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Is this a good routine? (It's too late now!)

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I know there are loads of these typo of threads floating around, so I hope you'll not smack your heads over another one.

 

I've tried getting into DW forum, but find it less user friendly than Briskoda and, while there is loads of good advice, there is almost too much of it for a beginner.

 

Moving on...

 

I don’t have a lot of time or inclination (or money) to spend ages cleaning / detailing my next car (probably a Candy White Yeti) each week, but I do want to make it easy to wash and clean monthly and keep it looking good. Some of the items in the lists below I already have and some I will be getting.

 

From what I have read, stripping the waxes off and polishing / claying seems to be OK as a yearly task if wax is topped up regularly. That I can cope with.

 

My basic yearly plan is this:

  • Snowfoam (Demon Shine Snowfoam at present, but looking at Valet Pro Citrus Pre-Wash instead);
  • Wash (Meguires Gold Class Shampoo: TBM & DoDo Juice Yeti Wash Mitt);
  • Clay (Farecla G3 Clay Mitt);
  • DA Polish (???);
  • Pre-wax cleaner (???);
  • Should I use some sort of tar / fallout / iron remover here? Is there something that I could also use on wheel as well as bodywork? Would CarPro Trix IronX be suitable?
  • Dry (Purple Monster Drying Towel)
  • Wax (Obsession Wax Hybrid 86) - 2 coats;
  • Seal  (Sonax BSD)

 

My monthly plan is:

  • Snowfoam (VP Citrus as above);
  • Wash (Meguires Gold Class: TBM & Yeti Wash Mitt);
  • Dry (Purple Monster);
  • QD (Sonax BSD).

 

At least that is what I am thinking at the moment and trying to build up my supplies ready for a decent used Yeti. Please correct any obvious errors or omissions and advise me what products to purchase where there are gaps or queries.

 

As you can see, polishing and decontaminating has still got me confused over what to use and what to do. Possibly better if I get some training from ChrisRS if I am up in Leeds anytime soon. In the meantime, I’ll keep reading.

 

One final question (for now): What cloths / pads do people recommend for applying and buffing the Hybrid 86 wax and for applying Sonax BSD?

 

Many thanks for bearing with me on another thread.

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  • Thanks for the above. Now updated. Snowfoam (Valet Pro ph Neutral Snow Foam); Wash (Meguires Gold Class Shampoo: TBM & DoDo Juice Yeti Wash Mitt); De-iron (Iron-X); Rinse & Dry; De-tar (T

  • I like this guys videos and loads of good tips on detailing   http://www.ammonyc.com/videos/

  • Here's the tools for today:       And here's some of the results:         Here's the front of the car (rain stopped play with one door, the boot & roof to do):     I've managed to r

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Detar & De-iron before claying. After claying then wash car. This is now ready for your polishing or paint cleanser. After polishing then an IPA wipedown will then be needed to remove any oils/fillers from the paint. This will then show you the correction you have achieved. Apart from that it looks a good regime as does your monthly plan.

 

Look forward to the pictures.

Edited by NorthernMonkey

  • Author

As as a yearly or 6 monthly cleaning regime this would be better:

  • Snowfoam (Demon Shine Snowfoam at present, but looking at Valet Pro Citrus Pre-Wash instead);
  • Wash (Meguires Gold Class Shampoo: TBM & DoDo Juice Yeti Wash Mitt);
  • De-tar/iron paint and plastic trim (CarPro Trix IronX?)
  • Clay (Farecla G3 Clay Mitt);
  • DA Polish (???);
  • IPA wipe down (50:50 on a cloth?);
  • Dry (Purple Monster Drying Towel)
  • Wax (Obsession Wax Hybrid 86) - 2 coats;
  • Seal  (Sonax BSD)

And then the above monthly routine to keep clean and top up with BSD.

 

Any other thoughts especially about products (where there are gaps) and on polishing and anywhere where there is a question mark?

