You won't get the coolant up to temperature any quicker with a blocked radiator as the thermostat doesn't open until the engine is up to operating temperature so no coolant flow is passing through the radiator anyway?

In extremely cold climates I can understand rad blockers to stop the radiator being superchilled whilst there is little flow in it but it shouldn't affect warm up times.

 

Reducing the flow of cold air through the engine bay will help in reducing warm up times.

Reducing the flow of cold air through the engine bay will help in reducing warm up times.

I suppose if you pull off your drive straight onto national speed limit it might... but around town I can't see enough air being rammed through the engine bay to reduce warm up time on a water cooled engine that anyone would be able to tell.

Having run several hotrods, one which I went from an enclosed engine bay to one that was completely open from the rad back that had absolutely no effect on the cooling I'm not convinced.

The cold air also cooles the intercooler, as well as the engine bay and block itself. I am not sure about the circulation in the intercooler circuit on a 1,4 TSI, it is a complex picture. I didn't take the time, but engine warmed up quicker and gave warm air sooner when my restrictions were installed.

I know your from Norway so you deal with far more extremes of temperature than we do and I have never dealt with that kind of weather myself. All I know is at -8 which is about the coldest I can remember having to clear the car, it was toasty warm and de-iced in around 5 mins so not really an issue for me

I know your from Norway so you deal with far more extremes of temperature than we do and I have never dealt with that kind of weather myself. All I know is at -8 which is about the coldest I can remember having to clear the car, it was toasty warm and de-iced in around 5 mins so not really an issue for me

Much of my driving was commuting 12 km, first half 50 km/h (30mph), second 70 km/h (45? Mph), not much engine load. And the 1,4 TSI engine is a little strange, it is an aluminium engine and it seemed to "give away" the heat to the surroundings by itself (using long time to heat up and give slow warmth into the cabin). Therefore I also tried to give it 3-4 min idle before setting off, it helped a bit too.

Anyway, this was a little side track. Restricting the air flow through the radiators will not harm the engine and cause any overheating in cold climates (below +5) in a normal driving situation. All cars have temperature gauges and it's easy to monitor.

Edited 20 October, 201510 yr by fatzy

sounds like paranioa to me!

no, it's a really smart idea.

 

Personally, I wish i could put a 2mx3m wall of mesh in front of my car - I'm so over stone chips from vehicles in front.

A couple of bits of fibreglass flyscreen attached externally to the upper and lower intakes with small cable ties.

Not very pretty but cheap and very effective at keeping stones and bugs away from the radiator.

2 minutes to apply and 2 seconds to take off, but you will need new cable ties then

 

When I do a country run I am always astounded at how many bugs it collects and the birds appreciate an easy feed at our usual watering holes (coffee break points).

I have not had to drive through a Locust swarm for a few years now, but I was ever thankful I had it fitted a the time. The radiator would have been totally clogged in minutes.

 

Never overheated even on a 47 deg C day and the front of my radiators are like new and undeformed.

I haven't found winter grille covers for mk3. The radar unit for the adaptive cruise control (for those who have that) will be an issue, it cant be covered.

This is the complete set for mk2:

http://www.superskoda.com/images/Plasty/o2f-fbg-cvr2.jpg

Edited 21 October, 201510 yr by fatzy

I am not sure blanking the radiator works that much to speed warm up (at least on the Gen3 1.8 TSi) as the engine has quite complex heating control.

 

When cold it does not circulate water around the system at all, it then circulates water round the heater circuit through a dedicated pump if you ask for heat, only when it is up to temperature does it open up the radiator circuit. Its like the wax thermostat but much more complex. It does that with oil as well. It specifically changes the engine temperature between 85^oC and 107^oC on the fly depending on load in order to keep the oil at best temperature. 

 

If the radiator is too cold and affecting the warm-up schedule it just blocks it off anyway. If you block off the radiator, is all you do is change what it does to follow the heating schedule, it does not change the schedule.

 

Unless you could insulate the engine block itself, or parking heaters/electric block heaters would work as it affects the engine circuit.

 

I can see it may stop a bit of air getting round the block but the engine bays are so tight these days I think the effect would be minimal. If you want to heat it quicker I would say it is either a Webasto/electric block heater or let it do its thing.

 

Not sure if the 1.2/1.4 EA211 or the diesels do the same but the EA888 gen3 is quite complicated on heat control and not sure you can change it that much

I think the O.P has the right idea. It's only since reading this thread that I realise how vulnerable the lower grille leaves the condenser - obviously I'm not very observant!

 

Since my bumper needs to come off soon - broken headlight - I will use the opportunity to put some mesh in place. Any suggestions, Auric, for a source of suitable black plastic mesh?

I think the O.P has the right idea. It's only since reading this thread that I realise how vulnerable the lower grille leaves the condenser - obviously I'm not very observant!

 

Since my bumper needs to come off soon - broken headlight - I will use the opportunity to put some mesh in place. Any suggestions, Auric, for a source of suitable black plastic mesh?

 

B&Q do some fine metal mesh, you'll need 2 pieces, the mesh is ok in hight but not in length so you can overlap the mesh for double protection. fasten it on with wire ties. I did this on my  MKII FL Octavia Vrs and used Gold mesh. It comes in all colours. Total cost about £15/£20

 

Hope that helps

Plenty of ebay sellers sell car 'modding' mesh of different sizes and shapes for around a fiver. Black alu would work quite well I think.

I think the O.P has the right idea. It's only since reading this thread that I realise how vulnerable the lower grille leaves the condenser - obviously I'm not very observant!

 

Since my bumper needs to come off soon - broken headlight - I will use the opportunity to put some mesh in place. Any suggestions, Auric, for a source of suitable black plastic mesh?

I use the same stuff they put in roof guttering.

 

Similar to this:

I use the same stuff they put in roof guttering.

Similar to this:

What leaves?

I decided that most of those meshes are too flimsy & will fall apart when hit by high speed stones..............

 

I used stainless steel woven mesh 5.1mm holes & edged it in car body rubber trim & inserted behind the radar & in front of the condenser........

Thank you all for your responses. 

 

Auric,  B & Q would never have occurred to me as a possible source but I have to go there for some household stuff, so I can now kill two birds with one stone!

 

Ta muchly.

I had a hole in my Yeti Aircon. radiator (£500+refilling!), I made and fitted external grills with black aluminium mesh and panel trim edging.

I transferred these grills to my second Yeti and may yet fit them to my 2019 Fabia.

There was no overheating problem and I used to tow a caravan.

Edited 17 April, 20197 yr by gumdrop

Can't you get black cable ties in Russia. mine fits a treat, better than the £750 it has just cosy me for a new condenser.