Frenchtone

Tried that, no joy! However had a poke around in the hole in the back card and yes opened the door, checked its operation and it worked, Have squirted some ptfe lube into it, it now works fine! Maybe caused by carrying 2 x new tyres in the boot area which might have put pressure on the door card and hence a little strain on the lock mechanism thus causing my problem!!

Hi all, I know this has been covered numerous times, but I cannot look for the topic, I am away from home so no computer access. The rear door has first stage released but when i press the button on the door I can hear the second stage release actuating and then cancelling. What di I need to do to open the door and any links to solutions on here please

Yes! Should clear within about half a mile.

^ Yeap, sorry about that --- tired after a morning log splitting and stacking!! :-(

Living in France I still use Michelin Sport SP01's, I have gone from 50 profiles to 55 profiles and yes, I think the ride is a little softer but then again French roads are kept in better condition than are uk roads

Look at your local diy store get a half threaded one, cut off the hex head et voila'probably cheaper than elsewhere, mine works a treat! ;-)

Not very, a runout of the Mk 1, a silver and black 4 x 4 Adventure model, 104k miles, some niggling probs but generally well pleased with it!

Here in mmy part of France garages will replace bulbs for free(job for the apprentice) Do they do the same in the UK?

ABS wheel sensor perhapd?

yes dental floss is good - thats what i used now you have mentioned it!

You could also try thin cord, introduced at the top of the badge and pulled downwards with a slight sawing motion, --- it worked on the rear badge of my Yeti!

A failed ABS wheel speed sensor perhaps?

Perhaps different rules here a la frog!

Ok found my problem, a loose front (uk) n/s wheel, changed by local Profil tyre depot as I have another set of wheels, 2 of which are being reshod by said outfit! A lesson to be learned here, after work like above I will now always check the wheel nuts, And , an interesting conversation with the depot manager to be had monday when I collect the 2 wheels. It's quite frightening when the above situation arises and the possible consequences that could have arisen!!

Got the clamp off and went up to the village, no noise so must have been that -- seriously though did go up the village and yes it was silent, cannot look under the car my trolley jack is bust, a chum has promised a pair of ramps for the weekend!

As previously no noise when the engine is 'pulling' only whencoating or rolling at a non changing speed I now have the tyres, they will be fitted in the near future, as above I will check the propshaft tomorrow!

No, t's a RHD but the fuse board is upside down in the end of the dash panel, took out fuse 16 a 10amp red job, ESC lit up on dash after initial checks, VCDS also showed a problem, replaced fuse and back to normal! Hence my assumption it is a mech prob. I will take the car down to the soft surfaced car park and give the accelerator some welly, done this before to prove the 4 wheel drive is working. Ok, just done the initial take up, and yes 4 x small piles of disturbed parking surface so I assume the the haldex etc is working as it should! My only other thoughts are -- is it the antivibration joints on the front / rear prop shaft? I cannot look under at the moment, my trolley jack has lost some oil, and, a buddy will eventually arrive with some EP90, my usual top up oil! Then I'll have a look under the car at the shaft etc. The car is 11 years old with 100k on the clock, the rear joint was replaced about 3 - 4 years ago.

The problem appears to be mechanical, after removal of the Haldex fuse the clonk persisted -- where now?

(Try disconnecting the wiring connector from the Haldex controller and see if the clonking stops.) Ok, to disconnect the haldex, is the connector at the rear. ie on the haldex unit or somewhere else?

Hi all I have been running on different sized front and rear tyres on my 4x4, 55 profile on rear and slightly over inflated fronts with a profile of 50, whilst awaiting delivery of new tyres. Have covered about 100 miles with this configuration. Today whilst returning home the front nearside(I think) drive started a regular clonking noise whilst coasting, not there on serious driving, haven't had time to investigate yet, tomorrow's job, I think it might be the driveshaft or the cv joint. Any suggestions out there?

It's the 140 and 170 models with separate caliper carriers!

I think, getting you to pay!!! 😉

Why not try taking the fuse for the radio out, its in the engine bay fuse box no. 8 as I recall, for say 5 mins then remount, a reboot might work!

When I changed tyres due to treadnearly out, here in France was as I recall about 99€ a corner, quote for the book recommended size(50) were going to cost 120€ a corner, really a no-brainer!

So, what colour is the rear centre seat, and, how much?