muddyboots

Further update. Previously we'd had an issue with a leaking adblue injector, which resulted in a large white buildup of crystallised adblue in the area. The injector was replaced, and all the visible residue removed - but it seems there was quite an unseen buildup inside the adjacent cambelt cover. I'm suspecting a chunk of this fell off at some point and caused the belt to jump. All cleaned now, new cambelt/water pump, fully serviced - and it's all back to how it should be

Main dealer did Haldex previously, good for a while yet.

Just following this up, as the cause was discovered yesterday. The cambelt had jumped - apparently the cam was 1 tooth out from the crank, and the HPFP 3 teeth out (so I'm told). A quick trial with the cam back in time and it was much quieter. Garage are now fitting new cambelt/tensioner/water pump etc. FSH with Skoda from new (but now at an independent specialist). Cambelt was done previously by Skoda, maybe 3-4 years ago now.

Hi all Long time no post. We have a late 2015/65 Mk3 Superb 150 TDI 4x4. Now on circa 50k miles. Late last year the engine suddenly got noticeably noisier than usual - a very "tappety" / "ticky" sound, very obvious - you can hear it as the car drives down the road. It varies directly with engine speed; it's there from cold but does seem to get a little louder when the engine is warm. Car is driving fine - no change in performance or economy. No oil loss, mayonnaise, coolant loss. Just the noise. It's in the garage at the moment for some diagnosis, after a listen with a stethoscope they say the noise is roughly from the alternator / fuel pump area. I wondered if anyone else had this issue, and if so, what was the outcome ? Many thanks!

I've just found the exact same buildup in ours (MY2016 TDI 150). Had a couple of "Reductant pressure too low" errors recently, popped my head under the bonnet and immediately saw a huge clump of white crystals. I guess when it stops raining I'll clear it all off and see if I can spot where it's leaking. Anyone know how DIY-able replacing either the injector or hose would be ?

Thanks all. Just did some baseline logging with a stone cold, non-running engine and all temps are where you'd expect - so no fundamental sensor issue. I then went for a drive and did some logging. One of the measuring values I was looking at, is "Charge air temperature sensor" (IDE04003). The readings from this are of the format "B1S1/B1S2:23/35". I presume that means "Bank 1 Sensor 1 / Bank 1 Sensor 2". Does anyone know exactly where these two readings are taken ? The first of the numbers rises quickly under higher boost (during prolonged had accel up a hill this peaked around 120degC), whereas the second has relatively little change, typically in the 40degC region. From that I suspect they are the before/after air temps as it passes through the chargecooler. In which case - perhaps all is OK. I wonder if in the freeze-frame data stored with the other fault, when it says "Intake Air Temp" it's actually reporting the air temp between turbo and chargecooler.

Hi all Car is a Mk3 Superb 150 TDi SE L Exec 4x4. DFEA engine code, MY2016. Mileage about 56k. Completely standard. While looking at a separate fault (SCR pump pressure too low) using VCDS, I happened to notice in the freeze frame data that the intake air temperature is wayyy higher than expected - but this in itself it not flagging a fault. I have two sets of freeze frame data from two different days. On both days the ambient was between 0 and 5 degC. Engine speed around 1500rpm, just normal steady driving (no massive acceleration or hills). The air intake temp was been recorded at 91degC and 63degC 🤨 Car seems to drive just fine. Only thing we have noticed recently is that it seems to be doing more frequent regens. (I wondered if an incorrectly high intake air temp might be causing it to overfuel a little and soot the DPF faster? Or maybe that's a separate issue). Has anyone else had this issue with the intake air temps ? Maybe a common sensor fault or wiring fault ? Thanks for any thoughts.

I fitted them to my Yeti a few years ago, I found them just as comfortable (in fact given the old dampers were knackered and thudded/crashed about - it was a big improvement), but with more body control, exactly what I feel our Superb needs.

Cheers, yes already got it in my autodoc basket, just waiting for a day with a better discount!

