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Polish/wax/sealant application techniques

vrsRob
in Styling and Car Care

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This has been bugging me for a while now...

 

As most do, I love seeing my Black Magic vRS all clean and shiny with a deep wet looking finish. Now, I have been known to spend a day getting rid of poxy swirl marks by hand with P1 and P2 and frequently polish my car after washing.

 

After a while of searching for the right finishing product that with give superior beading, longevity, depth of shine and not costing the earth (recommendations still welcome as still searching!), I notice that many people suggest application in a small, tight circular motion...this is how I used to do it but a couple of years ago, I switched to up and down, left and right motions as I did/do not want to put more swirls in...

 

Opinions please...

  • Author

I use a tight circular motion.

 

I always used to but can't help thinking this may contribute to swirl marks??

 

Link not working for me btw...

Me neither.

TBH

Youre not going to ever get a perfect finish by hand

I don't have much experience of polishing by hand..I always use a machine polisher

Gtechnik suggest straight lines..I would favour a box technique..as long as correction is happening, I wouldnt have thought that it matters a lot

EDIT:

Found this:

 

How To Polish A Car – Step by Step

 

  1. Ensure your vehicle is thoroughly washed and dried
  2. Select your chosen foam or micfrofibre applicator pad
  3. If using a round pad apply a single spot of polish to the centre of the pad, approx the size of a 10p piece. If using an oblong pad apply smaller spots the sides and middle of the pad
  4. Work the polish into the paint firmly and evenly across the area being polished. I recommend working in the same direction across the area but then changing the angle for each pass. i.e first pass up and down the area, second pass side to side across the area, third diagonally etc. Although some will say polish in circles I find that you are able to achieve a more even application using the same motion on each pass.
  5. Once the polish has been worked into the paint and only a light haze remains, buff off the remaining polish residue with a soft, plush microfiber buffing cloth
  6. If you have needed to use a more abrasive polish or swirl remover I would recommend a final step down to a lighter one to give a finer polishing effect to your paintwork.

You should now be left with a vastly improved finish with either the swirl marks completely gone or significantly reduced. If you have more than light swirling or find that your paint is extremely hard to work with you may need to repeat above a couple more times to get your desired result. Remember to apply your polish firmly and evenly across the area being worked. Do not “scrub” hard and fast in very small areas to avoid an uneven finish which can look even worse than the initial swirling. You are now ready to either apply a glaze and/or a car wax or sealant.

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    • Like 1
    • Author

    Thanks Chris - so what products would YOU recommend for a black car to give prolonged protection, deep shine and wet look? I am already thinking about prepping it for winter!

    PM'd Rob

    Never used ...but it looks a nice product

     

    Not used it either - but have been researching this with interest. The 2014 improved version is getting good reviews.

     

    Also - depending on what else you may or may not order....  Direct from CarPro with 10% discount (CS75) will save you some cash over the CYC price.  :thumbup: 

    ArtDeShine ArtDeSicko. It's my new favourite product and can see me selling all my waxes and not using anything else! Bold claim I know...

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    • Like 1

    Thanks Chris - so what products would YOU recommend for a black car to give prolonged protection, deep shine and wet look? I am already thinking about prepping it for winter!

    Do you have a budget to work with?

    For ultimate for ultimate protection you could use a sealant like FK1000p & add a wax over it for a wetter look. Or just go straight to something like Collinite 845 which gives a wet look & good durability.

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    • Like 1

    As for techniques, polishing by hand with Gtechniq P1 - working an are about 12" x 12" work left to right, right to left, then top to bottom & bottom to top. There are some videos on YouTube

    Sealants, I apply in straight lines

    Waxes I apply in circular motions

    Or, just follow the instructions on the packaging. Definitive Best of Show is a wax, but they recommend straight lines....mmm lovely wax ;)

    •
    • Like 1
    • Author

    Do you have a budget to work with?

