Hi guys,

 

I have just joined and just got a 2003 Octy 1.8t 150 bhp, not the vRS as i prefer the sleeper look, i have come from a Micra K11, that was modded, 1.4 running around 110bhp, and built with scrap yard parts from other cars, 1.8 injectors, 1.6 airbox etc to name but a few.  If you check out the Micra Sport Club forums you will see what i mean, us micra owners are proper tight.  Anyhow, I have seen the light and joined VAG ownership, thanks to a friendly vandal who had my Micra written off, but i am wondering, is there any free or ultra cheap mods that can be done to boost power of the 150 model in the same vein as micra ownership, that being scrap yard mods or home brew mods.  If not is there any good starting points that dont cost the earth?

None really bar a remap!

Been looking into a remap, i can get that done for £175 so thats the sort of money i am looking at, but being a cheap ex Micra owner i still like my free and cheap mods. 

There are none really for performance but the remap (if done well) will certainly put a spring in its step.  Still enjoying the power of a stage 1 after many years,

Wakbox Mod is free. Just increases induction noise and dump from the recirc.

N249 bypass. Again further increases the recirc dump.

Save money for repairs not mods. I won't mod something unless I know I can pay for resulting wear etc, and there's also increased insurance premiums to factor in

Arrr the MSC, not been on there since 2006 lol. As for free or ultra cheap mods... None really exist. Most parts from the mk4 golf platform should fit tho if you find stuff on ebay.

Can simplify for not a lot of money.... a few pounds for resistors. helps to minimise boost leaks and less to go wrong. loads of threads on how to do it or check out Rob's page on pimpmyskoda. Best thing you can do for the least is get it back to optimal so check for split vacuum pipes and boost pipes, give your throttle body a clean... No joke can cause lumpy idle. replace your centre silencer if you still have one with a straight pipe to reduce unnecessary back pressure.

There's a lot of things you can do for about 100 but obviously that all adds up

fit a b&q metal luverd vent in the drivers wheel arch behind the intercooler this will help cool the intercooler better when runinng remap they only cost £5 and spray black with some old spray paint then rivet to wheel arch job done ,also audi s3 upper and lower strut braces these fit straight on and look oem and are a good price from the main dealer,also fit a large 3inch cold air feed to the std air box which gose down behind the bumper i always retain the stock filter and replace every few months those k&n pannels are a ripoff these days,its well worth investing in a silicone boost hose and breather hose kit as the ones fitted are likely to be old and shot and when you remap boost will just leak with the higher presure ,creation motorsport do both sets for a very good price loads cheaper than forge motorsport.

fit a b&q metal luverd vent in the drivers wheel arch behind the intercooler this will help cool the intercooler better when runinng remap they only cost £5 and spray black with some old spray paint then rivet to wheel arch job done ,also audi s3 upper and lower strut braces these fit straight on and look oem and are a good price from the main dealer,also fit a large 3inch cold air feed to the std air box which gose down behind the bumper i always retain the stock filter and replace every few months those k&n pannels are a ripoff these days,its well worth investing in a silicone boost hose and breather hose kit as the ones fitted are likely to be old and shot and when you remap boost will just leak with the higher presure ,creation motorsport do both sets for a very good price loads cheaper than forge motorsport.

B&q yes, but not the metal ones. When you put it next to the plastic ones they have a much larger flow area. You can also trim a lot of material off the front vent cover which helps. Defined air box and the larger snorkel or some holes drilled out the bottom help stop tip collapse when you have the remap as well. Before looking at remapping though you need to check what engine code you have as some of the 1.8's have the ko3 not the ko3s like the 4x4 and the VRS

Just drill the arch liner

Or go down the scrappers and find a suitable vent from another make of car.

The difference in flow area over just drilling is significant, I started with drilling, looked at metal(aluminium) vents and also donor vehicle vents but the scrappies want stupid money for stuff. The b&q plastic vents work best and are cheap, you can find them even cheaper on line too.

do you place the vents so the holes are up or down? don't need it for smic as i have a fmic but my air filter is down there

I did this

do you place the vents so the holes are up or down? don't need it for smic as i have a fmic but my air filter is down there

Your air filter is passenger side

Smic is drivers side

And louvers pointing downward

I know as I put it there....

Oh no another msc member welcome along you will find that you will want to go back to your micra soon

I couldn't stop with mine any longer I had the 1.4 sport+ running about the same with a roll cage and I loved it I just got bored of the lack of power was fun in the twisties though

I would have loved to have got another micra, but an expanding family put paid to that, my engine was built for pure top end power, i had nothing till 5 k plus then it came in all at once, but thats how i liked it.  It scared a few VAG owners along the way, but with only 700 odd KG kerb weight it was bound to go like stink, and such a short wheel base it handled like a go cart, specially after the front ARB was removed.  That said i am sure my octy has been remapped at some point as i have "proven" myself against my mates vRS, by staying with him and slightly pulling up on him from a standing start, and the in gear acceleration would murder my old 1.4 micra.  So i am more than happy with my conversion.  Got a new recirc DV on order, plus the parts for the 249 bypass, so hoping that will make a difference, thinking of trying out the wak box mod tho, this being england i am sure heat soak wont be much of a problem, would be nice to hear from others that have done this mod/bodge

My micra

Since no-one else has mentioned this, get some weight off it. It's like getting more power and bigger brakes, but saves you a touch of fuel rather than burning more.

Since no-one else has mentioned this, get some weight off it. It's like getting more power and bigger brakes, but saves you a touch of fuel rather than burning more.

 

Realistically, how much weight can you save if you want to use your car as a family car and not a track car? Obviously on a track vrs you wou rip as much out as possible, but I can think of anything to help without actually spending money on lighter parts.

swap spare wheel for tyre weld, the under floor sound deadening is quite heavy and simply lifts out once you get the carpet up. comes in two sections under both rear footwells and the other is under both front footwells. 

 

Simplifying engine bay can save about 20-30kg

 

So for next to no money just time and effort you can save about 60kg without adversely affecting your cars practicality 

That was mine sadly I sold it and the guy distroyed it I miss it it was my little go kart but family grew so needed more room

With weight reduction and keeping it as usable family vehicle there isn't much to come out but you can make changes. As mine is the 4x4 I still had the caliper carriers to take it back to 288mm disks, this meant I could fit the audi 15" pepper pots (forged) they come in 10lbs lighter each so 50lbs total + the 288's weigh a bit less than the 312's. I also managed to get LCR front subframe and lower arms but not sure how much lighter they are? All of these were cheap-ish they just about counteract the ton of cr4p I have in my boot all the time though.

As already said though, get the boost and vac system sorted as it will rob you of power and economy if it's not right. Also good coils and plugs make the world of difference. Oh and a new oem paper filter every service or 6k. They are cheap and they make a big difference.

As for the vent you can have it facing down or as I have done, out of the wheel arch.