So they have come up with Spark plugs Breaking down and I should upgrade, yet I already use NGK Iridium sparks, anyone got suggestions on better sparks ?

AP Automotive had the best advice, do the diagnostics first - take the plugs out and post the best photographs taken under natural light you can. Please try to get a photo of the whole lenght of the ceramic insulator, difficult as it mostly sits within the cavity for better description.

 

While you are taking the plugs out you can do the compression test as well.

 

When you get the photos posted we could help you to diagnose the problem. My guess is that plugs are fouled, running white hot because of it and burning out very quickly. Solution is to have plugs which run hotter so they can burn off the deposits. Twinchargers run very rich over 5k rpm so if you blast it to redline just once and do not keep doing it to get the engine hot enough to burn off the deposits the plugs will be fouled. Or simply wrong plugs fitted, wrong gap or electrical system not supplying enough juice to produce high energy spark to facilitate the combustion. Have you checked your main earthing lead?

As for the fuel, theoretically higher octane fuel is more difficult to ignite than lower octane one. That's why it is used in racing applications with high compression ratios/high temp running motors (twinchargers) to prevent detonation. I am no chemist but I do not think mixing 95 and 99 gives 97 . 97, 98,99 are basically the same fuels and RON number is not really what we should be looking at, MON is much more relevant http://thoms1.net/Ford/Reference/RONMONPON.html - quick find. 

I remember, and it is still available in Germany, RON 91 fuel - if you want to kill your cat virtually instantly use RON 91 .

I would get 'DENSO'  plugs.    IMO they are well worth the money.  SKJ20CR-A8#4  (3371#4)  

CHECK YOURSELF THAT THESE ARE THE CORRECT ONES FOR YOUR ENGINE.

 

**Be sure to buy from a trusted Supplier or Vendor, lots of dodgy plugs and other car parts being sold.**

 

The OEM Plugs are not suitable as far as i am concerned.

**But if your car is Under Manufacturers Warranty, you had best check what is OK to fit.**

 

Anyone with a Tuning box or a Remap really should not use the Standard plugs.

but that is just a personal opinion based on seeing how quickly a plug can break down.

 

 

The Spark Plug can burn out and break down like the OEM very quickly. 

& you may have Misfires without these Registering, or any Error Codes showing.

When a plug shorts, you can have an Ignition Coil Fail as well.

I don't use the Standard plug I use NGK BKR7EIX but just wondered if people recommend better ? ill look up these DENSO plug, my Engine is the CAVE not the CTHE if that makes any difference what so ever in what plugs to use.

 

And Jabozuma If I can I will get some pics of my sparks when I get them changed.

 

is the recommended gap size 0.065mm ?

I know it is a CAVE, because nobody has a Remap for the CTHE ECU.

 

I suspect the Remap you have, if it is the same as a REVO Stage 1.

Why not try the latest Skoda/VW ECU update on your car?

 

You might find that with new Plugs it will perform better than the Stage 1 Map you have installed.

I do not remember the gap. The bigger the gap the better ignition provided you upgraded your ignition system to cope. If you gap too wide on standard it will misfire top range but will be good low rev range. Gap narrower and it will be the other way round. Please do the photos. Look at Dave's (sharkrider) plugs photo from the thread George (goneoffSKI) linked to, they are absolutely perfect, he could even run a little bit more fuel and he'd still stay OK for combustion conditions. 

 

George, photos are a tad out of focus but from what I can see the left plug looks eaten away to me and they are both heavily fouled - running to cold, burning oil and/or overfuelling?

My photos are always out of focus.

(its that lube i use for the cameras other usage.)

 

I am not advising on plug gaps,

I know them, but the Plugs come Pre-Set, i check them but can not and do not adjust them.

 

Cars like Sharkriders CAVE have had plugs last towards Skoda/VW's service schedule of 40,000 miles.

& others have plugs fail at half that,

The Earliest i have seen a plug failing at was 15,000 miles where it was being run on Shell 95 Ron Fuel Saver.

Often the Indication the Plugs are on the way out,  or actually the one plug that fails is the Fuel Economy getting

worse.

 

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/291585-warning-on-spark-plug-14-tsi-cave-vrs-check-the-spark-plugs

My photos are always out of focus.

(its that lube i use for the cameras other usage.) - I do not think I even want to know!! LOL

 

I don't use the Standard plug I use NGK BKR7EIX but just wondered if people recommend better ? ill look up these DENSO plug, my Engine is the CAVE not the CTHE if that makes any difference what so ever in what plugs to use.

 

And Jabozuma If I can I will get some pics of my sparks when I get them changed.

 

is the recommended gap size 0.065mm ?

0.065" sounds better (1.55mm or so)?

So broke down last weekend, Alternator dead, could be the answer to all my problems.

So broke down last weekend, Alternator dead, could be the answer to all my problems.

 

100% agree with this, i dont know if it was this thread or another,

i mentioned my electrical system in a citroen not being able to cope with the power needed for the engine and the audio system i had installed.

knew it was this thread, hopefully the issue is fixed

yeah you could of got it mate we will see soon it hopefully be fitted this week.

Are you thinking that the Alternators failure now has been the cause of your problems?

 

Is all the rest of your vehicle standard other than the Remap,  ICE and the likes. ?

Got car back after putting old sparks back in and just Replacing the alternator. And yes the problem has seem to of stopped, I believe what caused the misfires was due to the faulty alternator giving out bad Voltage outputs if that makes sense.

Got car back after putting old sparks back in and just Replacing the alternator. And yes the problem has seem to of stopped, I believe what caused the misfires was due to the faulty alternator giving out bad Voltage outputs if that makes sense.

 

Knew it would have been an electrical issue!

glad its sorted!