Hi All,

I have just fixed 2 Fabia's electric windows that had the exact same issue and thought I'd share it.

Issue 1. The "one-touch" up or down doesn't work go to answer 1

Issue 2. the "one-touch" up or down doesn't work, and/or the normal up and down pauses or works for an inch.

Answer to issue 1. The one touch cans stop working if the battery has disconnected, this a known process of putting the key in when the doors are shut and putting the key in the drivers lock then holding the key left (wait for window to close, then right and wait for windows to open.

Answer to issue 2: You need to clean the contacts INSIDE the switch mechanism..

a)Prise up the plastic trim containing the electric window switches (you'll break the back clip unless you want to go whole hog and undo all the door trim and get to the back of the clip)

b)unclip the electrical connector and remove it, and take it inside.

c)You'll need a Torx size T6 (or T7) to undo the switch casing from the bottom

d)you need to pull the circuit board out and you'll see the rubber membrane (loads of black dots on it)

e)These get dirty over time. Use contact cleaner spray (basically isopropyl) on kitchen roll to clean both the dots AND clean where they press down on the circuit board.

f)you're done. put it all back together.

You can also use this technique to fix remote controls!

let me know if useful!

 (you'll break the back clip unless you want to go whole hog and undo all the door trim and get to the back of the clip)

 

No need to remove the door trim. There's a small hole under the arm rest to allow a thin screwdriver or similar to be inserted to release the clip.

 

Edited 29 January, 201511 yr by TMB

Learn something new ever day! Thanks TMB.

No probs

Ever come across the problem of neither front window working?

I'd check fuse if none of em where working 

So, I had a go at this yesterday. Sort of.

 

Was considering it, and wondered if worth the trip for the contact cleaner. Thought I would have a look. The reason being that every button but drivers auto down doesn't work. It just stops when I press it.

 

So...first off, I broke the clip. Thought I had it with something in the underside of the handle. Nope. Off comes the housing, with probably too much force, and down the door card the rest of the clip goes. Guess I know what it is if I start to hear some rattling

 

 

Took it inside and opened it up. To me it looks clean, almost new. Nothing on it at all really. Though I don't know what it is supposed to look like.
I noticed that there were different coloured contact points in the rubber. Guess that they work either the auto or hold movement, since it appear to me from the way that it works that they both contact regless of position when down.

 

The rubber contact thing:

Notice the different colours, all look the same to me in terms of not being obstructed/needing cleaning. The ones I needed to look at are the top left two in the set of eight.

 

Circuit board looks ok, I guess. Not that I know any better...

Underside.

 

 

 

So, I am not sure if the contact cleaner would work. Might give it a go anyway, depending on what you think here.

With regards to the broken clip, it doesn't seem to have been too much of a problem, it sits in the housing again properly, doesn't move. That being said, my passenger one moves a bit, wondering if it has had some messing about on it in a previous life...now I know that clip is there, that is what I would guess is the cause for it.

If you have got that far then you'd certainly need to clean it with contact clearer, or neat acohol, or tape head cleaner. It's got to be free of dirt or grease. The runnber part you could probably just wash it like a dish.

The rubber push down on the bronzey pads to make contact to open/close the window.

It could be a case that the rubber side is too far gone for cleaning.

I had the luxury of 2 identical cars to compare/swap.

My faults it fixed were: non auto/ and the passenger window would not move he first time you pressed the button.

Ref clips, most normal people will break them as we don't have x Ray eyes, though the next time you do it you'll know what to expect.

I leave mine broken, just easier to get it off next time I need access.

I think I scratched up the bronsey contacts with a flat blade too.

Also: contact cleaner is just such a handy spray to have, I wouldn't be without it.

Fair point, that was what I was looking for. Maybe I'll give it a go again with some then.
 

I guess the point is, looks clean doesn't necessarily mean is clean.

Edited 22 February, 201511 yr by spgSCOTT

Well, I remembered I had to go to the car anyway, and top up fluids, Figured I'd give it a go again, with contact cleaner this time!

 

And, as you would probably guess, it worked. I now have fully working windows.

 

Have to say thank you for the advice, and the guide. What has bugged me since I got the car, but has been small enough to ignore is now fixed.

 

It really is a simple 10 minute job, if you don't waste time half doing it like I did. Took longer for me to move the car to outside my house (which isn't really necessary, but saves a 3-5 minute walk each time to the car, one of the many joys of London )

Edited 22 February, 201511 yr by spgSCOTT

Fab. Think how many people buy a new one unnecessary!

Same logic on tv remote controls makes contact cleaner worth it's weight in gold.

FYI I did this yesterday as in the 6 years of ownership, the one touch hasn't worked on the passenger window from the drivers control, I used a standard pot scourer pad to roug up the brass contacts lightly and cleaned the rubber pad with some 'elbow grease' multipurpose household degreaser.

I dried off the ruber pad and reassembled and all worked well, so no need to buy anything you haven't got in your house already.

I did it this way knowing that I might kill it completely for the purposes of research

Those gold coloured contacts on the board aren't brass, they're gold plated copper. For obvious reasons the gold layer is extremely thin. Solvent based cleaning likely to produce an as-new surface, pan scoured surface will possibly tarnish if/wherever the underlying copper has been exposed.

It was only a light roughing up. I agree more aggressive, but by no means overboard. Same job effectively