Hi all I have a 2002 vrs with a hybrid turbo and a remap got car in February was fine and boosting to 1.1 bar then last week started only going to 0.5 maybe 0.6 it's only a cheep gauge but don't sea so powerful as before I've checked hoses from pancake etc but can't see any damage car had been fault cleared by garage after they unplugged the maf which I've changed could it have lost the map or am I looking at the n75 valve or the forge 007 recirc it holds boost no problem just don't go up that high I'm baffled ? Any help would be good also anyone know how to remove the pipe clips ?

Thanks in advance

To be honest would just be guessing, it could be a few things. Ideally some logging would be done to help make sense of what the car/ecu is doing. Or it could be something more mechanical.

A faulty n75 isn't too common and tend to produce more erratic boost, can't be ruled out though. You say you have a 007p? What spring is in there? A service of that could be useful, you can get the kit with the revised piston.

Could be MAP sensor, duff MAF (is it a genuine or bosch one you had? Non gen ones can cause problems pretty quick) boost leak, wastegate actuator, none of these would necessarily throw codes until the ecu feels something is way beyond its parameters. You could be running in limp mode, was it any better after turning car on/off? If it is limp mode then you may well have a code relating to it.

As I said kind of clutching at straws a little but try and find someone with vcds (vcds owners map on here) and log boost, intake temps, n75, maf etc. Have you tried running with new MAF unplugged?

Iirc 0.5 sounds familiar as a figure people have when they try unplugging n75 to explore an issue and run purely on wastegate, so could point to that...Anyway, more exploring to be done. At this stage I would double check MAF and pipework, try unplug n75 and see if any different.

Thanks to shed some light I have swoped the maf from my other vrs that I'm selling that runs well it is a Bosch one and had Cardiff tuning connect vag com no codes showing but they did say it could be 75 or the forge I don't know how to service one or get it apart to check spring etc my next thought tomo is to swop the n75 from the other car but not sure how to get clips off the hoses is there a technique just going to replace with jubilee ones see if that better haven't run with maf disconnected or the n75 is it safe to do so? thanks for your advice yellow car I don't really know anyone with software unless there any members local who can help thanks scrod it runs at 0.5 all the time now it's like it's lost the map or its turned off hard to explain really

Ah yes the clips sorry forgot you asked that, the dreaded clips. Awful things. Best bet is wire cutters and snip the ear and then peel off the bit that actually clips. Or a small flathead and prise at the ear and work your way down til it pops free. They are tricky so watch the hoses, be sure to have something to replace it with ready.

Unlikely to be the MAF then, trying a known functioning n75 is a good plan if you can. Just a short run with either disconnected is ok, unplugged maf puts it to a base airflow level where the sensor can't foul things up, so if it runs better the sensor is playing up. Unplug n75 puts it to actuator only, so if no difference, could be n75 as that would suggest it's not functioning because like I said I'm sure that kind of number is what you expect from actuator only. You won't have to drive it for long to see if there is a difference.

When you unplug the MAF it will probably put a warning light up (ABS iirc) don't worry about it, you can clear it by disconnecting battery.

For the 007 you basically just unscrew the top (may need to grip it in a vice though). Service kits are available with O rings, revised piston (better at preventing leaks) and grease, just over ten quid on ebay I think. Spring tuning kits also available. You'll probably have green in which is fine for standard or minor mods, but you need the yellow for remap and higher boost. I've actually gone back to the OEM diaphragm, less noise but also less hassle.

Hopefully there's someone local who can help you log, put out a request in the diagnostics section. I'm sure there'll be someone near your end.

Thanks for all your advice I will try a short run with it unplugged first and see what happens them change the dv with the other one on the other car see if it's that if neither yield reasults then I'llre look at the pipe work again there's just so many but il start at under manifold as common I'm told car only on 88k and been looked after they look pretty good to me but age is a factor so hopefully u can get it sorted then by a new down pipe and remap to stage 1.5 I don't want silly boy spin horses but 225 or so would be nice

Yeah under manifold is a key area and the breathers that go down there from the cold side. To account for that lack of boost though I'd be looking more at the charge pipework between turbo and chiller. Have you noticed a change in mpg by the way?

By the way we've not mentioned worse case scenario yet...The turbo itself. Not meaning to make you panic at all, try the cheap easier things first. Tell you what, you're not a million miles away from Gloucestershire, Bill at Badger5 will run you a diagnostics session and there is rollers there. Think its 60 odd quid for a diagnostics session, would get to the bottom of it in no time probably, in the meantime check what we've outlined here.

By the way mines only done 75k and pipes and perishables have been an issue. Anyway you've got plenty to think about, keep us updated.

Update for you all ran it with n75 disconnected only got around 0.4 undone the metal plate looked at breathers can not see any problems changed the forge dv and n75 getting 0.6 to 0.7 which I believe is standard so even more baffled now as if there was a boost leek surely it would drop ? Tip hose looks ok pancake and intercooler look ok intercooler to throttle look good so now think it's lost it's map somehow as was running fine then just dropped one day my fuel mpg is 31 to 33 on a run but seams pants urban around 17 to 26 stil boosts ok no judder and holds boost no fluctuations so anyone who can help please pitch in if I can't sort it then I'll live with it till I can fit decat or sports cat and get a remap again has a forge air intake sealed can type in it would this make any difference ? If I changed to a open cone filter apart from the sound ?

