During the recent Auto Finesse `3 for 2` offer I availed myself of a number of their products...namely: `Glass Cleaner`, `Shampoo`, `Snow Foam`, `Leather Conditioner`, `Tough Prep` and `Tough Coat Sealant`

But they don`t seam to do a `polish` as such. 

During my `end of winter` detail I used `Carlack AIO` prior to the `Tough Prep` and then `Tough Coat`, but with poor results.

My question, then, is:

When the end of summer arrives and I would normally be looking to polish before the LSP (Tough Coat) will I get away with missing out that stage and instead treat the `Tough Prep` as a polish (applied by DA) and then go straight to the `Tough Coat`? 

Sorry this has been a little complicated and long winded.

Regards

Mike.

 

Yes Mike

You probably won't need to polish...just use the tough coat

Yes Mike

You probably won't need to polish...just use the tough coat

Thanks, Chris.

Regards

Mike.

if you want a hand applied polish the you need "tripple" if you want to stick with auto finesse

if you want a hand applied polish the you need "tripple" if you want to stick with auto finesse

Thank you, but `Tripple` is an `AIO` the same as the `Carlack AIO` that I already have.

Regards

Mike.

Carlack 68 is a great AIO too

No need for the AF version at all IMO

At the end of winter I did my car with the Carlack AIO (via DA), followed by the AF Tough Prep (by hand) finishing with the Tough Coat (again by hand.)

The only part of that process I found difficult was with the Carlack. I just couldn't get the material to absorb into the paint...necessitating rubbing vigorously with a cloth on each panel to get remove it.

As I said earlier...my technique might well be rubbish (with the DA I mean) so I'm hoping that I'll fare better using the Tough Prep as the polish.

Regards

Mike.

I apply on a finishing pad and use no pressure......When its hazed...Buff off

I don't know what you mean by absorbing into the paint...It cant!

I apply on a finishing pad and use no pressure......When its hazed...Buff off

I don't know what you mean by absorbing into the paint...It cant!

Ahhhh...being as I saw it as a polish, I used a polishing pad (Yellow). Next time I'll use a finishing pad (Black) and maybe achieve more success!

Well, the product is supposed to `go clear` which I took to mean it was being absorbed (just shows what a loon I am really). Anyway, it didn't go clear no matter how long I tried with the DA so I was left with no choice but to remove it with the cloth.

Thanks, as always, for your interest, Chris.

Regards

Mike.

It wont go clear because of the make up of it (Its not polish)..it has only a small amount of polish..its mainly sealer

Y-Know, I get more confused every day! 

I'll find you the spec Mike

 

Here:

Car-Lack68 Systematic Care:

This product is a cleaner/sealant that will not only clean the car but apply a hard durable acrylic finish that is frost proof, heat proof and shrink proof. Originally formulated in 1958 as the worlds first Wet application wax, Car-Lack 68 has been constantly improved and redesigned to offer the very best in car care protection without sacrificing looks, or depth of shine.

One interesting fact about the cleaning properties of this product is that it absolutely contains no abrasives. We will say that again Car-Lack 68 is completely abrasive free meaning you can use this product as many times as you desire without damaging your paintwork in the long term.

A well known product within the USA called Klasse is proving to be very popular due to its acrylic sealing properties. Klasse is actually based on an old formula revision of Car-Lack68 that has been rebranded to Klasse to make it sound more appealing to the US market. Klasse is a strong favourite among the concours show and shine crowd as it allows you to use it as a base layer to provide an extremely glossy sheen and then topped up with ’Acryl Wax’ (CarLack68 Long Life Sealant) or P21S to give an absolutely outstanding depth of shine wet look. Due to the matching properties of Klasse and Car-Lack68 with the exception of the nano-technology included in Car-Lack 68 that gives better adhesion of the Acrylic seal giving a thicker denser protective layer, this winning formula can be used in exactly the same way. Use Car-Lack68 as a base layer and then top up with your favourite Carnauba wax or acrylic layerable sealant. The results are simply unbeatable!

In 1993 it was discovered by the Federal Agency of Materials (Berlin) that UV rays combined with Acid/mineral rain water could damage paintwork (commonly known as rain spots/water etching) in a very short period of time. To combat this, the formula of Car-Lack68 was updated to completely protect the paintwork against UV sun rays thereby near eliminating the problems caused by acid/calcified rainwater. No other product in the car care market provides this level of protection.

Fast forward 11 years to 2004 and CarLack further improved the formula by introducing their nano technology (each molecule = 1,000,000/mm3 = one millionth of a cubed millimetre) formula application into Car-Lack68 Systematic Care. In laymans terms that means better adhesion to the paintwork and to itself giving a greater density of acrylic seal. Something Klasse does not offer due to its old formula revision based on Car-Lack68.

No other acrylic sealer on the market provides as much protection (including a certain well known product that is normally applied by dealers up and down the country for an extortionate charge which again is based on an old formula of Car-Lack68) to your vehicles paintwork and thats a promise.

Finally, due to the unique properties of Car-Lack68 it can be used on non porous plastics, metal, vinyl, ceramics, tiles and glass. It also can be applied to wet surfaces e.g. water covered paintwork.

