Octavia 1.9 diesel 2000 plate, common problems?

[w4rn3r]

Hello my son recently bought the above octavia it has 125k on the clock and is in all round generally good condition regarding corrision and such, the question i have is what the common probs for 2000 plate car, the previous owner was disabled according to log book so im assuming it hasnt been hammered by some spotty youth around the estate.

 

I been for a ride along and had a quick look over it under the bonnet and following is a short list of problems i noticed so any help with these would be great.

 

(1) rear windows have stopped working, i think they are still getting power as im sure i can hear a humming when button depressed on one of the windows

 

(2) inspecting the engine and noticed the plug for the MAF was hanging(unplugged) - son says since its been plugged back in theres a noise when car gets into high revs(just before gear change) sort of like a diesel engine sound but more of a rattle

 

(3) when setting off or changing gear the cqar chucks out a plume of black smoke ( im hopeing its because it hasnt been thrashed and is just a build up of carbon) or maybe a faulty MAF

 

(4) when i was stood at the drivers side after checking all the fuses, the engine was running and when he turned it off there was a hissing sound which became clear once noise from engine had gone then died out after about 3 to 5 seconds

 

(6) and finally the reverse lights have stopped working (we have checked the fuses) all the other lights work ok, but i did notice the previous owner has installed a DIY 12v socket in the boot (probably to charge his disability scooter while in transit) im thinking maybe he's spliced into the reverse lighting cable or something

 

 

so there it is in a nutshell i await your answers and recomendations so we can get to work, thanks

[pauldazzle]

My guess.

 

1. Broken wiring or window regs.

 

2. Common practice to unplug the MAF if it's dead as the ECU will use default settings.

 

3. Could be a build up of carbon & needs to be ragged a bit to clear it. Clogged CAT. N.B. PD engines like to be revved.

 

4. Vacuum leak, AC compressor.

 

6!! Bulbs/ wiring fault. Reverse light switch broken.

Edited 27 October, 2014 by pauldazzle

[cheshire_cat]

4 prob'ly vac to antishudder valve leaking see if it shuts momentarily at ignition off------'spect the egr valve and manifold need a good decoke

[w4rn3r]

thanks for the replies so far guys, gives us something to look at without going round the houses

[Pavaotti]

Regarding the window. I had  a failed rear window. I could hear a faint clicking (yours may be the humming) when I pressed the switch.

 

It was a broken wire.  Simple as that.

 

Pull back the protective rubber "bellow" between the car body and the door.  You will see a connector and a cluster of wires.  Follow the wires back into the door and you will see they are covered in a cloth like tape. Remove this with scissors or a sharp knife (Don't nick the wires)  On removal I found a thick red wire (live I think) that had broken plus a couple of other wires where the insulation was cracked.

 

When I reconnected the ire with a connecting clip and reinforced the wires with insulating tape the window operated perfectly.

 

Check out the forum for a write up.

 

Good luck

 

Pavarotti

[mbames]

4)  Anti shudder valve I would guess.  I can hear mine leaking air once the engine is turned off.

 

6)  The boot has a secondary 12v cigarette socket as a factory fit item.  Suspect reversing light switch to be at fault assuming no volts, otherwise failed bulbs if the fuses are ok.

[w4rn3r]

thanks for info pav, we'll take a look at the wiring once the weather clears a bit, and @mbames its deffo not factory fitted as when he first got the car there was a manual switch which lights up bright blue when turned on (we thought it was an immobiliser when we first looked, but worked out later that this switch was to turn the 12v socket on/off in the boot

[w4rn3r]

so while i've been working the last few days my son took it upon himself to try and get some of the bits sorted, he bought and installed a new MAF and the result was.....well nothing the car is still chugging as much smoke out as a steam locomotive, so he took to his local garage and to see if it needed any codes wiping, the codes that came up were for MAF as expected, but also something to do with EGR valve wheich they told him was either gunked up and stuck in the open or closed position OR theres a split pipe around it.

 

If atfer inspection we cant find a split pipe....how hard the EGR valves to remove and clean and what sort of time ascale are we looking at?

 

thanks in advance

[mbames]

EGR to remove is pretty easy.

 

Remove rubber hose from intercooler.  Unto tto allen bolts from the top, then you need to remove the EGR supply pipe from the turbo (2 nuts at the turbo end), and 2 allen bolts into the EGR assembly.  With this pipe removed you can access the 3rd allen bolt which holds the EGR assembly to the inlet manifold.

 

socket mounted allen keys are a real bonus as space can be a bit tight.

[w4rn3r]

thnx for the talk through mate, i will look for a pic walk through as well to go with this

[mbames]

Oh, and obviously you will need to disconnect the vacuum hoses & electrical connections from from the EGR plunger and the anti-shudder butterfly flap.