I will be looking for a detachable tow bar in the near future and have read a few bits about the pro's and con's of swan necks as this seems to be the most common detachable type out there.

 

Bu then there is this type (picture obviously stolen from the internet):

 

 

So, general question that is not car specific (but it will be for a Yeti if that makes any difference), why would I want a detachable flange type and not a detachable swan neck?

 

What can I do with the flange that I can't do with the swan neck?

 

What are your thoughts please?

If you are just towing normal ball type hitches then the standard swan neck is ok. However, if you want to attach a cycle carrier a flange type allows for more options, or you might want to tow something that uses towing round hoop and pin set up as in the picture.

 

Thanks.

The only bike racks that I've seen that make use if the flange type actually bt between the ball and the main body. But these don't seem to allow the boot to be opened on most Skoda body designs.

Or am I missing something?

Possibly showing my ignorance here, but what would you use the pin type ball you show for?

Thanks.

The only bike racks that I've seen that make use if the flange type actually bt between the ball and the main body. But these don't seem to allow the boot to be opened on most Skoda body designs.

Or am I missing something?

Possibly showing my ignorance here, but what would you use the pin type ball you show for?

Some farm trailers but I don't know much else

Farm and construction trailers mainly. Generally heavier things than you'll be able to tow with the Octavia anyway (legally anyway...), though tow-able construction site generators tend to have them and maybe those traffic light control generator units.

Thanks.

The only bike racks that I've seen that make use if the flange type actually bt between the ball and the main body. But these don't seem to allow the boot to be opened on most Skoda body designs.

Or am I missing something?

Possibly showing my ignorance here, but what would you use the pin type ball you show for?

They can be useful for attaching tow ropes, as you tow from the centre of the car, rather than offset to one side.

They can be useful for attaching tow ropes, as you tow from the centre of the car, rather than offset to one side.

Yes but the front towing eye on a car is the same side as a rear towing eye so that it's dead straight when towing anyway

The pin ones don't seem to be worth considering.

Apart from the bikes carriers that hang the bikes down from horizontal bars, I don't see how the 4-bike 'stand on' carriers (such as Witter ZX404) can be used to tow a trailer at the same time.

It seems that Alko stabilisers (whatever they are) can fit to swan necks as well now.

So it seems to come down to accessories such as bumper protection plates, height adjuster plates and such like as being the only reasons to go for a flange type detachable.

Thoughts?

The pin ones don't seem to be worth considering.

Apart from the bikes carriers that hang the bikes down from horizontal bars, I don't see how the 4-bike 'stand on' carriers (such as Witter ZX404) can be used to tow a trailer at the same time.

It seems that Alko stabilisers (whatever they are) can fit to swan necks as well now.

So it seems to come down to accessories such as bumper protection plates, height adjuster plates and such like as being the only reasons to go for a flange type detachable.

Thoughts?

 

Forget the "pin and ball" for your use.

 

Some of the "stand on" bike carriers will fit over the top of the trailer frame, but only if there is no jockey wheel fitted. Some of the "stand on" carriers tilt downwards so thaqt the hatchback can be lifted; Thule I believe do one, but it is expensive.

 

Alko hitches need to use a ball that is slightly higher and further away from the mounting, due to them having pressure pads inside to stop the trailer swinging and pitching. They also use a dry ball with no grease on it. They fit a swan neck fitting with no alterations.

Thanks Graham.

 

I've seen several 'stand on' bike criers that tilt down, obviously not with a trailer in place,, but the generally seem to be too low to allow a trailer to fit under it as well.

 

I'll look into the Alko hitches a bit more as we may (long shot) get a caravan in the future (retirement).

Even with a flange fitted tow ball you can still tow an Alko equipped caravan. All you need to do is buy a new ball.

However from my personal experience I would always fit a removable swan neck now.

However from my personal experience I would always fit a removable swan neck now.

I know you have experience with towing and Yetis, so I know the answer will be based upon that: why you'd choose a swan neck over a flange?

Although narrower & neater, they seem more limited to me (but then I'm also struggling to see what the merits of a detachable flange towbar are).

I have a detachable flange (Witter) rather than swan neck simply because the overall price wasn't very different and will give me more options should I need them in future. I intend to keep the vehicle a long time, so wanted it future-proofed.

 

Looks almost the same as that one you posted, except the bar is pretty much flat, since I have a higher vehicle. The ball on it is an alko one.

I have a detachable flange (Witter) rather than swan neck simply because the overall price wasn't very different and will give me more options should I need them in future.

Thanks. That's what I'm trying g to ascertain: what are the extra 'options' a flange type brings?

I know you have experience with towing and Yetis, so I know the answer will be based upon that: why you'd choose a swan neck over a flange?

Although narrower & neater, they seem more limited to me (but then I'm also struggling to see what the merits of a detachable flange towbar are).

