i bought a skoda fabia 1.4mpi 8v 2000 about a week ago and since had the car its played up. had to change the alternator it worked fine for a few days now its gone again wount tick over it starts then dies. 

 

ive run a diagnostic machine on there and it come up with a few faults - 

 

- p0101 maf or vaf a circuit range/performance

 

-p0606 pcm processor fault

 

-p0171 system too lean bank 1

 

what would you suggest to get the car running again so can get it to the garage to be put on a diagnostic machine ?

 

 

many thanks 

 

Check battery/alternator type are the same on old/new unit and belt tension/condition. Note the codes, clear them and see what it comes back at you with.

Edited 21 April, 201412 yr by Avalon

Reset the ECU to base settings by leaving the battery disconnected overnight and try and start it, if no good then disconnect the MAF and try, if still no good then you have a more serious problem.

MPIs don't have a MAF.

does it idle badly? 

have a look at fuel trim on your diagnostic live data if you can... any double figures i.e 15.50 +or- could indicate a vacuum leak. 

does it idle badly? 

 

All MPIs tend to idle badly. It's a trait on them. I suppose it's a case of knowing how badly is normal. lol

- p0101 maf or vaf a circuit range/performance

 

 

MPIs don't have a MAF.

 

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16485/P0101/000257

 

Then what is going on?

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16485/P0101/000257

 

Then what is going on?

 

No idea but I assure you MPIs only have a MAP sensor.

Hmm, maybe the PCM has lost the plot and forgotten which engine it's trying to run.

This thread might help: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/154822-2002-fabia-14mpi-maf/

Ah, loathsome ebay code reader alert.

got car running half decent yesterday then the battery died on me so waiting for a new alternator and going change the timing belt at the same time then sort any faults remaining 

I think I paid £8 last time I changed the belt on my mpi but it was a Continental belt iirc rather than oe. The original one was 12 years old and well past it's best with age related cracking (car had only done 24k), key is to get the tension right but it's a 2 min job, it may be worth digging out a multi-meter and see what's what.

 

As to the idle yes they are all quite lumpy on idle, you can improve it by increasing the air flow as apparently it was limited in order to meet emissions reg's at idle. IIRC Chris and Tech1e both did this with either a CAI/Cone filter or larger intake to stock air box with positive results.

Edited 23 April, 201412 yr by Avalon

We'll alternator changed doing it's job now charging battery, it's going have go to the. Garage as I don't have a clue anymore, checked the sparks given a clean, init car stalls in 1st or second if let it drop bellow 2000rpms I think maybe to do with air and fuel mix, going have that looked at if nothing having a new air filter instead off panel

Had the battery tested yet? (normally free) http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/103114-engine-warning-light-ecmpcm-processor/ suggests replacing the battery worked for someone else. http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/184620-16555-fuel-trim-bank-1-system-too-lean/ suggests a vac hose leak and the MAP sensor has been diagnosed already. I'd really suggest getting the battery checked before you go any further as if they are knackered they can throw up all sorts of random stuff.