Thanks

A question for those who have gone down the B6 + stock spring route. When fitting the spring to the damper, did you still have to use the item marked "13" on this diagram, for the bottom of the spring to sit in ? https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/shelf/mpn/5Q0412545D Many thanks!

Fantastic, just the info I was after, thanks. I'd been looking at the parts catalogues on 7zap, but for some reason the part numbers are now deliberately partially replaced with *s so you can't read them exactly. Oemepc seems to bee offline now too.

Hijacking this thread in the hope of picking @Carlston's clearly sizeable spring knowledge Where could I find a complete list of Superb Mk3 springs, showing the paint colour codes, part numbers and PR codes ? I have a MY2016 Superb 150 TDI 4x4 estate (with factory towbar). Front springs have two paint marks, blue and light grey (I think). PR codes: G01, 1JA, 0YF, L07. Am looking at changing dampers, and was half thinking of buying a second set of springs (to match the existing standards ones) so I could pre-assemble struts, and minimise time taken to take the car off the road to fit. Struggling to find a table that ties up the paint codes, PR codes with actual spring part numbers. Not looking at changing to a different spring type or lowering. Only thing I'm considering changing is fitting B6 dampers to reduce the floaty boaty ride. Thanks for any help!

Perhaps in this particular circumstance there's a slight mismatch between the level of engagement and the front/rear diff speed difference, such that there's a tiny bit of tension between the two axles ? Just enough for a gentle thump when it disengages. Perhaps this also explains the slight wheelspin when pulling left/right out of a side street - Haldex is not fully engaged (to allow for the front/rear steering difference) - so less drive to the rear than when front wheels are straight, hence a small amount of front spin. It's a lot less spin than you'd get in a front drive car (as I recall).

It's not reactive in the sense it's waiting for wheel slip. Under certain circumstances (setting off from standstill, or burying the throttle while on the move) it'll engage even if there's no slip. I just remembered a video I made ages ago, one winter when our drive was literally a sheet of ice (so much so I could barely stand up). Not particularly scientific and you can only see one side, but fun nevertheless... d

My Yeti used to do the lurch too, always when pulling out of parking spaces at work - low speed, and lots of lock. My theory was this: - Haldex is pre-emptive, and automatically pre-engages whenever you pull away from standstill (regardless of traction). I remember reading this in the self-study guide. - When you pull away and are turning on a reasonable amount of lock....Haldex is engaged, but you have no centre diff. - Due to the tight turn, front diff is turning faster than rear diff (due to front wheels turning a wider circle, and therefore rotating more compared to rear). - Therefore wind-up is inevitable. There are rubber couplings in the propshaft, and engine mounts are rubber, so some of this windup will be accommodated by flex in the couplings and mounts. - After a short period, the Haldex will decide it's not actually needed, as you're not actually accelerating hard or losing traction - and will therefore disengage - When it disengages, any tension that was built up in the rubber couplings/mounts will release - and I reckon this is the lurch or thump you feel in these scenarios. It also used to do the brief cut-out effect; always on the hill down from our village at a certain point - light or no throttle, and a slight "crest" on the downhill if that makes sense. Did it every single time. Going back to the OP's first point though, about wheel spin - whilst pulling away and turning. Mine used to do this also, even though the Haldex worked fine (regularly tested, especially in snow/ice!!). Our Superb Mk3 4x4 - essentially the same drivetrain (albeit Haldex Gen 5 vs Yeti's 4 I think) - also does exactly the same. Not massive amounts of spin, but a little from the front - only while turning though, like when pulling out of a side road in a hurry. I recently drove a front-wheel drive Octavia hire car, first FWD I've driven for a while, and I forgot just how much I'd got used to all wheel drive and being able to point and shoot and know it'd go !! My current car - an A6 Allroad doesn't spin at all. I can give that full beans (and that's 320 horses) out of a T-junction with a fair bit of lock, and not even the slightest spin. It just goes, no drama. I put it down to the different 4wd systems, the Yeti and Superb being Haldex-based systems with no centre diff, vs the Audi's Quattro with Torsen centre diff. Don't know enough to explain why they behave differently in this situation though.

