Skip to content

Haldex failure scare

Featured Replies

Interestingly the Haldex pdf above mentions front wheels spinning before Haldex engages.......

 

 

 

 

Llanigraham has preached this MANY times on here.  The rear wheels will ONLY get into action once the front ones have spun for a bit. That is the basic principle of how a Haldex system works and sometimes novice drivers don't realise this and back off as the front wheels start spinning and thus before the rear wheels can get a bite.

  • Replies 64
  • Views 12.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Most Popular Posts

  • We're not talking a £20 Argos trickle charger, the alternator on most vehicles will give out at least 80 amps on full field duty, between 5 and 8 miles it will be fully charged, I've even proven this

  • It's right there I think

  • Sorry Tom, but it takes a lot longer than that!

Llanigraham has preached this MANY times on here.  The rear wheels will ONLY get into action once the front ones have spun for a bit. That is the basic principle of how a Haldex system works and sometimes novice drivers don't realise this and back off as the front wheels start spinning and thus before the rear wheels can get a bite.

That's what I always thought as well, but muddyboots said I was wrong in post #21 above, hence the quote.

Sorry bit of misunderstanding here I think.

 

I meant that pre-Gen4, Haldex only engaged as a result of wheel spin.

 

Gen4+ also engages as a result of front wheel spin, as you say, but also has the capability to pre-engage in some cirumstances (starting off and accelerating, for example).

 

EDIT, to quote from Page 3 of the self study guide:

 

 

Speed differences between the front and rear axles are no longer a prerequisite for activating the all-wheel driveclutch.

I can confirm that on my Gen II Octavia Scout the front wheels do need to spin for at least a second before the rears kick-in.

 

I was able to spend some time in a snow filled car park a few years ago to see what I could get it to do.

 

I also discovered that manually turning off the ESC (Electronic Stability Control) and keeping on the power improved things significantly with regards to setting off and carrying good forward momentum in deep snow.

  • 1 month later...

I feel a need to revive this thread, following up on some of my previous postings.

 

I'm working away from home at the moment, commuting weekly by train, and only using the Yeti for short trips at the weekend.  This weekend just gone the wheelspin problem was very noticeable - and the TCS light definitely was showing.  This is in a car which has recently been serviced and all systems given a clean bill of health, including the tyre tread depth.

 

It was cold and damp this weekend and you would expect that to reduce the grip available.  But this wheelspin is vastly worse than I've experienced before both in other cars, or previously in the Yeti.  I'm beginning to wonder whether the OE Dunlops have "gone off" in some way (I've never been particularly impressed with their grip anyway).  I haven't been able to put the winter tyres on yet but when I do that should give some indication of whether the problem is purely down to the Dunlops, or whether something in the drive train is not functioning properly.

 

Is it conceivable that a set of four-year old tyres with plenty of tread left should just turn into horrible slippery-slidey things for no apparent reason?

Quite possible, especially when you consider that most tyre manufacturers recommend replacing tyres that are 5 years old.

Particularly if the vehicle doesn't do much mileage. The tyre surface can get glazed, normally not a problem as it soon gets scrubbed off with regular use. 

 

Fred

Cold, damp, greasy roads with 4yo mediocre summer tyres....I'd get the winters on, and see if it's still an issue.

Have you checked that they are on the correct rotation settings? Unidirectional tyres on back to front could cause the effects you are experiencing.

I haven't been able to put the winter tyres on yet but when I do that should give some indication of whether the problem is purely down to the Dunlops, or whether something in the drive train is not functioning properly.

 

Is it conceivable that a set of four-year old tyres with plenty of tread left should just turn into horrible slippery-slidey things for no apparent reason?

 

I'm on my third set of the same Dunlop SP01 Sport tyres that come fitted to most Yeti's on 17" rims, except on an Octavia Scout.

 

I rate the tyres very well although as with all subjective topics others hate them.

Duplicate post, either my PC or Briskoda is running soooo slooowwww.

Edited by silver1011

  • Author

I'm on my third set of the same Dunlop SP01 Sport tyres that come fitted to most Yeti's on 17" rims, except on an Octavia Scout.

I rate the tyres very well although as with all subjective topics others hate them.

Rubbish in snow though! The car will get you moving but jeez it's scary trying to stop with that radial concentric tread pattern

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  • Author

I'm not sure if some of the posts are addressing the OP or not but the car has been faultless ever since. The haldex system is sophisticated enough to sense slip before you do so you shouldn't experience FWD scrabble unless the conditions are extreme. I live on an unmade road and I never experience this apart from when the battery had been drained.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I now have awakened my OCD over this...

