Rear track control arm bushings

[gewstarr]

Finally, we did it!

 

Here's a brief summary.

 

First, the other ball joint separator that I bought (after breaking the first) turned out to be much more effective than the first, on this task. I just hammered the back a couple of times and ball joint jumped loose. Second, getting the wishbone out from the bushing turned out to be a real PITA. Eventually, I got sick of this much impossible task, so instead of trying to get it out, I started pulling back and forth, to break it from inside. This was done in like twenty seconds or so on the first (left) side we did, probably because this one was really (really) worn. On the other (right) side of the car, this took some time, and I was about to get worried that it wouldn't be possible.

 

Also tried putting a long metal extension in from behind and hammering on this, but it wouldn't do me much. Finally (after much cursing), I managed to snap the inner part of bushing rubber on the right side as well. However, I can't really recommend this method to anyone. Bare in mind that the console is made of aluminum, and I guess I was just lucky that I didn't crack the console in my aggressive way of bending the wishbone back and forth. In fact, a neighbor that passed by the parking lot when I was doing this explicitly warned me. So, to anyone else up to this task, please, it's really advisable that you get the wishbone out of the bushing in the correct manner. Don't do it my way.

 

Anyways, after getting the wishbone out, I took my (well spent money) special tool for installation/removal and started the process of pulling out the bush. I soon (embarrassing, yeah) realized that a 24 mm socket would not be of much help, after the force screw got tightened so the socket would not grip any more. Unfortunately I did not have any 18 mm spanner at home, so instead of using an adjustable wrench (which I probably could just as well have) I took a break, headed to the shop and bough a real 24 mm spanner (you'll never know when you'll use it the next time, right?) and then I went back to the parking lot and continued.

 

 

Bushing came out easily and I then took a steel brush and some steel wool and cleaned the bushing housing in the console, sprayed it with my X4 all-round fluid. I think you're really supposed to use Molybdenum Disulfide (MoS2) here, but I didn't have any at home.

 

 

Refitting was a pretty straight forward process, thanks to my special tool. I'm not sure how important the alignment is, but I think that you are supposed to install the bush so that the "mark" goes inside, against the console, so I used this alignment, for better or worse, who really knows. I used huge amount of my generic X4 spray, and refitted. Getting the wishbone back in the bush turned out to be hard. I thought I had more or less invented the wheel when I made a banging tool by using the wooden plank from earlier, and the back of an hand-axe. Later, when doing the other side of the car, this method did not work at all, and I was about to give up when I got under the car and really made an effort in waging the wishbone 45° back and forth, and this time it slid in there nicely.

 

As it comes to the fat bolt that you are supposed to do really tight, I'm sorry, but I was too scared of messing up the already damaged threads, so I just couldn't go on with the torque wrench that I actually own. I just used hand force with my regular ratchet. How much did I do? Well, think of when you tighten the two bolts that sits on the axle that holds the rear wheel on an old bicycle. I used more or less the same amount of torque that a normal guy would use in such situation. Yeah, I know, this is totally different from person to person, and that's why there is a specific digit, measured in newton-meters.

 

However, I skipped use motor oil for lube, but sprayed the bolt(s) with my X4 generic spray, and since this acts lubricious (just like WD-40 / 5-556), I thought that using torque wrench would result in incorrect value anyways. I will however check these two bolts in a couple of weeks to see that they are still tight. In a month or so, I will probably get on with the torque wrench. Some people say that you are supposed to tighten these two with the wheels on ground, whilst some say the opposite. I'm not really sure, I tightened them with the front of the car on axle stands.

 

Oh, the new lower ball joint had a Allen key on top of the axle, which you are supposed to hold steady while tightening the nut. I had limited amount of space and no good angle Allen keys to reach, so I lifted the ball joint just an inch or so, using the jack and a power socket. This was enough for the axle to go steady so I could tighten the nut on top of it.

 

Oh, I've scheduled a time for wheel alignment next week. Since I've replaced so many parts of the front suspension, I find this a good idea.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Since I now notice how not only one but two recent forum threads about this very issue has bloomed here on this forum, I hope that these notes and photos maybe will be of help, to someone.

 

Cheers, and big thanks for all your help. I would never have had the courage to fully go through with this project if it hadn't been for the excellent support here.

 

You're all so great, in so many ways. Cheers!

Edited 28 May, 2015 by gewstarr

[theezenutz]

Well done! Even though it was a bit of a pain at least you can have the satisfaction of doing it yourself.

[TMB]

Well done

 

You will know if the wishbone bolts aren't tight enough because you will get a knocking on braking/accelerating, and I doubt they are anywhere near tight enough from your description.

 

They are supposed to be tightened with the car's weight on them otherwise you can end up with torsion in the front (small) bushes.

[theezenutz]

They are supposed to be tightened with the car's weight on them otherwise you can end up with torsion in the front (small) bushes.

I read that too but I'd like to know how your supposed to do it especially if your cars been lowered, I wouldn't be able to do up a spanner. I didn't bother to be honest I just used a breaker bar whist it was up on axle stands. It was the only way I could do it.

 

What was also quite strange with mine was after I had changed them I had two new tires put on the car and the tracking checked, the alignment was spot on. Guess I was just lucky.

[TMB]

I read that too but I'd like to know how your supposed to do it especially if your cars been lowered, I wouldn't be able to do up a spanner. I didn't bother to be honest I just used a breaker bar whist it was up on axle stands. It was the only way I could do it.

 

What was also quite strange with mine was after I had changed them I had two new tires put on the car and the tracking checked, the alignment was spot on. Guess I was just lucky.

 

The way I did it was just to lift the wishbone with the trolley jack so that it sort of resembled where it would be if it was on the ground with wheel on.

[theezenutz]

The way I did it was just to lift the wishbone with the trolley jack so that it sort of resembled where it would be if it was on the ground with wheel on.

That would make sense.