You'll get nowhere near the price WBAC say you'll get. I got rid of my Yeti through WBAC, was totally honest about history, condition etc but when you turn up, as Zarniwoop says, they'll spot every tiny imperfection and use it to knock the price down. A lot.

I'll echo the pain with the carrier bolts. My failed on my first attempt on my 170 4x4, as I couldn't find a combination of 1/2" drive extensions or flexible joints that would fit through the suspension arms & driveshaft. (Also note I found then I I'd bought the wrong size rear discs, and the EBC Yellow pads - that I'd sprayed black for stealth - were also the wrong ones, so had to abort that too. I still have them sat in the garage, even though I don't have the car any more....) Had to buy a different triple spline tool of a different length to even get on the bolt. Managed it on second attempt, but had to jack the car up really high, so I could get a good pull on the driver bar to crack the bolts loose. They're really tight, and really hard to get to.

I can recommend getting a cheap OBD bluetooth dongle, and using the free "VAG DPF" app on your phone (might be Android only, but I haven't checked in a while). I used to monitor the behaviour of mine a *lot*, had the phone on a screen mount with the app running most of the time - really helps you understand the behaviour of the car & DPF. My 170 used to begin active regens (given the right conditions) when either the measured or the calculated figure met a threshold, which IIRC was somewhere in the region of 18g, but I think this threshold may vary from one model of car/engine to another. There's also a mileage-based trigger, in case the car passively regens well enough to keep the soot loading low all the time, quite a few hundred miles though I think and my Yeti would never ever get remotely near it, it always triggered off soot loading values.

I don't own my 170 any more, but I had it remapped, and fitted Bilstein B6 dampers, EBC Yellow pads all round, and a mildly uprated (1 or 2mm thicker) rear ARB from a Q3. Functional mods rather than for appearance (I wanted it to look completely standard, even to the extent I sprayed the bright yellow pad backs with black heatproof paint to look standard....). It was pretty quick and a real hoot to drive on twisty roads, and really surprised many other drivers, I would go so far as to say it was the most fun car I've had overall; even though my current car (A6 Allroad BiTdi) is far more powerful and a very nice place to sit - I'd say on balance I enjoyed the Yeti more.

I have vague recollections that, somewhere in the hundreds of pages of Richard (BossFox)'s monster Yeti build, he found there was only so far you could drop the Yeti - I think the large arches give the impression it can be dropped a long way, but in reality it couldn't. You'll enjoy reading his thread though trying to find the info. I had the pleasure of being on a track in my Yeti at the same time as his, I think his was only running a measly 3-400bhp at the time (not the 700+ it is now) but clearly remember the speed he flew past me on a straight, and the looks of confused people as his 5-cyl Yeti burbled it's way in/out of the circuit. I also then remember the same people turning to look at mine following behind, with high expectations of another exotic monster, only to be disappointed by it being a standard 170 TDI...

If you're on the ball you can download much pretty much everything you need from Erwin within a 1 hour window. I got all the service manuals, self-study guides, wiring info etc etc for both my Yeti and our Superb in a single one-hour session. There's loads of stuff on ErWin. I seem to recall registering first, having a scout round to understand how the site works, then paying for an hour's access. Then starting as many things downloading in parallel as possible!

I think I still have a set of Rif trims in the garage, just haven't got round to Ebaying them yet. I'll check in a bit.

Might be worth looking into Audi Q3 parts too, as I think that shared the same floorplan as the original Yeti. Maybe some info to be gleaned by comparing parts in online parts catalogues ? Just for example: 7zap Yeti parts - scroll down the bottom of here and you'll see sections relating to seats (I picked a 2014 Yeti, change as necessary): https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/yeti/yet/2014-779/8/ 7zap Audi parts - same for a 2014 Q3: https://audi.7zap.com/en/rdw/audi+q3/aq3/2014-728/8/

Any updates to report Richard ?