It is weird how it's around standard figures, if it is a coincidence it's a bizarre one. Mpg does seem a little low but hard to say without knowing circumstances. What I would suggest is get this issue diagnosed, find why it's not right now before you spend money on trying to up the performance. It's dropped for a reason and you need to know why. I'd be tempted to book it in to Badger5 for a diagnostics session, they know these engines inside out. You'd be better off spending 60 odd quid on diagnostics than getting mods. Could save you a fortune in the long run and then you can go for the mods when you know your base level is sound.

I've just spoke to go boost local tuning company to me and I'm going to get it smoke tested and diagnostics on Tuesday if no joy then will try badger 5 but guy did seam to think it's a leek somewhere as rare to loose a map but will no more once test been done fingers crossed it's nothing major or my black vrs will become a doner car instead of a for sale car thanks again

No problem, I think that's the best move under the circumstances, think I've heard of go boost before. Hopefully they'll find something, I reckon they will, fingers crossed for you buddy, be nice to keep one more on the road.

Update car has been to go boost and smoke tested and several dyno runs was leaking from dip stick common fault but apart from that all ok shock though dyno said 130bhp seams to be running lean they did several tests but no other faults found any ideas? Tested fuel pressure and its 2.9 on idel dident do pump test as out of time and money !!! Any thoughts on this they think car running lean so not enough power to boost also boost is slow to build but acuator is ok any help please thanks

Did they do a compression test?

Yes my mech did it last night all cylinders showing twelve so within the range of 9 to 14 thinking fuel filter or pump or regulater now but am a bit lost with it all

Whats the milage ??

 

 

Pumps start to lose there power as they get older, easy to swap though, I've got a few FPR's here in Cardiff, Filters again easy to swap, just watch the clips !! Cost about £6

Yes the clips! Push the button baby! As above definitely worth trying pump and filter especially as it's lean. Think Rob's got a pump how to on his pimp my skoda site, could also be an excuse for an in tank upgrade. Pumps ain't too cheap though, get gen/bosch or do the upgrade with sytec. Could try a known working used one.

Car in today for fuel filter if that not it then I can swop my pumps over and regulator see if that's it if not then maybe upgrade pump injectors and regulator I'm praying it's not the turbo but still think it's the map somehow but will let you know

Update been a nightmare day car has open thermostat so takes a a time to heat new one fitted this week fitted fuel filter has broken clip on pipe retainer on pipe down from tank new one on order should be here wed went on tester still no codes but he did find that the brain was switching the oxegen sensors temp on and off for no reason think it's car not making 95 temp so it's switching sensors on as it think exhaust is cold says they should only be on for a short time when cold then go off mine are switching off and on no idea but all might be part of it she also had new plugs today nkg still only boosting 0.6 on the gage hope once thermostat done it resolves some of the issues

Update been a nightmare day car has open thermostat so takes a a time to heat new one fitted this week fitted fuel filter has broken clip on pipe retainer on pipe down from tank new one on order should be here wed went on tester still no codes but he did find that the brain was switching the oxegen sensors temp on and off for no reason think it's car not making 95 temp so it's switching sensors on as it think exhaust is cold says they should only be on for a short time when cold then go off mine are switching off and on no idea but all might be part of it she also had new plugs today nkg still only boosting 0.6 on the gage hope once thermostat done it resolves some of the issues

Update been a nightmare day car has open thermostat so takes a a time to heat new one fitted this week fitted fuel filter has broken clip on pipe retainer on pipe down from tank new one on order should be here wed went on tester still no codes but he did find that the brain was switching the oxegen sensors temp on and off for no reason think it's car not making 95 temp so it's switching sensors on as it think exhaust is cold says they should only be on for a short time when cold then go off mine are switching off and on no idea but all might be part of it she also had new plugs today nkg still only boosting 0.6 on the gage hope once thermostat done it resolves some of the issues

Have you tried a coolant temp sensor? If that's playing up it can cause all kinds of problems.

Yes changed the coolent sensor with one from vag wasn't that there's seams to be some hesitation before boost or mid boost so I'm thinking fuel starvation so think fuel pump would a s3 or tt pump fit as these look the same and are 225 Lph

Just bang one of these in. Straight swap for the standard pump in the pot:

http://www.motorsport-tools.com/sytec-hi-in-tank-fuel-injection-pump-36mm-in-8mm-out-p30311.html

I still have my standard pump knocking about after I upgraded to the Sytec one. It worked perfectly fine before I wrenched it out. You can try it if you like.

Ok mankee where abouts are you based might be worth trying your old pump first like

I'm over in Ipswich, so I'll have to post the pump out to you. Not a problem though. You'll need to carefully dismantle your existing fuel pump pot to swap the insides over.

 

I think the 4WD S3 or TT pumps will fit, but you need to block one of the pipes up if I remember rightly, as they are a saddle-type to accommodate the 4WD gubbins. I never looked into it properly as I just went the Sytec drop-in route.