sepulchrave

I used only the connectors supplied with the kit, one for the back of the new indicator lever, one or possibly two (memory fuzzy) that just plugged into empty sockets on the module between the relay board and steering column, a connector that piggybacked onto the brake pedal switch plug which opened like a clamshell, and the toughest was inserting the pin into a blank space on a plug from the ECU bus on the bulkhead way behind the instrument cluster which necessitated the whole dash coming out. Reassembly was the reverse of disassembly, I had one spare screw IIRC.

Yes, it's caused by the battery voltage dropping too low, you need to recharge the battery overnight.

I bought this kit from Germany last year and everything worked perfectly: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404233691444?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338946167&toolid=20006&loc=41791&customid=4581733689551803_710033503_o.4ce8134fda4d187ad43b7ada301eb6d9&msclkid=4ce8134fda4d187ad43b7ada301eb6d9 I had to remove the entire dash to access the connection on the bulkhead so it's a solid days work unless you've done one before.

I recently installed cruise control using a complete kit from a German supplier, the installation went well considering the entire dashboard had to come out in order to access pin 10 on the ECU plug and only one spare screw! Anyway whilst driving to Edinburgh the cruise worked perfectly until I was crossing the moors in southern Scotland at night, as soon as the outside temperature dropped to 4°C the frost alarm on the dash flashed up and the chime sounded, this also triggered the loss of cruise control, the ASR light came on and the revs dropped to idle and would not respond to any throttle input. I coasted to a halt and turned the engine off, pulled the key then restarted it. Everything ok again. Has anyone else ever come across this weird behaviour before, if so how did you fix it? Cruise worked perfectly again the next day on the drive back to Brighton.

The main dealer would have done the job properly using all genuine parts and the bill would've been ferociously high. I'm not saying don't do it, but changing it absolutely isn't necessary yet.

If the car is cheap then you should just drive it, at that mileage the camchain has plenty of life left.

No, the MAP sensor almost never gives any trouble, you need to read the fault codes and post them here otherwise you're just firing parts at it needlessly as you've just discovered.

It's not possible for the door to deadlock if there's no power going to it.

No, it's just a NRV that's lets air in but not out.

No, the different thicknesses are for piston crown to block deck height, since you're not changing anything then you simply need a duplicate of whichever gasket is already fitted.

It's a timing chain on the CBZA, but some garages will be happy to take your money for changing the belt.

It sounds like it's stuck in limp home mode, how are you reading the faults?

I don't think it does, the pipes are just clipped to the subframe, you have to drop the subframe to remove the steering rack.

He isn't English so he won't understand your condescending remarks!

You need a new airbag ECU I'm afraid as well as new airbags, it'll be expensive so your grandad might as well claim for it on his insurance.

I wouldn't hold your breath, if there's nothing on eBay then you're probably stuck.

Excessive flow is what the MAP sensor is telling the ECU, but it might not be anything to do with the EGR valve, it can be caused by air leaks into the inlet that are bypassing the throttle body, check thoroughly for vacuum leaks and check the breather system as well. There is also the possibility that the EGR position sensor is sending back the wrong data, you can try re-adapting the EGR valve if it'll let you, if the adaption routine fails then the EGR valve is defective and needs replacing. Petrol EGR valve is nothing like the diesel item and any comparisons are unhelpful at best.

It's very simple,1856 means an 18mm exducer with a 56mm inducer, standard is a 17mm exducer with a 49mm inducer. This isn't rocket science, all that pub talk nonsense is no substitute for experience and housing size is utterly meaningless. It takes more exhaust gas energy to turn a bigger wheel, turbo sizing isn't magic, an engine is simply a pump, a bigger pump can drive a bigger turbo.

I thought the 1.6 TDI had an electronic actuator, I know the 1.9 is vacuum operated.

Looks like your turbo actuator is playing up, fix that and ignore the rest.

I strongly suspect the timing has slipped, there's nothing wrong with the CPS, it's the cam position itself that's the problem, since the HPFP is generally also driven by the cam then the other codes confirm the issue.

It'll be the lock.

Convert it to 312mm discs first, then worry about the calipers if you don't have enough brakes.

I don't like that code, are you using a horrible generic reader?

It does improve your brakes noticeably if you change it when it's old.