 

Firstly because most swan necked are removable so the back of the car is "cleaner".

They less likely to get bumped,

And you don't clout your shins every time you go to the boot.

Swan necked will probably be lighter than the flange fit detachable.

Alko balls fit better without having the purchase the special flange fit ball.

There are plenty of accessories that clamp-fit to swan necked, from bike carriers to luggage boxes.

 

Why do you think they are more limited?

You can tow anything with a flange towball (alko compatible balls aren't dear) but you can't attach everything to a swan neck (racks, platforms, stabilisers, jaws etc.)

Detachable flange is the way forward as it covers all options.

That's kind of my thinking but couldn't fathom what 'extras' I would need in order to justify getting one.

Although the price differential is negligible.

Firstly because most swan necked are removable so the back of the car is "cleaner".

They less likely to get bumped,

And you don't clout your shins every time you go to the boot.

Swan necked will probably be lighter than the flange fit detachable.

Alko balls fit better without having the purchase the special flange fit ball.

There are plenty of accessories that clamp-fit to swan necked, from bike carriers to luggage boxes.

Why do you think they are more limited?

Principally because they do to seem to have many accessories for them.

But my perception may be outdated or just wrong.

Your first three observations are possibly not applicable as I'm specifically looking at a detachable towbar of either type.

No question that the flange gives more options, the question is do you need them?  You'll find the detachable part is quite heavy anyway, and the flange version will be heavier still and a bit more awkward to stow.

 

Height - you should not need a height adjustment plate anyway, and if you do use one then it may not be type approved.  When fitted, the centre of the ball should be 385mm from the ground, +/- 35mm, with the car in the laden condition.  If you fit a towbar and attachment designed for your car that should be achieved.  I know of one case where the ball was far too low and it turned out that Witter had supplied the wrong attachment, which was replaced.

 

Something else to consider is electrics and what type of socket you need.  The current standard is a 13pin ISO which in my experience is more reliable than the 12N & 12S 7 pin types, and you only need one socket for both lighting and caravan wiring.  If you have a trailer board or what have you with a 12N connector, I'd still go for the 13 pin type and use an adaptor.  I had assumed that nobody had 12N fitted any more until a friend of mine actually specified one recently!  New UK caravans have had 13pin plugs on since 2008, and other European ones from long before that.

 

If you are wanting to cater for possible future caravanning, make sure the correct wiring kit is fitted.  The best option, though not the cheapest, is a plug in kit from the manufacturer which should ensure that trailer stability control works, parking sensors are disabled when towing, etc.  Do check though exactly what wiring is provided.  It used to be the case that VAG wiring kits didn't provide battery charging and fridge power for the caravan.  I hope that Skoda have fixed that now, particularly as they have won Tow Car of the Year.  At the very least I would go for an aftermarket dedicated kit rather than a universal one - the dedicated kit will be cheaper than the manufacturer part, but should have all the right functions and not require any hacking into the wiring.  That's fairly generic advice by the way, but hopefully will help you to ask the right questions.

 

The last towbar I had fitted was a detachable swan neck to a Mitsubishi Outlander I bought three years ago. A detachable is essential on the Outlander as the lower tailgate will not open fully with a towball in place.   I had the Mitsubishi parts fitted  by the dealer, which turned out to be a Witter kit anyway. All the electrics worked perfectly, and still do (13 pin socket).

Edited 25 August, 201411 yr by Manatee

Thanks Mantee.

I would certainly go dedicated 13 pin wiring and have read the thread in the Yeti section on what 'Tow bar prep' includes as this is something I'd be looking for.

I'm still not 100% certain as there seems to be some confusion still as to whether the full 13 pin functionality is only achieved by ignoring the tow bar prep and adding a full wiring loom. What I'd hope is that the towbar prep gives 7 pin and the extra pins are added in addition to the tow bar prep 7 pins. Ideally the tow bar prep would give the full 13 pin functionality anyway...

Back to the towbars...

I've had a detachable swan neck so know how heavy these are and would expect the flange type to be more.

As to the accessories, I can't find any decent information as to what they bring / do to be able to decide whether I need them or not.

I chose a detachable swan neck purely because they looked neater than the flange type.

 

I ended up leaving the swan neck attached to the car as it offers good protection in car parks etc.

 

 

 

 

Here is something similar fitted to a Yeti...

 

Thanks for the pictures. Appreciated.

Curious why you went for a detachable if you leave it attached?

Thanks for the pictures. Appreciated.

Curious why you went for a detachable if you leave it attached?

Just looks a bit neater IMO and as he has said

Curious why you went for a detachable if you leave it attached?

 

Purely cosmetics. Call me vain.

 

The fixed towbars just look like an after thought, big, square edges, nuts, exposed threads. When they rust there is more to them so more rust on show.

Fair comments. Thank you.