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Vrs Stage 1 Remap, worth doing?


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Hi,

 

I've owned a 2004 Octavia VRS since July, one prev owner from new, totally standard, FSH, on 100k, using the forum for info, I've sorted a few early running problems I had, by changing the MAF, Secondary Air Pump, Thermostat, Air Intake Temp, Fuel filter, Air filter etc and all genuine parts.

 

Also had a smoke test done no leaks and no fault codes, and had a Dynorun with figures at 170HP Flywheel Power.

 

Really like the car so I've been looking at maybe getting the car remapped, having read a few older posts about R-Tech and hearing good things about them, looks also good value for money.

 

Just after any opinions on whether a Remap would be worth doing? against leaving it standard, and with it being standard would I require any upgrades to go to stage 1? and would there be a big difference on MPG return?

 

 

Any replys would be helpful

 

Thanks

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Yes it would be worth it, and yes you would gain mpg...in short.  Being a bit more in depth about it, it depends what you want from your car.  I went for it because I was looking for a smoother power delivery, a bit more poke and better mpg, all of these are fulfilled by a good map.  However, be careful, my first map was bad, of course it felt faster than before so not having owned a turbo car or had a remap before I was impressed.  However over the following months it transpired that the car was overboosting and very surgey and spikey when the turbo came in and then just died off.  This start putting the car into limp mode.  I have since had the remap remapped by Evans Remapping who uses Elite remaps (in Leeds I think) with a stage 1 perormance map and its great, pulls all the way to the top and goes very nicely, still better mpg than standard.  I find this useful particularly in Wales where overtaking safely is very important.

 

Technically speaking you don't have to have upgrades for a stage 1, but some will help to optimise it.  For instance I went for my first map (the bad one, 210bhp) with a Pipercross panel filter in the air box and the car totally happy and fully flushed through with V power nitro+ which you then have to continue to use.  Following that and going for the proper map (220bhp/350nms) I have fitted a larger AUM engine code side mount cooler (this really helped with the higher power and temperatures), done the arch liner vent and had a forge 007 DV (DV is not essential at all but was done through sorting the problems following the bad map).  I would say if you're going for 210bhp or less and have no leaks, no diagnostic issues and car runs well, just go for a panel filter to help it breathe and maybe some good, new plugs NGK platinum, copper or iridium gapped to 0.7mm.  Mine was serviced a week before the map, still need to gap my plugs though!

 

All of the mods noted above have great how to guides posted by forum members and there is loads of info around on here.  I can't speak for R-Tech as I've no experience of them, it pays to shop around I have learned and not just go for the nearest/cheapest.  There is a thread in the performance section about various tuning shops, could be worth a look too.  When I got my car I wasn't really going to mod it, but it is a bug that bites, however performance wise I'm happy, I just want to improve handling and take out body roll now, which has been more noticeable with higher torque and speeds!  Again this can be done quite modestly just by fitting braces and upgrading front roll bars and/or fitting a rear one, and maybe some bushes.  Bear in mind you can always get a map taken off and reset to standard.

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Exactly what these guys have said.. get down to R-Tech and get it remapped with their linear map.

It makes such a difference.. it obviously doesn't transform it into some incredible BMW M5 destroying monster, but it really makes it feel like the car it should be.

It transformed it on the motorway, makes cruising etc so much easier and gives an extra 4~5mpg as well!

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If you're in Leeds go and have a chat with Paul at RS Tuning. http://www.rstuning.co.uk/

 

I had four maps on my vRS before I finally manned up and paid for a decent custom map done on their rolling road.  Yes it did cost more than the some of the competitors out there and some would say it's not worth the extra outlay but it was well worth the money in my opinion.

