottom of the track control arm that hold the ball joint in, then slide the balljoint plate out the end, gives you a bit more clearance to play with.. From memory it's only one side which is difficult to get out and I want to say passenger side off the top of my head due to the short driveshaft, the other easier side falls out just like that..

As above. N/S is normally the more of a pain. 

 

Also split the trackrod. Give yourself more room. 

 

In all honestly its not a difficult job once you've done it a few times. 

Cheers guys. I've actually done the near side so hopefully tomorrow will be easier. It isn't a difficult job your right. Im definitely glad I didn't pay someone to do it.

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To be honest most budget spanner and bit sets cover everything you'd need above and beyond those sizes. My gut reaction is to drop the wishbone by undoing the ball joint top nut, I'd suggest a ball joint separator rather than a fork to avoid damaging the boot but I'd rather fight one large nut than pick a fight with the three smaller lower nuts, it's only an extra M14 NZT bolt to drop the whole hub assembly, but pop the TRE first. After that it's easy enough to get the whole spring/strut out and work on it on the bench.

Drivers side is the one that is trickier.

The drivers side is the pig to get the strut out, due to the fact that its the long driveshaft on that side that stops the hub dropping far enough, hence having to compress the springs within the arch.

 

The passenger side is much easier by comparison.

 

Good idea whilst the suspension leg is out of the way is to remove the arch liner and give everything a good scrub behind, gives you chance to clean the scuttle drain holes out as well, plus check all the boost pipes on the drivers side as well.

I found both sides really easy. I done mine about 4 weeks ago. I used the hub tool as well. I put the spring compressors on while the spring were still on the car and compressed them and just lifted the strut out. I can't remember how long it took me but me and my mate also did a Passat and as Astra at the same time and we were under 4 hours for all 3 cars. The Fabia and Passat were all round, the Astra was fronts only.

I did my Golf Mk4 last year, fitted coilies for the first time. Easy enoug, except for the spreader tool not quite moving the leg open enough, to be able to get the leg out. Ended up being done in the dark on the driveway, torch in mouth and using a 5p coin wedged between the spreader tool and the gap. Trickiest thing I've ever done, but it worked!

Looks like it'll be another job to do this summer

Are most folks using the laser spring compressors that are readily available at Halfords?

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Mine were from ebay. It's just easier to compress whilst on the car, using a secondary Jack to push up the ball joint whilst the car is on axle stands. Then fix the compressors in place opposite each other. Drop the Jack slowly, tap the hub until the leg is swinging free and it's out.

I'm just about to go and have round two with the car so thanks for the advice chaps!

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Are most folks using the laser spring compressors that are readily available at Halfords?

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I use them. Never had a problem with them. And I've always found the drivers side to be a absolute pig.

All done chaps, car drives so much better. Learnt a lot ready for next time! :-) thanks to all for the advice and pointers!

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Good Work! Glad you didn't let it beat you.

All done chaps, car drives so much better. Learnt a lot ready for next time! :-) thanks to all for the advice and pointers!

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well done, nice feeling when it all goes to plan

Will feel even better once the springs have settled in and you get it tracked properly

The drivers side is the pig to get the strut out, due to the fact that its the long driveshaft on that side that stops the hub dropping far enough, hence having to compress the springs within the arch.

 

The passenger side is much easier by comparison.

 

Good idea whilst the suspension leg is out of the way is to remove the arch liner and give everything a good scrub behind, gives you chance to clean the scuttle drain holes out as well, plus check all the boost pipes on the drivers side as well.

OCD bufty homo

Yes had to replace a track rod end as well, the allen key hole was mullered will be getting the tracking done ASAP.

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And here it is in all its glory 30mm ish lower

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What springs you on?

Eibach pro?

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