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engine light after induction kit fitting


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Evening all, fitted my induction kit this afternoon and its bought the eml on. Diagnosed it and its said maf input low. Now the maf is connected and isnt faulty as it was fine before.

The only thing I didnt do was plug the air vacum hose into anything, as the induction kit doesnt have anything to plug it to.

Ive spoken to my friend whos a mechanic for vw, and hes said this will be causing the issue. He said just drill a hole in the intake pipe, create a vacum round that and plug it in. It then should be fine.

I just want to double check, or if anyone has had the same problem and tried this and it still hasnt worked?

engine doesn't pull much at all now, however the mpg is still the same.

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1. Take it off and stop wasting your money and time. The air filter does nothing to increase the power. The air filter will just suck more hot air from the engine, rather than from the front of the grill. (The real cold air intake). 

 

1. Make sure the MAF is plugged in.

2. Make sure the vacuum hose is plugged in, a new hole would be best in the housing wall (Most solid part of the filter would be best) drill a small hole and tap it. Then buy a threaded nozzle to screw in and to feed the pipe onto. If you are drilling a hole into the pipe, it is likely that the hole will expand, the pipe will come loose and the air will escape causing you more of a headache. Even a slight variation if pressure will affect your performance. 

3. Make sure the MAF sensor is the right way around. There is an arrow on housing to show you which way the air should flow.

4. Don't read the MPG trip computer. It's not that accurate. Use the standard formula, miles per gallons in a full fuel tank. 

 

Good luck! 

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Ok, so said hole was drilled and the problem is still there. I know induction kits wont add anything, its purely there for show.

any other suggestions? The fault code is still saying the same and the maf is the right way round.

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Have you cleared the fault code with a diagnostic machine?

 

Yeah i've cleared it a couple of times now. every time it's cleared, once i take the car for it's second drive after it just comes back on.

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You would be better off getting a better flowing panel air filter than some after market induction kit.

 

As said, if you really want to use an after market induction kit, you're going to need to put heat shielding with good intake air circulation for it to see any benefits, otherwise you'll be loosing power!

 

 

Be careful with MAF sensors, they are really easy to damage as well!

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You would be better off getting a better flowing panel air filter than some after market induction kit.

 

As said, if you really want to use an after market induction kit, you're going to need to put heat shielding with good intake air circulation for it to see any benefits, otherwise you'll be loosing power!

 

 

Be careful with MAF sensors, they are really easy to damage as well!

 

Bad advice, there is no flow restriction in the standard filter and intake temperature is less important because the air gets heated being squeezed by a turbo and then cooled in an intercooler.

 

True about the MAF though.

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I disagree.

 

Sure, intake air gets heated by turbo, but it's adding to the temperature at which it goes in.

 

IF for example, air going in is 20C and the turbo adds 10C to the temperature, then surely you want the air going in to be cold as possible?

 

Think of it like this....

 

Your computer runs hotter if the ambient temperature in the room is hotter, despite the effort of the fans to cool the heat sinks/watercooler (if you have one).

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Guest BigJase88

Have a look on mighty car mods

Induction kits do nothing only if you like a bit of bwaaaarp

Sounds to me like you have busted your MAF sensor

That vacuum hose is only a feed for the vacuum system so can be left dangling in theory (not best idea)

Edited by BigJase88
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I disagree.

 

Sure, intake air gets heated by turbo, but it's adding to the temperature at which it goes in.

 

IF for example, air going in is 20C and the turbo adds 10C to the temperature, then surely you want the air going in to be cold as possible?

 

Think of it like this....

 

Your computer runs hotter if the ambient temperature in the room is hotter, despite the effort of the fans to cool the heat sinks/watercooler (if you have one).

 

No it's not.

 

You forgot the second part of the equation, the intercooler, the intercooler cannot lower the air temperature further than ambient temperature irrespective of how hot the air entering it is. The other factor to consider is that underbonnet temperatures will drop quickly because the turbo is sucking huge amounts of air which are actually being drawn in from outside because the volume of air in the engine bay is relatively small and that air has very little time to get warmed up in the bay before being gobbled up, squeezed, heated and then intercooled and burnt. Like I said, intake air temperature is relatively unimportant, ambient temperature and pressure is far more important which is why dyno operators punch it into the computer when they're doing a power run.

 

Think of it like this...

 

I speak from experience, I'm not guessing.

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