    For ultimate for ultimate protection you could use a sealant like FK1000p & add a wax over it for a wetter look. Or just go straight to something like Collinite 845 which gives a wet look & good durability.

     

    I do use Collinite 845 and have done for years, I just want better!

     

    As for techniques, polishing by hand with Gtechniq P1 - working an are about 12" x 12" work left to right, right to left, then top to bottom & bottom to top. There are some videos on YouTube

    Sealants, I apply in straight lines

    Waxes I apply in circular motions

    Or, just follow the instructions on the packaging. Definitive Best of Show is a wax, but they recommend straight lines....mmm lovely wax ;)

     

    It is the circular motions that always throws me, we try and get rid of the circular swirl marks then proceed to apply products in a circular motion?!?! 

    How do you want to better 845? Ie what disappoints you with it? Do you have a budget?

    I know what you mean re circles, but applying with a clean soft applicator won't inflict swirls. Also use a nice plush cloth to remove. I remove using straight lines also.

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    • Like 1

    DanHam has just applied Carbon Collective's 'Oracle' coating this evening. It went on and came off soooo easily!

     

    Will definitely be interesting to hear his feedback after a bit of time...

    one important thing to note is that although swirls look like round scratches (and their name suggests it) they ARENT circular scratches - they are just marks going in all sorts of directions. Its just the way we see them and they catch the light that makes them look like circles.

     

    Which direction you apply wax in makes no difference (its just personal preference) but its the technique eg choice of pad, keeping zero pressure on the pad, making sure it doesn't dry out or catch any dirt etc... In reality on anything other than the hardest paints its impossible to apply product without adding the slightest of marring to the surface in some way, as clearcoat is a scratch sensitive finish - buffing product off is actually the biggest risk. The key is to absolutely minimise the amount and use products and techniques that keep it to a minimum. 

     

    Its one reason I love Opti Seal applied with the softest MF pad possible. It requires zero pressure, flashes off almost instantly and requires zero buffing. Absolute minimum chance of marring. I remember detailing a Brabus Merc a few years ago that had THE softest black paint I've ever experienced. You couldn't wipe IPA over it without putting marks back in the damn paint after hours of polishing. Opti Seal proved the only LSP we could apply without undoing 2 days of polishing!

    Edited by Bigpikle

    • Like 4
    • Author

    Thanks for all the replys guys, much to think about! 

     

    I have decided I may well sell off some of my excess stock - Rugged Rhubarb, AutoGlym HD Wax etc, to make way for new bits to try out!! 

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    • Like 2

    Thanks for all the replys guys, much to think about! 

     

    I have decided I may well sell off some of my excess stock - Rugged Rhubarb, AutoGlym HD Wax etc, to make way for new bits to try out!! 

     

    Sounds good mate - keep us uptodate with your purchases....  :thumbup:

    one important thing to note is that although swirls look like round scratches (and their name suggests it) they ARENT circular scratches - they are just marks going in all sorts of directions. Its just the way we see them and they catch the light that makes them look like circles.

    Which direction you apply wax in makes no difference (its just personal preference) but its the technique eg choice of pad, keeping zero pressure on the pad, making sure it doesn't dry out or catch any dirt etc... In reality on anything other than the hardest paints its impossible to apply product without adding the slightest of marring to the surface in some way, as clearcoat is a scratch sensitive finish - buffing product off is actually the biggest risk. The key is to absolutely minimise the amount and use products and techniques that keep it to a minimum.

    Its one reason I love Opti Seal applied with the softest MF pad possible. It requires zero pressure, flashes off almost instantly and requires zero buffing. Absolute minimum chance of marring. I remember detailing a Brabus Merc a few years ago that had THE softest black paint I've ever experienced. You couldn't wipe IPA over it without putting marks back in the damn paint after hours of polishing. Opti Seal proved the only LSP we could apply without undoing 2 days of polishing!

    Detailed response, really useful for those of us who are less experienced, thank you.
    • Like 2

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