Has anybody carried out a refurb on there Brembo brakes?

 

 I am considering changing all the seals on mine and freshening them up a bit, I believe a kit can be purchased with everything that is needed.

 

 If anybody has done the refurb any pointers or photos would be appreciated.

I got shot of mine once I realised they'd got to that point.  I think a full seal kit wasn't cheap, but afraid I can't point you in the right direction

 

Maybe try browsing cupranet as obviously the Leon Cupra R comes with them as stock.

I've done bike ones several time. There are no basic differences.

Cleanliness is paramount.

NO petroleum based cleaners or lubes.

It is thought that splitting the calipers themselves is a BAD idea. They can apparently be hard to reseal.

All the ones I have done, the pistons can be removed without splitting.

IT is so much easier to to the first bit on the vehicle, but I guess yours are off?

If all the pistons are moveable, then no worries. If one is seized then work on that first.

You can use air pressure or even an old mastercylinder to rig up a pump to force the piston out. You will need to block all the others. I used G clamps. You could get and old bike m/c from a breaker.

Don't try levering out the pistons, the rim can distort or you may damage the bore. Persevere with the pressure

Once all pistons are out, check for rust. Pitting on either piston or bore is not so good.

A fine grade scotch pad - not emery or anything else that could scratch or cause a dimension change.

While the pistons are out, clean out the bleed nipple hole, it fills with crud which is why there should be a rubber cap over it. Clean all the drillings too.

Ditto on the brake pipe inlet. Check the threads too.

Everything should now be spotless. Clean your work area, making sure any dirt, grease etc is gone. Hands and tools too.

If you are doing the NQSBBK and having to swop the connecting pipe, you will notice getting the threads started back in the caliper can be a pain. When the unions are tightened, the end of the nut is splayed slightly and is then too big to smoothly enter into the thread. I very carefully take a smidge off the un-threaded section with a file (and clean thoroughly afterwards).

The usual instruction is to not use any lubrication on the seals.

The seal also acts as a spring to slightly retract the piston.

Line pressure will push the piston out until the pads press against the disc. The seal distorts, the top trapped in the groove, stays, and the inside edge "sticks" to the piston. No longer sitting square under it, but displaced by the piston movement, the springiness of the seal then retracts the piston once line pressure is gone.

As the pads wear, the piston moves too much for the seal to grip and the piston slips a bit, self adjusting the brakes.

At this point I become a bit unorthodox.

Lubing the seal allegedly destroys the seals ability to perform the self retraction job.

However, I find it almost impossible to get the piston into the seal without a faint smear of brake fluid.

Anyway, the choice is yours. If you damage the seals forcing them, then the only thing is a new set.

Fit all seals. Insert spotlessly clean pistons.

If they don't slide in, then a thin smear of fluid on the leading edge of the piston should do the trick. It then gets wiped off, not leaving any nasty hydroscopic brake fluid to absorb water and initiate rust again.

If they do not slip into place, then an arrangement of clamps to evenly apply pressure has always done the trick for me.

Obviously, you only need do one piston at a time

Again, unconventionally, I fill the space between the seal and dust shield with silcone grease to prevent it filling with water.

My application is on bikes with perhaps greater exposure to the elements. Your choice.

There, easy peasy. Actually no, you need to be on your toes as the soft alloy, especially the threads and bores are easy to damage. The seals may look tough, but you are reliant on tiny portions of them to be perfect.

Anyway, some one will be along soon with a utube clip.

Hope this may be of some help.

What a fantastic write up, thanks.

 

 My callipers are still on the car, I have to replace pads and discs over winter so thought a refurb could also be done.

What about brake caliper specialists Nottingham. Just started following them on facebook, there work looks very high quality.