 

As for the handling, I put a Whiteline RARB on mine and that was enough to be honest.  If you upgrade the front first then you'll induce more understeer and the Octavia has enough of that anyway.  The RARB made the car far more happy to turn in and brought the rear of the car into play which suited my driving style.  I never needed to change the shocks & springs on mine as when I had it the car was too new to warrant the cost and it was our family car so I had to maintain a comfy ride.  Also, to make the vRS handle really well takes a lot of money and it'll always have that big rear end but that's up to you I guess.

 

There has been debate on here for years about the differences between a new OEM panel filter versus an aftermarket such as K&N or Pipercross.  The general consensus was that if you want to go for the aftermarket option then fine but some of the lads running big power stuck with the OEM as they thought it was good enough.

 

As YellowCar mentioned get it serviced, put some decent plugs in and make sure all the hoses are in good nick. Other than that find someone you're happy to work on the car and don't do what I did and try to save money.  The first map popped the turbo which cost me dearly indeed so do your research first.  If you do then you'll love the transformation and the smiles per mile factor is well worth the money.

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Oh dear the slippery slope begins

 

Altho i do agree the vrs should have left the factory with a stage one map on it, it just brings it to life,

 

My clutch expired about 3 months later altho it wasn't the best when i bought it a year earlier,

 

Ive got a stage one shark map on mine and really like it

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Thanks all for the comments really great site, just in the house and some really good write ups and useful info.

 

With the good feedback I will defo be getting a remap done in January all been well... :D

 

Thanks for taking the time.

 

Sparky

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A great man once said if you want a car with more power then buy a car with more power in the first place.  But since I've had 5 cars mapped I can't really claim to live by that statement.

 

Every car had improved power and torque and was driven a bit harder almost all the time and I didn't gain or lose any mpg.

 

I can recomend Celtic Tuning, very good results, very good customer service.

 

As for a panel filter Vs OEM Vs induction cone - On a turbo car running a stage 1 map I bet a dyno wouldn't be able to tell the difference between panel & OEM.  A good cone filter with all the right heat insulation and cold air feed might, just might give 1-2 more ponies at high rpm but seeing that 90% of those installs are wrong and let in hot air you end up with about 5% less but looks good when lifting the bonnet.

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I'd keep the engine mechanically standard if I were you. Use the correct OEM air filter, spark plugs, DV, hoses etc. like you have.

 

Then have your Stage 1 map dropped on by someone like Shark. Maybe even get an STS unit so you can remove the map whenever you want.

 

Stage 1 maps are designed to work on a mechanically standard engine, so you don't NEED anything else.

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A great man once said if you want a car with more power then buy a car with more power in the first place.  But since I've had 5 cars mapped I can't really claim to live by that statement.

 

 

 

I'd heard that advice too so I went out and bought a car with more power.  It's kept me happy for a few months but now I'm looking at a remap on the Vectra having sworn that 'd leave it standard.  I guess you get used to what you've got and unless it's on the lines of a GTR or similar then the desire for a bit more performance will always be there.  As Volvomeg said, it's a slippery slope.....

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I'd keep the engine mechanically standard if I were you. Use the correct OEM air filter, spark plugs, DV, hoses etc. like you have.

 

Then have your Stage 1 map dropped on by someone like Shark. Maybe even get an STS unit so you can remove the map whenever you want.

 

Stage 1 maps are designed to work on a mechanically standard engine, so you don't NEED anything else.

 

Hi, and thanks, yes that's the idea, regarding OEM, and that's sounds like a good idea also, how would that work regarding an STS unit, would you still go down to Shark to put the initial map on? 

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Hi, and thanks, yes that's the idea, regarding OEM, and that's sounds like a good idea also, how would that work regarding an STS unit, would you still go down to Shark to put the initial map on? 

 

 From what i remember it's all done by internet and E-mail, so long as the Web catches on you'll be right.

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One last question, forgot to mention, what do people think about Terraclean, worth it on the Vrs on 100k or not a good idea? or would a good old service be sufficiant before i get a Remap?. 

