Earlier I fitted a new cambelt and waterpump etc to my fab.

All went ok.

Replaced fuel filter and service etc.

Ran the Car to bleed the coolant for a bit.

Drove about 2miles down the road. I drove slowly no boost etc just to make sure ok.

Pulled over, reset clock and service light.

Then!!!!! Pulled away, give a little bit of a boot in 1st then it cut out and wouldn't restart.

Sounded as if boost pipe popped off.

Towed car back, rechecked everything. All timed up ok, pipes ok etc etc. I can't see that I've done anything wrong.

Tried ignition few times to try bleed fuel. Was clutching at straws.

Surely if I had the timing out it wouldn't run to start with?

I'm not too sure what to look at next. I don't have vag com or anything like that.

I think iam going to cry. ;(

And please excuse my low post count. Iam a paid up member I'm just a lurker more then poster.

When you changed the fuel filter, did you fill it up with fresh fuel before fitting?

If you get any air in the system they can be a bitch to start!

I'd keep cycling the ignition to keep it primed up and continue to turn it over, otherwise get a friend to tow you down the road in second or third gear and it will fire up again.

Do you have VCDS? If so see if it's logged a fault. Also log group 4 and check the synch value. When I replaced my cambelt I had the timing wrong even though the tools looked spot on. Had to tweak the cam timing slightly.

He has no access to diagnostics. I can only assume the timing is correct if it's started up ok (and I think used the fuel up in the fuel lines untill empty from the filter change)

Try it again once it's cold, if it starts from cold it could be the timing.

Your also meant to slacken the 3 13mm bolts for the camshaft timing when fitting the new belt with the timing kit, it's designed to turn as the tension is put on the belt and puts itself in the correct place!

On another topic, checking measuring block 4 and looking at torsion value has been nothing but unsuccessful for me!

Do you have VCDS? If so see if it's logged a fault. Also log group 4 and check the synch value. When I replaced my cambelt I had the timing wrong even though the tools looked spot on. Had to tweak the cam timing slightly.

 

If the timing is out, wouldn't it throw a code out with the fault light?

Stupidly I didn't fill the new filter. I will try it tomorrow.

No I haven't got vcds but wouldn't mind getting it. Would help out quite a bit.

Is it something I could buy myself or a company only diag machine.

Yeah I loosened the 3 sprocket bolts. Iam going to try timing again tomorrow.

That's your problem then, will take forever just turning the engine over, will end up flattening the battery... Your choices are,

- Use diagnostic equipment to keep priming the fuel pump

- charge the battery overnight to get the fastest cranking speed, use a fully charged jumper pack at the same time to keep it charged

- tow it along the road to bump start it (I would 100% check timing before doing this tho)

If the timing is out, wouldn't it throw a code out with the fault light?

Mine did eventually. Camshaft position sensor error. Quick tweak of the cam using the 3 bolts sorted it.

I never filled my fuel filter on both times I changed it. Just took a few cranks to start.

It primes on ignition doesn't it ? Hence key in, turn to on, primes, off, and continue ad infinitum and then try to start after a good many of those cycles. I could be wrong on this but just what I thought, hence opening up the discussion on this point

It primes on ignition doesn't it ? Hence key in, turn to on, primes, off, and continue ad infinitum and then try to start after a good many of those cycles. I could be wrong on this but just what I thought, hence opening up the discussion on this point

 

Isn't that just for petrol engines?

It does prime on ignition. When I filled up with petrol I disconnected one end the flow pipe from the tank and turned ignition on and off many times to empty it.

It does prime on ignition. When I filled up with petrol I disconnected one end the flow pipe from the tank and turned ignition on and off many times to empty it.

 

Ah OK.

Sounds likr fuel to me.

When I change my fuel filter I fit the inlet pipes but leave outlet pipes off then I flcik the ignition on and off till fuel pumps out the fuel filter. No diesel on you and no steady hand needed

I know this sounds silly, but is the filter on the correct way round? I've never had this sort of problem changing petrol fuel filters, the filter usually fills up pretty quickly and any air burps out quicky as it's a contsant flow and return circuit.

Morning. Yeah the filters on the right way round. I pulled out the return while cranking but had no return fuel going back.

Iam going to see if I can power probe the supply pump now to bleed it.

Powered up the fuel pump. Got fuel going to the rail ok.

Disconnected the return and only a small amount flows back. Is this normal? I would of thought as it's not started or cranking it would be roughly the same amount of flow back.

Almost certainly a timing issue, the PD engine is highly sensitive to timing, get everything lined up again and try and insert the lock pin, it should slide straight in.

I will try again now.

Well this is a very boring build thread I know. Also not a very fun one for me either.

However.

Rechecked timing again, all ok. Spot on in fact.

Put old fuel filter on as clutching at straws. Bled ok.

Tried to start. Still no good.

Pulled off boost hose before inlet. It started. Idled fine.

Put on boost pipe while running and cut out.

Pulled off all hoses to check for anything. Found on lower hose before inter cooler a fragment of metal. Looks possible like turbo impeller blade.

I didn't remove the air filter so couldn't of dropped anything in there and covered up all open boost pipes when off too. Made sure I removed the rags I used to block off aswell.

Just about to get to the turbo to check.

I really don't know how the turbo would of just seized and blocked the way it has if it does turn out to be that. Just hoping it isn't full of bits of valve.

I turned over by hand about a million times prior to starting though so.... Well I just don't know really ;(

Turbo cannot have inlet valve fragments in it since it blows through the intercooler and sucks through the air filter, it is perfectly possible that your turbo impeller has started to break up due to bearing/oil feed failure since this is very common on higher mileage engines but this would be co-incident with the work you have done and not caused by it.

Oh this will be why.

Oh nips!!!!!

So, are there any upgrade turbos that bolt on with minimum fabbing??

Bad luck, you'll need to replace the intercooler as well since it'll be full of metal.

Yeah very true. I will be stripping the boost pipes and cooler etc etc giving them a good clean out.