I don't like Trix, I prefer a dedicated product for each job. My preference is Tardis & Iron-X

DA polish if the paint needs it, no point in polishing if the paint is in a good condition. DAS6 Pro is £99.95 delivered on DW CYC group buy.

50% IPA in my opinion is far too strong. General consensus is 1 part IPA to 6 parts water is about right. It's ok to use a stronger mix on glass.

Products are an individual's preference. Then monthly, or more often just foam, 2BM wash & top up the protection if you think it needs it.

I had a candy white yeti and just a thought but it used to help me when waxing, wear a pair of sunglasses as you will get almost snow blind after a while.

And good choice with the hybrid 86 being blue you shouldn't have much problem seeing where you have been like I used to have by using natural coloured waxes.

Good luck with it all.

Looking forward to seeing your new yeti :)

  • Author

Good tip Dinski. Thank you.

And Northern Monkey thanks for clarifying the IPA mixture ratios.

I'll look at Tardis & Iron-X as separate products since that's on the 'once/twice a year' list.

The routine is pretty extensive and lots of good steps listed...

So the big question is - when is the first major detail planned? 

 

I assume you hope to get the car well sealed up for winter....

  • Author

First detail will be soon after I get the car... Watch this space!

 

Although one I am hoping to look at it sealed with William's Paint Protection which may change the above routine slightly - I don't know.

 

Yes I am trying to get a Yeti ASAP and get it protected up for the winter before it gets too cold / wet / dark and while I have the time to do it properly.

 

Another aim is to make it easier to keep on top of. With some proper protection and a QD top up, it should be easier to wash and therefor quicker and thus more likely to get done.

  • Author

Looking at the Valet Pro website, I don't think the Citrus pre-wash is the right thing to use with a snow foam lance as the first stage of cleaning.

 

I'll go for their 'Advanced Neutral Snow Foam' instead. Unless anyone knows of a better alternative.

Yup go for their ph neutral snow foam.

I tried some of their Advanced Snow Foam last year

I wasnt that impressed

The only difference I saw was that the Foam dwelled longer (and on the drive!!)...but cleaning power was no better

So...Is it worth paying more over Normal pH Neutral?

IMO.....I dont think it is

  • Author

I value your opinions on this Chris and Carl, so ph neutral it will be.

Only thing I'd add is I've seen others say not to use IPA as it can soften the paint, though I've no experience using it myself. When Chris did my car earlier this year after the clay mit stage we rinsed and dried, then used a pre cleaner ( farecela paint restorer) with a DA which has deminishing abrasives in it and removed all traces of the old wax and left the paint ready for the LSP. There are others that don't have the abrasives in if you prefer but using one means your LSP will last longer.

  • Author

I'm looking to get some DoDo Juice Lime Prime as a pre-wax cleanser.

So could I just use that in place of the IPA?

Yes you could...Get DJ Lime 'light' (no abrasives) if polishing first

  • Author

I've gone for the Lime Prime (not lite) as I'm not sure yet how I'm going to be polishing the car as I don't have access to a DA polisher; or indeed if it will need polishing much.

My thinking was that if I have to hand polish it then the second mildly abrasive DJ LP pre-wax clean will also help to finish the polishing properly whilst creating a clean surface for the wax.

Yes. Good thinking

Hi KBPhoto,

As you know I have a Candy White yeti.

I took some advice on what was best for mine.

As the car was new paintwork was swirl free. I washed, Iron X ( amazed at how much contamination on the car ), light clay bar, washed again and then used Auto Finesse Tough Kit. I, rightly or wrongly, was informed that this sealent was a better product on this colour car than a wax as the white wouldn't show the depth of colour like reds or black and only need reapplying every six months. I snow foam and always use the two bucket rule and a drying towell. I also use Sonax BSD every three or four washes. Wheels were cleaned and sealed with Auto Finesse Mint Rims and wiped over with the BSD as well. This

Products were easy to apply and didn't cost a fortune. Dirt, flies etc remove from paintwork with little effort when cleaning and rain beads like crazy. Weekly washing is relatively quick now and I am more than happy with how the car looks.

