Yellow Peril II, this time its personal

[Vegasphil]

Nice project. Will check back for updates!

[dubDEAN]

PROGRESS IS PROGRESS fingers crossed look forward to seeing it at some shows maybe

[Leeboy]

We need an update I hear you cry...?

Three months on and car is back, well it was back nearly a month ago now. Car went to Clive at CN Tuning for a whole list of work....

K04 stage three turbo from turbo dynamics in Bournemouth,

New rear calipers, discs and DS2500 pads,

Solid mass fly and VR6 clutch,

Big intercooler,

Remap which needs still needs some fine tuning, but oh boy is it quick.

Also other bits and pieces were replaced like maf, throttle body, plugs and front lambda sensor. Idles pretty good now.

Today then finally a dry weekend (well almost, a couple of light showers had to appear) so set about with my own spanners on the front brakes. EBC rotors and DS2500 pads.

Looked up an how-to on YouTube and then...

Then realised I'd put the rotor on the wrong side, so off with the caliper again, that's better...

Took the rear arch liners off to and blasted out all the crud too.

Before:

During:

After:

And the nearside

Back on the deck with new front discs, pads and cleaned wheels

Out for a test drive and get the paint off the discs and start bedding in the pads. Need new fluid and bleeding which is, booked for Thursday, but all seemed well, no vibration under braking.

Edited 5 March, 2016 by Leeboy

[TrevorB33]

Nice what power are you expecting 350?

[Leeboy]

Nice what power are you expecting 350?

It's going to have to stay below three for now, need forged rods if I want to stay into the threes. And it's on old saggy suspension too at the mo.

What's the fantasy green fab knocking out now? Been roughly following your thread on Fabia projects.

[TrevorB33]

It's going to have to stay below three for now, need forged rods if I want to stay into the threes. And it's on old saggy suspension too at the mo.

What's the fantasy green fab knocking out now? Been roughly following your thread on Fabia projects.

I'm back on standard map, had a remap but it was pants, but I'm going on a rolling road on the 19th March hoping for around 160bhp as its only got 3" turbo back exhaust and induction kit,

Your have more potential though with the ko4 hybrid though which is good, for when you get used to the power

[sharkrider]

just seen this and read it, excellent, hoping my engine will end up like that one day!

[OutlawKen]

Glad to see its back mate, makes me wanna grt my parts pile fitted now including your old arb, long live yp1 ha ha

[dubDEAN]

good update  :peek:

[DaveMW]

Nice update but you need some better tyres!

[Leeboy]

Attention now turns to body and interior while still finalising tweaks to engine map. For the original yellow peril I made up a custom grille and I'd thought I'd do the same here.

So spanner off the grille assembly and carefully break it down to its constituent parts.

Then be certain about this before taking an hacksaw to the plastic slotted insert.

Meanwhile I sourced some stainless steel mesh from "the mesh company".

After much snipping and checking together with a bit of gentle bending, the mesh is ready for the grille surround.

Finally, sandwich it in place with the chrome surround. I was going to buy a new one but the local parts counter wanted £50 something for a new one.

I did though put a new badge on (decided to keep the badge as original for the car).

Needs sticking together so will use some tiger seal and rope to tension and hold all together while it sets.

I will also do the tried and tested wide mouth bumper grille mod at some point too.

Edited 26 March, 2016 by Leeboy

[Leeboy]

Grille back on car, now need to look at bumper grilles!

And eyeing up the daily drive

Edited 1 April, 2016 by Leeboy

[Leeboy]

What's occurring next then? It's not just the oily bits that need attention. The interior is pretty grim so needs a good clean and in the case of the driver's seat, some repair too. I've seen plenty of collapsed seat base bolsters so if you're thinking upholstery repair is for the professional, it's pretty straightforward. So my driver seat looks something like this

The leather is still in one piece and it's literally a five minute job to remove the seat from the car.

Then remove the plastic shroud and height adjustment lever which then using fingers alone allows you to unpeeled the rim of the seat base fabric off the pressed steel base

Once peeled back we can see what the issue is...

Probably caught this just in time as the metal has started to rub through the thin under padding of the leather. I'll put a bit of gaffer tape over those wear holes to reinforce it a bit before it goes together.

To remove the cover from the foam base entirely is the tricky bit as you need to unhook rods off the wires embedded in the pad foam. It can be done using long nose pliers.

New seat bases are available from u our friendly dealers / TPS counter but these days are not cheap. £84 + vat, I'm sure they use to be much cheaper.

Part number if interested:

While the cover is off, I've given the fabric a good wash clean and now nearly like new. I need to clean the back rest fabric too, treat the leather then reassemble before returning to the car. More to follow!

[Leeboy]

Done some more today, having had a day off work. Started with stripping out the remaining interior and cleaned plastic bits as I went. Nothing got broken until I dropped the rear ash tray insert on the ground, doh!

Part way in:

With the aim of getting this in:

Didn't fit the new carpet today though as I found a bit of damp in the front passenger underfelt due to a leaky door card. Not too bad and easily fixed.

Next it was time to get the front up on axle stands and change track rod ends as the nearside was on the slack side. Got some original Skoda items but miffed they don't come with a new nyloc nut!

