Huskoda said - "Because its not the wheel bolts taking the strain under acceleration and braking, but the friction between the wheel and hub face. The bolts just apply pressure to increase the friction. Lube it up too much and it will just be the wheel bolts supporting the car and they can shear."

 

Sorry, you have got the wrong idea completely. Friction is not the answer as you describe it!

Directional placement and security is provided in the rotational plain by the simple mechanical application of tapered wheel nuts + the corresponding taper in the wheel itself - this applies to both directions = clockwise and anti clockwise.

When you buy your torque wrench always remember to remove any tension and set it to 0NM after every use.

Why?

The spring inside the torque wrench will get tired over a period of time if its constantly under tension, I've got expensive snap on torque wrenches for most general tasks, but you can get some pretty reasonable ones from most diy places, i got a laser one from toolstation for under 30 notes especially to keep in the boot, cheap enough that it doesn't matter if you leave it at the roadside by mistake.

Also remember not to wind it down past '0' as that can mess with the calibration. 

I take it that the reason for not greasing the wheel nuts, etc. is to stop them coming loose?

I have some Loctite Threadlock for securing loudspeaker bolts and T-nuts, would something like this make sense here?

 As said by others, don't use threadlock on any wheel bolts. Also no grease at anytime. The bolts are covered in zinc chromate or other metal coating which 'dry' lubricates the bolts without affecting the torque settings. It also prevents corrosion. If you notice any of your bolt have corrosion forming, it's usually because they have been over torqued which stretches the threads and breaks the protective metal lubricant allowing the corrosion to form. In a case like that, still don't use any grease just clean it and put it back, or replace the bolt. They are cheap to buy from your dealer. 

I use Metal-free (ceramic) paste in wheel bolts and hub lips and have been doing so for years. It will not lubricate or make the wheels come loose. It's basically an anti-seize compound, which prevents metals from bonding.

 

Edited 27 March, 201511 yr by Laars

Why?

Keep the tension in and spring stretches and eventually it loses calibration.

Keep the tension in and spring stretches and eventually it loses calibration.

Unfortunately, I've kept this set at 120Nm for many years!

A few weeks ago I tried to undo bolts that my independent had tightened when they replaced the abs sensor.using my torque wrench in reverse, as I normally do, I could not shift them! I did not want to overstress the torque wrench so didn't swing on it, even then I just felt I could possibly have damaged it.

The independent reluctantly undid the bolts for me with his 1.5 metre breaker bar!!! And when I retorqued, it just felt as if the click came too lightly.

Any easy way to check calibration???

Unfortunately, I've kept this set at 120Nm for many years!

A few weeks ago I tried to undo bolts that my independent had tightened when they replaced the abs sensor.using my torque wrench in reverse, as I normally do, I could not shift them! I did not want to overstress the torque wrench so didn't swing on it, even then I just felt I could possibly have damaged it.

The independent reluctantly undid the bolts for me with his 1.5 metre breaker bar!!! And when I retorqued, it just felt as if the click came too lightly.

Any easy way to check calibration???

Can't remember, I have a firm do mine every 6 months

Xman, if you have used the torque wrench to undo bolts, the torque wrench is almost certainly history. It messes up the spring and release inside. I'd get a new one. Attempts to recalibrate won't fix it. Never use it to undo bolts as the torque required is always exponentially more to undo than it is to tighten, especially over time.

Got all four alloys released by the very friendly and helpful people at ProTyre - many thanks to them.

They jacked the car up on four wheeled trolley jacks.

One guy crouched in front of the wheel while another thumped the rear of the tyre with a rubber mallet.

A couple of thumps and the wheel was off.

They then used a wire brush on a compressed air tool to remove the rust, applied copper grease and fitted the wheel back.

I took the opportunity to swap the wheels front to rear and left to right.

They said the problem was common and suggested that I should remove and re-grease all four wheels every six months.

 

Once again, many thanks to ProTyre, I will certainly use them again when I need new tyres.

bump.  

 

Those that have Skoda  Main Dealer Servicing sometimes find out that the wheels are never removed even though they are paying plenty for the Fixed Servicing offer.

Belts obviously not checked either if they are not visible.

Edited 11 May, 20197 yr by Skoffski

Mine used to stick due to a small amount of rust in the hub face. A little copper grease helps along with a firm back kick onto the side of the wall then spin hit again, spin hit again it will come off easily.