Having just knocked a couple of front tyres out in around 15K miles, I would like to know what adjustments can be made to the front suspension of a standard Mk2 Octavia Classic 1.9 diesel.

This is only the second time in around 30 years of driving that I have had uneven wear issues, and have been concerned about what I was told recently after having the front tracking alignment done.

I bought the tyres online from Tyreshopper to have them fitted at a local branch of National Tyres, and paid an extra amount to have the tracking done as well. They did the tracking, but the steering wheel is still slightly "right hand down", and the car feels as if it is pulling ever so slightly to the left.

So, were they right to say that the tracking can go out in a matter of weeks, bearing in mind that I have driven cars for years (even Beemers with all their linkages) and never had a problem, or are they just absolute pants at doing alignment properly?

Normally after 30 days they ask you to come back for a free recheck

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You probably need to get a proper geometry check - not just the tracking. You'll find loads of info on here about issues with geometry and premature/ uneven tyre wear. Had same problem myself. My steering wheel is also not quite true but I can live with it, especially if it means I get even wear on the fronts. The geometry issue tends to affect rears more than fronts but the front is not immune!

Doesn't sound like a very good job By N/T to me. I would not be happy if the steering wheel was not  inline after tracking because it is the simple part of the job, if they can't get that right what else have they got wrong.

Tracking adjusts one front wheel to the wheel on the opposite side. Many places do the adjustment by winding in or out one side steering arm, which will also alter the centre position of the steering wheel. They either don't know or don't care. Either way its is quite likely pointless or even counter productive. As you have found.

Modern suspension is much more sophisticated to achieve the results it does and needs accurate setting up, both for grip and wear. It also needs to have the multitude of bushes and joints in proper order.

All wheels must be aligned to each other. On a VAG mk5/6 chassis it may be necessary to start with the front subframe and work out from there.

In my experience, a proper 4 wheel alignment is necessary to optimise tyre wear, grip and handling, fuel consumption - not to mention driver confidence and passenger comfort.

Sure it costs, and it is not peanuts, but having mine done at every tyre change has paid dividends.

My last set of tyres (on a car both chipped and with tweeked suspension and brakes) was 40,000 miles.

The first time I had it done on this car, the fuel computer showed low 40's on the way there and high 50's on the way back, despite me giving it some because it felt soooo much better.

ps my car was bought as a 3yr old ex lease rep mobile. The service history was available, full dealer servicing and no accidents. How many other vehicles are running about with adjustments wildly out, like mine was?

Is there a limit to how much you can actuially adjust on a standard setup though - track rod arms only?

I know that you can buy different suspension kits, which may allow further adjustment, but apart from shimming or using a big hammer (only joking) what adjustments can you make?

I may go back there with the invoice and complain, but I just hate the attitude and confrontation when you do that.

We seem to be going through one of those phases when everything seems to be going wrong for us.

Edited 12 July, 201411 yr by andyoctavia

There are a few more than tracking.

At the front, the suspension is mounted partially on a transverse subframe. Violent knocks or lack of care when mechanicing can move it about and put some of the settings out.

At the rear the rear camber is adjustable, provided the relevant bush is not seized.

The health of the various bushes will also have an effect on the ability to be adjusted and accuracy to which it can be done.

The skill involved is for the settings to be the best they can be without replacing absolutely everything. A decent machine, like a Hunter is good, but useless if the staff don't know how to use it.

I should think myself very fortunate that the rear of the car is totally inline, judging by the even wear across the rear tyres. I gave the fronts a quick depth test using a key and they seem OK, but I will check them every week from now on, because I know how quickly they can go out.

Edited 12 July, 201411 yr by andyoctavia

front is toe adjustment only but you can get some camber movement by taking advantage of any size variations between bolts & the bolt holes in the top of the strut & the ball joints - it's not much but it helps.  Also, the cross member can be moved to adjust the difference in camber from L to R.

 

Rear has toe & camber adjustment

+1 for a full geometry check, front and rear. It really isn't enough to track the front wheels up -- if the fronts are OK and the rears are not, the whole car could well be crabbing because the rears are not following the fronts correctly.

 

When I got my estate, all the tyres seemed reasonably evenly wearing, but I always had the feeling that on a right hand turn the car was running true, but when turning left, such as leaving a roundabout, the back end always left like it wanted to come round on me (though it never actually did). I even took the car back to the dealer wondering if there had been any sort of accident damage. But a full 4 wheel geometry check solved that issue totally and instantly.

 

You will be amazed hoe much better a properly set up car feels -- avoid the tyre folk who simply line the front up. They don't know what they are doing.

 

Mike

 

 

Mike, am I right in thinking that once you have the car set up correctly by an expert, then it should last a long time - assuming that you don't go around hitting kerbs and driving through big holes.

Mike, am I right in thinking that once you have the car set up correctly by an expert, then it should last a long time - assuming that you don't go around hitting kerbs and driving through big holes.

My first alignment lasted 90,000km before I started feeling guilty  - there was no adverse tyre wear but i used to tell my customers to get the alignment checked every 20,000km.

 

It still seems fine 45,000km later.  I don't usually run up gutters but on our crap roads the occasional pothole is hard to avoid & I usually do 15kph speed humps at about 25-30kph.

 

In short, the Octavia seems to hold it's settings quite well.

Many places charge a nominal fee for checking and an additional charge for any adjustments.

How long it remains in alignment really depends on things beyond our control, like road surfaces and speed humps, which can put a strain on suspension.

Its something you have to be aware of, and a quick visual of the tyre occasionally could spot it being off.

I have mine done every tyre change at least.

Like you, I scrubbed through a brand new set of premium tyres in short order once, cost me far more than the alignment.