  • Author

Thanks jerbear.

You still loving the Yeti?

I've too have read that sealants (as opposed to waxes) look better on light coloured cars.

TBH I doubt I'd notice the difference unless you put a polished and a sealed candy white car next to each other!

I've got some Hybrid 86 wax now, so will be running with that for the time being (probably starting on SWMBO's Black Fabia to get some practice in) as I want to get some element of correction done (no idea how much is needed yet) and some protection before winter sets it.

Hopefully doing a deal this week...

Hi KBPhoto,

Yes, still loving the Yeti...... and cleaning it!

Hope you sort your deal out, you won't regret it.

Remember some pics when you get it.

Jerbear.

  • Author

The latest incarnation of the pre-winter wash & wax (for this year):

  • Snowfoam (Valet Pro ph Neutral Snow Foam);
  • Wash (Meguires Gold Class Shampoo: TBM & DoDo Juice Yeti Wash Mitt);
  • De-tar (Tarids)
  • De-iron (Iron-X)
  • Clay (Farecla G3 Clay Mitt);
  • DA Polish (???);
  • Pre-wash cleanse (DoDo Juice Lime Prime Lite as I will be borrowing a DA and polish from another Briskodian)
  • Dry (Purple Monster Drying Towel)
  • Wax (Obsession Wax Hybrid 86) - 2 coats;
  • Seal  (Sonax BSD)

Should I dry and/or wash after the Tardis and the Iron-X?

 

Am I there yet?

You are there!! :thumbup:

Pictures or youre not! ;)

The latest incarnation of the pre-winter wash & wax (for this year):

  • Snowfoam (Valet Pro ph Neutral Snow Foam);
  • Wash (Meguires Gold Class Shampoo: TBM & DoDo Juice Yeti Wash Mitt);
  • De-tar (Tarids)
  • De-iron (Iron-X)
  • Clay (Farecla G3 Clay Mitt);
  • DA Polish (???);
  • Pre-wash cleanse (DoDo Juice Lime Prime Lite as I will be borrowing a DA and polish from another Briskodian)
  • Dry (Purple Monster Drying Towel)
  • Wax (Obsession Wax Hybrid 86) - 2 coats;
  • Seal  (Sonax BSD)
Should I dry and/or wash after the Tardis and the Iron-X?

 

Am I there yet?

I iron x before the tardis, then rinse and dry as the paint needs to be dry before you use the tardis. After the tardis has done it's bit I then give it a blast with the jet wash followed by a quick detox shampoo and rinse and use what shampoo is left as a lube for the clay mit

  • Author

Thanks for the above. Now updated.

  • Snowfoam (Valet Pro ph Neutral Snow Foam);
  • Wash (Meguires Gold Class Shampoo: TBM & DoDo Juice Yeti Wash Mitt);
  • De-iron (Iron-X);
  • Rinse & Dry;
  • De-tar (Tardis);
  • Wash (Meguires Gold Class Shampoo);
  • Clay (Farecla G3 Clay Mitt);
  • DA Polish (???);
  • Pre-wash cleanse (DoDo Juice Lime Prime Lite as I will be borrowing a DA and polish from another Briskodian)
  • Dry (Purple Monster Drying Towel)
  • Wax (Obsession Wax Hybrid 86) - 2 coats;
  • Seal  (Sonax BSD)

Chris: baring incident it'll be mine on Friday this week. Wash, wax and pictures will be next week.

 

When I've got this right, it'll be glass, trim, wheels and interior to sort...

 

Lets hope this makes it easier to keep clean on a more regular basis.

"Chris: baring incident it'll be mine on Friday this week. Wash, wax and pictures will be next week."

 

Looking forward to viewing the new motor and detailing pics :)

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