My (new to me) '10 140 4x4 elegance was bought from a big dealer who had it stood for a few months. It was serviced by them (non VAG) but (ocd again) I took it to my normal main VAG dealer for its 3yearly haldex oil change.

Have not noticed any slip when pulling away but only really given it the beans a coupe of times in the wet. Tyre wear worse on the front but two brand new dunlops on the back.... But of course no way of knowing what the dealer has done prior to me buying it.

Live a bit out of the way and rely on the AWD to keep us all out of the ditches when it gets white etc ( esp. as under those situations the wife will be running the kids around etc)

Should I worry? Would the dealer have done a diagnostic when they did the Haldex oil?

Should I buy a OBD scanner to check it?

Cheers guys,

John

Don't worry about it, just drive it!

  • Author

I think the lack of scare stories on here proves that it's a really intelligent and reliable system so as the man says just drive it and enjoy it! I love the way you can floor it at a junction and get instant drama free drive where 2wd cars would be scrabbling around for grip

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Have you checked that they are on the correct rotation settings? Unidirectional tyres on back to front could cause the effects you are experiencing.

 

AFAIK the SP01s are asymmetrical but not unidirectional.  Plus, they've been on since April and I only started noticing the problem a month or so ago.

 

I put the winters on yesterday and thought at first that they were just as bad, but I think they just needed waking up after their enforced æstivation (look it up).  They were back to how I remembered them being after just a few miles.  Try as I might I couldn't get them to spin excessively away from rest, and although I got the TCS light on a few times the car always felt secure.

 

I've never really liked the SP01s.  This latest behaviour has endeared them to me even less.

....but I think they just needed waking up after their enforced æstivation ....

 

The educational level of Yetists never fails to delight me :nerd:

Hi guys,

Yup I did as suggested. I had a great drive to work.

Did give it a little test pulling out onto a (deserted) roundabout first thing this am. No wheel spin on the greasy wet road. Did understeer a teensy teensy bit on the exit but nothing problematic... just heard it more than felt it.

Great fun.

J

  • Author

My drive to work is like a b-road rally stage - narrow, twisty, bumpy. undulating and always wet! The Yeti can cover this terrain as quick as anything due to its confidence inspiring levels of grip and good balance.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

My drive to work is like a b-road rally stage - narrow, twisty, bumpy. undulating and always wet! The Yeti can cover this terrain as quick as anything due to its confidence inspiring levels of grip and good balance.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I have noticed that as well when "making progress". The suspension set up and the Haldex system combine to give tremendous confidence.

 

Having come from years of cars loosing grip on me when giving them the beans I find it very hard to upset the Yeti in the same way. Plenty of grip out of the bends when giving it power and even pulling away at a junction at full throttle equals no wheelspin (even on damp roads)

  • 2 weeks later...

Well the ocd got the better of me... Bought a obd bluetooth dongle from amazon... 7 quid. 'Borrowed' my wife's android tablet downloaded the free 'torque' app.... No faults current or historical. Reassuring but only took a minute from start to finish. Hmm prob would have been best to hold onto my 7 quid!

Thought I would share.

Cheers

J

But for every several imaginary faults there's a real one. My Haldex pump has just needed replacing at 45K (under extended warranty fortunately). Symptoms were the TCS light coming on unexpectedly and loss of the usual surefootedness off wet roundabouts. Fault codes were picked up I'm pleased to say (nothing worse than what feels like a genuine fault but no error codes flagging), but didn't indicate whether it was the pump or the control box - apparently it was narrowed down to one or the other, but both parts had to be ordered before a trial and error swapout fingered the pump as the culprit.

youch!

Glad you got it nailed. I will be keeping my dongle in a safe place..just in case.

Cheers

J

But for every several imaginary faults there's a real one. My Haldex pump has just needed replacing at 45K (under extended warranty fortunately). Symptoms were the TCS light coming on unexpectedly and loss of the usual surefootedness off wet roundabouts. Fault codes were picked up I'm pleased to say (nothing worse than what feels like a genuine fault but no error codes flagging), but didn't indicate whether it was the pump or the control box - apparently it was narrowed down to one or the other, but both parts had to be ordered before a trial and error swapout fingered the pump as the culprit.

Glad I never bought yours then :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

Recently Browsing 0

  • No registered users viewing this page.

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Account

Navigation

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.