While looking at steering bits thought it time to fit the poly steering rack bush I picked up from a fellow Briskodian. Bit of a swine to remove the old one and then even worst to fit the poly bush. Got there in the end though.

Again while on my back I looked at heat management of the down pipe with some glass fibre heat wrap. I was told to soak it in water first then wrap it in place and it will contract when it dries out so will end up nice and tight. Used a jubilee clip to secure the end of the tape.

Two final jobs for the day left:

Swap out the engine mounts. I figured that to protect the delicate Relentless manifold I need to reduce engine movement under load so to reduce stress going through the turbo and downpipe. So I invested in a pair of Vibratech fast road mounts.

Fitted the gearbox side having first removed the TIP. Got some new stretch bolts from my local dealer.

This also gave me the opportunity to stick on a new KO4 Badger 5 oversized TIP in preparation for completion of the mapping.

Need to look at some of the piping as I've got a bit of kinking to the oil separator but getting there.

Will see if I can get the right hand mount fitted over the weekend along with the carpet.

[OutlawKen]

How much of a difference do these mounts make? Been considering them to aid with me drag racing and track days plus like you wanna reduce engine rock as my miltek downpipe may snap again!

[Leeboy]

Haven't driven it yet but had a read around on Golf and Seat forums and some claim they are as good as a lsd box for reducing understeer and wheel hop. The race versions is apparently to harsh for the road. I will report back in due course.

Edited 30 April, 2016 by Leeboy

[OutlawKen]

Anything to tame wheel hope is a thumbs up in my books, if my stage 1 spins them and bangs the ground as much as it does cars like urs must be rife with it

[Leeboy]

Back to the interior this afternoon. Carpet fitting taking great care not to put any mucky marks on it

Looking good:

Ended up with two torq screws left over so not sure what I missed, everything feels screwed down securely! Still working on getting the seats clean, black dye from the leather keeps bleeding back into the fabric, so will try my water vac after washing and then hair dryer to remove the moisture before the dye starts to bleed back in. I really need a washer vac but don't have one.

[Leeboy]

Drivers seat is back in the car now. To recap, it looked like this, not pretty:

Now looks much better, used a bit of steam to relax the creases out of the leather and have subsequently treated it with some Autoglym leather cream and a top coat of G Techniq leather care stuff. Fabric is pretty clean too now

Left to do on the interior is clean passenger and rear seats, clean front door card then look at the boot area.

Edited 6 May, 2016 by Leeboy

[OutlawKen]

Wow the seat looks brand new! How much was the carpet? Don't think il replace mine but its gotta come out for a deep clean, need a new drivers matt to as ive worn through it

[Leeboy]

Wow the seat looks brand new! How much was the carpet? Don't think il replace mine but its gotta come out for a deep clean, need a new drivers matt to as ive worn through it

Carpet was £278 + Vat frommy local dealer parts counter. So nice and new!

[Leeboy]

Interior is all back together now with everything clean and shiny.

To recap the interior was a bit grotty when I bought the motor...

Now though all clean and lovely. New carpet and mats but the rest is original with a repair to the driver seat.

In the end I found the best cleaning method for the seat and door card fabric is to use a plant sprayer to wet the fabric, then run in some Vanish stain remover soap bar. Give it another spray with water, then gently scrub with a nail brush or similar. Following this, add more water spray and use a wet vac to suck the water and soap out, while wetting regularly.

In saying that the front door cards were showered in the bath with washing powder and a scrubbing bush before being dried off in the greenhouse.

[Leeboy]

And I did buy new pedal rubbers as the accelerator had lost its metal trim

[Leeboy]

Also engine work completed bar repainting the rocker cover and smartening up the inlet manifold.

The exhaust manifold generates a fair amount of heat because of the lack of metal in it. So I took a punt on an Audi TT heat shield to sit higher than the regular item. Nice and bendable so made it fit and was able to use existing studs on the bulkhead.

I then added so heat wrap around the turbo outlet hose and got hold of a coil loom cover. 2.0l TSI coil packs fitted too.

Being dropped off at R-tech tomorrow for the week for a custom map. Will report back!

[Leeboy]

Back from R Tech today and all I can say is MENTAL!

Made 300 / 300 on stock rods and it goes like stink.

A new fuel pump went in while at R Tech and a set of 550 cc injectors and mapping was set to limit top power. Hardware probably capable of 350 bhp / ft lb respectively but not on stock rods, so more in the tank still.

Thinking back to yellow peril number one with its 2.0 l stroke and IHI turbo, this one is a bit more laggy when revs are below 2K but f**k me, one past 2, 2.5K it goes and unlike the old one which would run out of puff at 5K this one keeps shoving you forward all the way to 7K on account of the much better intercooler set up I reckon. The original yellow peril made 325 bhp and 375 ft lb of torque.

It's superb and happy to trundle in traffic without being difficult. Vibratech engine mounts do put a noticeable amount more vibration through the cabin but must certainly help in controlling torque steer as it in no way feels unruly through the steering wheel on what is at the moment old stock suspension with 130k miles under its belt.

One happy camper

Edited 4 June, 2016 by Leeboy