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Central Locking and removing rear door card

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Just joined because I'm taking on the maintenance of the Octavia 1.9 SDi Classic estate I've owned from new in 2002 and hoping for some sage advice.......

This is the basic model with wind-up windows. The central locking has failed on both rear doors. One of them is locked shut. Even when I removed the small grille trim panel next to the internal door release handle and pulled the door locking "pip" up,  the door would not open. Any advice on that gratefully received.

Had terrible trouble removing the other rear door card. Got the plastic outer shell off eventually but partially broke it in the process. Managed to prise off the winder handle (with great difficulty) but would love to know how the large plastic pull handle is removed to allow the upholstered section of the door card to be pulled away  - does anyone know please so I can remove the door cards completely ?

BTW I sprayed WD 40 liberally over the actuator mechanism on the partially stripped down door - it worked a few times then it failed again. I guess a new unit is needed?

Any guidance gratefully received !

 

  • Author

Hi Rob - sorry for delay in replying - been away on business. Thanks very much indeed.

Having great difficulty obtaining pattern part rear door central locking mechanisms so will do a separate post on that.

Cheers

Simon

Mine came from Ebay US!

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Author

Please does anyone know how to free the rear door outside handle from the door lock mechanism ? I've removed the plastic cover on the rear of the handle (see photo) but it is not the same type as in Rob Clubley's excellent photo sequence.....all advice gratefully received as my patience is at an end after several days struggling with these apallingly designed doors/door cards!

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You need to loosen but not remove 2 locating screws to the north east of the 2 big splines that secure the mech. 2 little holes they are and a tx25 and/or tx20, not sure which. Bottom one unscrews til you feel some resistence then stop (roughly 12 full turns). Top one just unscrew til loose, then wiggle the hell out of the barrel from outside, mine took a lot of effort so just persevere. You can wrap a cloth or bit of card round a flathead and try and start it off with a gentle prise but mainly just shake the **** out of it.

  • Author

Thanks very much YellowCar ! I'll resume battle in the morning when some of my ebbing patience may have returned !

Thanks very much YellowCar ! I'll resume battle in the morning when some of my ebbing patience may have returned !

No worries, mine left me scratching my head because I'd loosened the retaining screws but it just wouldn't come out. Went back to it next day and persevered more and eventually it came out dead easy.

  • Author

I am probably being incredibly thick but I cannot find the two little torx screws you mention.  Are they on the central locking mechanism itself, on the door or on the outside door handle?!  Has anyone got a photo showing these little devils ? Tether and end are closing in on eachother after more than two weeks trying to sort these locks !

They are behind 2 plastic caps on the edge of the door above the latch itself if you struggle ill nip outside and take a pic

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That's the front door but I second guessed myself and went back and took one of the rear too but there's only one cap on the rear door and I've never taken one apart.

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Sorry I can't be of any more help

  • Author

Re-wind!  I've found the torx screw - you get to it by removing the small circular black plastic pip on the lock side of the door - as YellowCar says, just north-east of the big splined screws. On my car there appears to be only one torx screw - and the size is tiny - T10. As it is recessed quite a way inside the door it is very difficult to get the torx wrench onto it.  Skoda maintain their unbeaten record as having the most frustratingly designed doors and door cards in automotive history !

 

A hot tip for opening a locked-shut door if all else has failed:  Get an ordinary domestic hairdryer and on maximum heat, warm the area between the door and the door shut alongside the lock for several minutes. Try the central locking - hey presto mine opened,  allowing access to strip the door cards out and replace the mech (hopefully!) The patience of a saint is also required........

  • Author

Thanks for the confirmation with the excellent pix !

I'll let you know how I get on !

  • Author

Back again :sweat: and more help needed I'm afraid..........

I've loosened the tiny torx screw (actually T15 on the original mech,  T10 on the replacement mech) several turns....anyone know if it comes to a stop at 12 turns as mentioned earlier ? Is the next step to remove the big splined bolts holding the mech in place and jiggle the whole mech around until the linkage with the door handle disconnects?

Once you've loosened the retainers and slid out the barrel, then it's spline time, they can come right out. The mech should sit in position waiting for you to take hold and slide it out. As mentioned have your window open a crack, taped in pisition and undo mech end of the window regulator (2 bolts). The slider leg should just then move enough to get mech past. Still takes a bit if wiggling. I've not done back door so may only be one retainer. If you look in the hole you should see it, if it looks like a barrel then it's quite a lot of turns to a stop, if it's screw like then just loosen, if you feel it start to come out then screw back in 1/4 turn to hold it in place.

  • Author

I've now managed to fix the two new C/L units and they work perfectly. I took photos along the way and have one or two tips to share so when I get chance I'll post them,  Thanks very much for all your help guys

No problem glad you got it sorted.

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