Extra gloss and depth of shine can be further enhanced by layering CarLack-68 Long Life Sealant ’Acryl Wax’ and/or P21S Carnauba Wax on top of CarLack-68 Systematic Care.

 

Thanks for that, Chris.

Sounds good doesn't it.

I still found it a bugger to apply with my DA though...perhaps I was using too much.

Perhaps I should apply by hand.

Decisions! Decisions!

Regards

Mike.

Yes. It looks like you used too much

Sorry to be a persistent pain...but a couple of questions come out from this thread for me:

1. If neither Carlack 68 or AF Tough Prep` go clear, how do you know when to stop with the DA?

2. If neither of the above 2 are polishes, and polish is where the shine comes from...where am I going to get the shine?

These will be my last questions...promise!

Regards

Mike.

Tough prep is a cleanser polish as far as I am aware and would strip the carlack's leave behind sealant so definitely not worth it. Tough prep should have enough fine abrasive action to remove minor swirls and bling up the paintwork. However, neither AF prep or Carlack will give the cut to do a full correction. That's when you need to look at dedicated polishes like Menzerna, 3m, Scholl or Meguiars105/205 etc

The idea of Tough prep should be to leave nothing behind but extra clean paintwork to allow the toughcoat to make the best bond.

Prep and polishing will give the shine Mike. But it's technique and practice that will extract the most shine. Just keep practicing and learning as you go.

Hello, Mark. Nice to hear from you again.

Still confused...

If we put aside the `Correction` aspect of things and concentrate on the polishing instead...is there not such a thing as a polish that is just designed to give `bling`? And that I could use with my AF Tough Prep/Tough Coat?

Regards

Mike.

Hi Mike, I've been busy with other stuff of late, been neglecting to pop in here

 

correction and polishing go hand in hand Mike.  There is no putting one to the side.  It is as simple as sandpaper grits really, you are removing thin layers of clear coat to level off surface imperfections.  Heavy grit removes more faster but leaves a rough finish, fine grit leaves a nice finish but would take an age and a day to remove anything more than superficial surface swirls.

 

What we are talking about is trying to get the surface of the paintwork as smooth as possible so as to give the best reflections.  This is the shine that well detailed cars have, LSP in realtiy has only minor input into this.  You really need to remove as much RDS and swirling as possible in order to get that shine.  Many ways to do this.

 

In terms of stages though, tough prep followed by tough coat should give plenty of shine if worked correctly via DA - this doesn't come first time but with lots of practice.  However it is only very mildly abrasive so if the surface has anything more than minor swirling, you will need a rougher piece of sandpaper

 

If you want to use more dedicated polishes then I would suggest you try a two step correction/polish with Meguiars 105 (heavy grit) then 205 (fine grit) followed by a panel wipe to remove oils.  This will leave a corrected and polished surface that does not require Tough Prep, simply apply LSP direct to it.

 

I think the problem is you have bought Tough Prep and therefore think you must shoe horn it in some giant multistage process.  Give it a little more practice and see if results come, if not, I would change system.

Nice reply Mark

 

Welcome back BTW

 

Thanks Chris, with work and then hols and allsorts else, I feel like it's been ages since I posted in here.

 

Was up late last night sorting out some kit for another clearout.  It's all just gone a bit silly and I need to raise some cash for mechanical jobs on the car rather than cosmetics.

 

Procastinating at work should see my post count rise a bit this week, but then away to Brazil with work again following, so will be erratic.

Hi Mike, I've been busy with other stuff of late, been neglecting to pop in here

 

correction and polishing go hand in hand Mike.  There is no putting one to the side.  It is as simple as sandpaper grits really, you are removing thin layers of clear coat to level off surface imperfections.  Heavy grit removes more faster but leaves a rough finish, fine grit leaves a nice finish but would take an age and a day to remove anything more than superficial surface swirls.

 

What we are talking about is trying to get the surface of the paintwork as smooth as possible so as to give the best reflections.  This is the shine that well detailed cars have, LSP in realtiy has only minor input into this.  You really need to remove as much RDS and swirling as possible in order to get that shine.  Many ways to do this.

 

In terms of stages though, tough prep followed by tough coat should give plenty of shine if worked correctly via DA - this doesn't come first time but with lots of practice.  However it is only very mildly abrasive so if the surface has anything more than minor swirling, you will need a rougher piece of sandpaper

 

If you want to use more dedicated polishes then I would suggest you try a two step correction/polish with Meguiars 105 (heavy grit) then 205 (fine grit) followed by a panel wipe to remove oils.  This will leave a corrected and polished surface that does not require Tough Prep, simply apply LSP direct to it.

 

I think the problem is you have bought Tough Prep and therefore think you must shoe horn it in some giant multistage process.  Give it a little more practice and see if results come, if not, I would change system.

Thank you so much, Mark.

Regards

Mike.

Did you say Brazil?

Any chance of........COUGH

Did you say Brazil?

Any chance of........COUGH

 

errrrm????

 

You might need to clarify that slightly dodgy looking post Chris

Remember the car wax you brought back last time?........cough

Remember the car wax you brought back last time?........cough

 

Haha, I know what you mean Chris, it is lovely stuff too, my pot is still 99% full, the stuff is quite hard but oily and goes a long way.

 

I will try to pick you some up, if not you can have my tin, I was in half a mind to add it to my clearout anyway.