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EGR Gaskets? Right Ones?

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This is not the gasket for the 1.4 16V EGR Valve. Im guessing you have removed the EGR to clean it, so here are the gaskets you may need.

 

036 131 547 F - EGR Valve Gaskets You will need 2 of these, one either side of the EGR valve. 

036 131 550 A - EGR Feedpipe to Inlet gasket. The pipe which comes from the EGR valve to the throttle body has this gasket between the mating surfaces where the pipe joins the inlet manifold.

  • Author

I haven't removed it to clean it yet, just wanted to know which ones I needed first, so good job I asked on here. so I need two for the valve itself and one for the feedpipe?

There is a bracket which holds the EGR valve to the cylinder block. This has two studs fitted which the EGR valve is then bolted onto. These studs are often over tightened or crossthreaded so you may have some difficulty with them.

 

The way i tend to do it is spray everything with penetrating fluid, undo to two nuts at the EGR, then undo the two hex, either 5 or 6mm bolts holding the feed pipe to the inlet and undo the support bolt (about half way up the pipe, this may be negated depending on if the pipe has been removed before). This can be a bit awkward so you need a bit of patiences and be careful not do drop the bolts from the feed pipe down onto the gearbox.

 

once you have removed the two nuts and the three bolts, the EGR feed pipe can be wiggled out of the way (or removed for cleaning) and then the EGR can be slid off the two studs (once disconnected from the loom) also be careful not to loose the one way valve and plastic pipe (which should also be attached to the side of the EGR)

 

clean it all up then refit as is reverse. fit the two gaskets, one either side of the EGR valve, then loosely fit the two nuts, then align the egr feed pipe with its new gasket and two bolts (again this can be fiddly but is do-able) then fit the thrid bolt supporting the pipe. once all the fasteners are fitted, make sure  all the pipe work is aligned (much like fitting an exhaust) and then just tighten them all up.

 

the two nuts are torqued to 20Nm and the 3 bolts are 10Nm

 

any questions just ask :)

  • Author

Cheers Taylor this is going to help me ten fold when I receive the gaskets! brilliant guide and tips  :clap:

Ive done it a few times now and was thinking of possibly writing a "how-to guide" on it, but never got around to it! :)

glad i could help

  • Author

After doing it do you notice any difference in how the car runs?

I had an EML caused by the EGR Flow too low, I also had to remove the throttle body to clean the port where the EGR flows into the inlet.

 

The cowboy who was working on the car, at the dealership i purchased it from, didnt torque the two nuts up properly and i had an airleak at the EGR causing a "hunting" condtion. revs would vary from 800 to 1600 while sitting still. AFter i worked on it i fixed this issue.

 

try to view my photobucket album with pictures of the last Fabia i had, it may be of some use.

 

http://s264.photobucket.com/user/Warlord_1011/library/Cars/junky%20Repairs

One question, why are you wanting to do this work, as said before, any issue with insufficient EGR flow will be down to a blockage in the body of the throttle body, or if your car has one, in the interface plate below it. It is normally not an EGR valve problem as they stay clean in petrol engines, there is another O-ring seal in the top of the inlet manifold as well. If you remove the throttle body, but leave the electrical connector on, you might not need to perform adaption, though if you have cleaned the throttle plate area and the EGR pipe port, doing an adaption might improve things.

Rum4mo is right, however I have found that the EGR has go stuck before and i needed to remove it to loosen it, since then i have always removed it better be safe then sorry for the cost of a few metal gaskets.

  • Author

Im in the process of performing a revamp of the car, as said by Taylor for the price of a few gaskets it worth whipping it off and checking all is good

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