Yeti brake bleeding

[muddyboots]

Hi all

 

Couple of questions about brake bleeding, as I'm wanting to flush new fluid through mine:

 

1) Does anyone have access to Elsawin (or whatever the pukka workshop manual is) - if so, any chance of looking up the proper sequence/procedure, incuding if/when to bleed the ABS/ESP pump with VCDS ?

 

2) Does anyone have the handbook to er, hand, to know what spec of brake fluid is recommended ? Not got my handbook with me at the moment.

 

 

Thanks in advance!

[trundlenut]

You don't need to do anything to the abs pump unless you drain the whole system. So you don't need VCDS.

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[KBPhoto]

It would be useful to have the full procedure documented somewhere on here (for fluid change and just for brake pad changes) so that it is there for everyone.

I've looked for full details (with pictures) and can't find sufficient for my needs.

So, challenge to anyone: please can you document a brake fluid change and / or procedures for bleeding during pad change.

Thank you.

[muddyboots]

Yeah I'll have a go at writing it up.

 

Would like to see the Elsawin guide first though!

 

If anyone's able to guide me towards having my own copy of Elsawin, feel free to PM me

[trundlenut]

Yeah I'll have a go at writing it up.

Would like to see the Elsawin guide first though!

If anyone's able to guide me towards having my own copy of Elsawin, feel free to PM me

Try a well known auction site.

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[FlintstoneR1]

This is what I used a few months back when mine needed replacing:

 

Using Gunsons Ezibleed air pressure system to keep the master cylinder topped up and push the fluid through.

Castrol DOT4 fluid.

1) Right Rear

2) Left Rear

3) Right Front

4) Left Front

 

Not saying that's the best or recommended sequence for Yeti. Just what works for me.  Recall says I adopted it from the recommended BMW sequence.

 

I usually try to time a full fluid replace with a pad change if possible. That way, when pushing the pistons back to accommodate the new pads (with a push back tool and an open bleed valve with one way drain gadget fitted) you've already removed the bulk of the old fluid from the wheel cylinders, so there's really just the fluid in the lines left to flush through.

 

Gunsons Ezibleed kit(s) I've used for years. Only replaced my old kit last year because the plastic of the fluid bottle and lines had gone opaque with age, so you couldn't see the fluid any more. New kit was £20 - from Yes Electrical of all places. (Or was it Screwfix? See below!)

Edited 28 April, 2015 by FlintstoneR1

[Frenchtone]

^ Screwfix as well!!

[FlintstoneR1]

Actually it could have been Scewfix I got the Ezibleed from!  Both are next door to each other in my local business park.  More than once I've wandered through the door of one, then wondered why I'm not in t'other!  I claim old age and senility myself!!

 

Not quite as daft as when Father Ted found himself and the other priests in the ladies lingerie section of the dept. store!  But you'll know what I mean I hope?

Edited 28 April, 2015 by FlintstoneR1

[trundlenut]

This is what I used a few months back when mine needed replacing:

Using Gunsons Ezibleed air pressure system to keep the master cylinder topped up and push the fluid through.

Castrol DOT4 fluid.

1) Right Rear

2) Left Rear

3) Right Front

4) Left Front

Not saying that's the best or recommended sequence for Yeti. Just what works for me. Recall says I adopted it from the recommended BMW sequence.

I usually try to time a full fluid replace with a pad change if possible. That way, when pushing the pistons back to accommodate the new pads (with a push back tool and an open bleed valve with one way drain gadget fitted) you've already removed the bulk of the old fluid from the wheel cylinders, so there's really just the fluid in the lines left to flush through.

Gunsons Ezibleed kit(s) I've used for years. Only replaced my old kit last year because the plastic of the fluid bottle and lines had gone opaque with age, so you couldn't see the fluid any more. New kit was £20 - from Yes Electrical of all places. (Or was it Screwfix? See below!)

That's the same bleeding order as my Octavia, so should be right. Though you also need to bleed the clutch first.

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[briskycat]

Here is the procedure from Elsawin.

ChangeBrakeFluid.pdf

[g6zru]

Excellent description, wish my knees would still let me do things like that.

Mods; Could this not be a topic for the Technical Section?

 

Fred

[muddyboots]

Thanks all for the info

 

I did it at the weekend, as follows:

 

Used a new Gunsons Eezibleed as the hoses of my old one were well past their best.

Fluid - Castrol React Performance DOT 4 fluid (a higher boiling point variant).

Sucked as much of the old fluid out of the Master Cyl reservoir as I could (somewhere in the region of 150ml I think - as much as you can get out without removing the gauze strainer thing) and topped that up with new fluid before I started bleeding.

 

Bled in the following sequence:

Rear left

Rear right

Front Left

Front right

 

Didn't measure the exact quantities I took out, but I think it was more or less as specified by Elsawin. I used one-and-a-bit 1 litre bottles. Took more out of the rears than the fronts.

 

All seems fine.

 

Incidentally I'd always been of the opinion that using DOT 5.1 would be a good idea as it's a "better" spec than DOT4 as the minimum boiling point should be higher.

However plenty of online reading has swayed me into thinking I was wrong.

I gather DOT 5.1 has a higher viscosity than DOT 4, which isn't necessarily good when the fluid needs to be shifted around quickly by actions of the ABS/ESP unit.

I think VAG specify their own standard, which seems to be a variant of DOT4 with an even lower viscosity for use in cold climates ? But they say DOT 4 can also be used.

So I've used a "Super DOT4", I think the boiling points of the Castrol React Performance DOT4 are actually higher than the DOT5.1 standard (and therefore probably more fade resistant than the Comma 5.1 I put in a few weeks ago).

Will see how the new fluid and uprated pads hold out at Bedford this weekend!