 

 

Thanks

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One last question, forgot to mention, what do people think about Terraclean, worth it on the Vrs on 100k or not a good idea? or would a good old service be sufficiant before i get a Remap?. 

 

 

Thanks

Service is sufficient. I did however have mine Terracleaned, as it happens by the guy who did the bad map, however there's a lot less to go wrong with the clean, just hook it up and let the cans do the work. If your cat is up to scratch you'll notice very little difference in emissions as the cat soaks it up anyway, however it does clean through to the cat so MAY prolong its life, hard to say exactly. I had mine done because I got the impression the car had been standing for a few months before I bought it.

I notice you say yours was at 170 when you got it dyno'd? A terraclean may get a few off those horses back, thing is you cant say exactly how many, there's no real exact science to it. What I will say is that you will notice smoother idle, probably smoother power delivery, you may notice the reclaimed horses and there should be a gain in mpg, not by much, I noticed about 1 mpg consistently. I suppose what I'm saying is that its not a necessity, but something you could do if you feel the car will benefit. Word of caution though, you have to be sure your fuel system and engine in general is in great health, because even though a Terraclean wont kill your engine, it may highlight and even exacerbate any manifesting issues the car has. Mine was fine, will be of more concern for a Ford for example who use pretty soft injectors. 10 years old or 100,000 miles is a good time to do it, young enough the car to be fairly healthy, but old enough to notice a difference.

If you do it, get the cans for a 2 litre car, the difference will be more notable. You've obviously read some stuff about it so put it all together and have a think. There is also some feedback on terracleans on Seat and VW forums, a lot of Seat drivers have had it done. Like I say it wont kill your engine but be careful. You've probably got a fair idea on where the car is at having had it since the summer and you've got some new sensors in there so it should be ok. Whoever does it should run a scan first anyway to make sure cars in good health.

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Oh its also worth mentioning that cleaning your throttle body is well worth doing if you haven't already, very cheap easy job with potentially big pay off in terms of smoother running and better throttle response.

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Service is sufficient. I did however have mine Terracleaned, as it happens by the guy who did the bad map, however there's a lot less to go wrong with the clean, just hook it up and let the cans do the work. If your cat is up to scratch you'll notice very little difference in emissions as the cat soaks it up anyway, however it does clean through to the cat so MAY prolong its life, hard to say exactly. I had mine done because I got the impression the car had been standing for a few months before I bought it.

I notice you say yours was at 170 when you got it dyno'd? A terraclean may get a few off those horses back, thing is you cant say exactly how many, there's no real exact science to it. What I will say is that you will notice smoother idle, probably smoother power delivery, you may notice the reclaimed horses and there should be a gain in mpg, not by much, I noticed about 1 mpg consistently. I suppose what I'm saying is that its not a necessity, but something you could do if you feel the car will benefit. Word of caution though, you have to be sure your fuel system and engine in general is in great health, because even though a Terraclean wont kill your engine, it may highlight and even exacerbate any manifesting issues the car has. Mine was fine, will be of more concern for a Ford for example who use pretty soft injectors. 10 years old or 100,000 miles is a good time to do it, young enough the car to be fairly healthy, but old enough to notice a difference.

If you do it, get the cans for a 2 litre car, the difference will be more notable. You've obviously read some stuff about it so put it all together and have a think. There is also some feedback on terracleans on Seat and VW forums, a lot of Seat drivers have had it done. Like I say it wont kill your engine but be careful. You've probably got a fair idea on where the car is at having had it since the summer and you've got some new sensors in there so it should be ok. Whoever does it should run a scan first anyway to make sure cars in good health.

 

Hi Yellowcar, thanks for the info, I thought you might reply regarding Terraclean!, :D I remember you gave me some advice on another thread my Dyno Run results.

 

Yes i have read some of the forums and heard good reviews, does seem worthwhile, was just trying to get a few views on the matter, but I guess it will always split opinions on Briskoda!

 

Thanks

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