Going on from this... http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/345966-vrs-diesel-need-to-know/

Picked this up today after looking around for a VRS estate for a few months now. It's a 2.0 CR diesel with slightly high miles I think, 116k.

Drove 200 miles home no problem.

Looking to get some mudflaps on it, not spats(if possible), can anyone advise some decent ones??

According to the service book the service interval is QG1/variable length ??.......whatever that is!!     Anyway it appears to have been serviced every 18-20k at Mitchell Skoda in Chester.  So.......what oil should I be putting in it when I change it?

.....and those window deflector things, thinking of getting some, is there a certain make I should get that are good? 

Cheers,

John.

 

Is that a pre-facelift or facelift? I'm guessing it is a pre-FL, but a very rare one!

 

It has the facelift wing mirrors (larger) but pre-FL rear lights (red central reflector strip), older badging and Zenith alloys (rather than the Neptunes).

 

If it is a pre-FL it is a mongrel (strange MkII factory build during the production line change to the FL) and quite rare (very late on a 59 plate)! Pre-FL front end but FL interior (new Climatronic and Bolero stereo).

 

Either way it looks tidy!

 

(Facelift (FL) top, pre-FL, bottom)...

 

 

Rear lights, pre-FL (left), FL (right)...

 

Pre-FL badging:

 

 

FL badging (ignore the Scout badge!):

 

 

Go for OEM mud flaps, Skoda say the rears don't fit the vRS but they do, see here...

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/210575-vrs-rear-mudflaps/?hl=%20vrs%20%20mudflaps

 

There are two service types:

 

1) Fixed - 10,000 miles or 12 months, whichever is reached first.

2) Variable - up to 20,000 miles or 2 years, the car monitors the oil viscosity, number of cold starts, journey times etc. and decides for itself.

 

Your car has a DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) so you have to use the fully synthetic long life / low ash oil which meets the highest VW507.00 specification.

 

Heko wind deflectors are well respected for quality...

 

http://www.e-heko.com/en/

 

Looks like it has had new rear discs recently too.

Edited 26 May, 201511 yr by silver1011

You can go OEM for wind deflectors too but no idea what they're like. My Scout had them but I got the dealer to remove them before collection as didn't want them. Agree with Silver1011 on the mudflats - go for OEM.

It's an interesting combination that. Have never before seen pre facelift rear lights and wheels with FL mirrors. Is the interior FL?

Definitely pre face lift......

silver1011, you've got good eyes!!...yes, new rear discs!!

Cheers for the oil info.... I'll be changing the oil at least once a year, I realise it would be the low ash stuff but thanks for the VAG spec number.

 

One of the very, very last pre-FL cars, enjoy  :sun:

 

Stuby (shorter) aerial too...

Edited 26 May, 201511 yr by silver1011

You have one of the very last pre fl and i have one of the very first fl. Both our cars on same reg.

You have one of the very last pre fl and i have one of the very first fl. Both our cars on same reg.

Our's registered on 7th Sept..........what about your's?

Mmm not sure ill have to have a look

I dont know exactly till i look but i do know its a 2010 59 plate

As you have already stated, switching to the shorter service intervals and using the correct oil is the best thing you can do for that car, at that age and mileage.

 

Has it had a cam belt change yet?

As you have already stated, switching to the shorter service intervals and using the correct oil is the best thing you can do for that car, at that age and mileage.

 

Has it had a cam belt change yet?

Got a service kit from TPS, they were doing a special on quantum long life oil if you bought 20 litres......so that'll keep me going for a couple of years.

Belt kit fitted by dealer at 92k miles/Nov '13

Sounds like a keeper! 

 

 

Looks like it has had new rear discs recently too.

Had the rear wheels off yesterday (mudflap fitting) and had to knock the wheel about to get it off, main dealer servicing all it's life and not a bit of copper grease on the hub or bolts...dry as a nun's chuff.     

Hardy surprising.

My car went in for a "free health check", or whatever Skoda main dealers choose to call it last year. Passed with flying colours. Took it in the very next day for its MOT at an independent and it failed on inside edge tyres worn down to the carcasses. Trusted VAG independent for me for all servicing work from now on!

Never put copper grease on nuts!

It reduces the grip of the threads and can cause bolts to come loose aswell as reducing the torque capacity of the bolts.

So when you torque to 120nm (correct for mk2 Octavia) if the bolts are dry then they will be 120nm tight.

If the bolts are lubed with coppergrease they will not be as tight as they should be.

What you should do to prevent wheels getting stuck on is clean the hub seat and the inside of the wheel where the hub sits then apply a small amount of white grease to the hub seat if any grease at all. Copper grease is horrible and gets everywhere aswell as attracting brake dust etc

Never put copper grease on nuts!

It reduces the grip of the threads and can cause bolts to come loose aswell as reducing the torque capacity of the bolts.

So when you torque to 120nm (correct for mk2 Octavia) if the bolts are dry then they will be 120nm tight.

If the bolts are lubed with coppergrease they will not be as tight as they should be.

 

That's partly incorrect.  If you lubricate the bolt threads then it takes more turns (and therefore more tension on the bolt shaft) to reach 120Nm as you haven't got the drag on the threads.

 

A lubricated thread needs less torque to achieve the same tension in the fastener as a non-lubricated thread.

 

This assumes the non-lubricated thread (both male & female) is clean & free of corrosion & imperfections.

 

The problem with using lubricant on a wheel bolt is it invariably gets on the seat of the bolt which is the friction surface that assists in preventing the bolt coming loose.

 

Personally, I use a tiny bit (half a match head) of grease on the very start of the bolt threads as they generally come out looking corroded  but I also give them a wire brush before use & clean the seating faces with some kerosene or turps (white spirit).  It's probably all a waste of time but it makes me feel good.

Been lubing nuts, bolts and hubs for 25 years now and never had a problem? If I've been doing it wrong for 25 years.......how wrong is it?

Each to their own though.

Been lubing nuts, bolts and hubs for 25 years now and never had a problem? If I've been doing it wrong for 25 years.......how wrong is it?

Each to their own though.

I agree.  It's weird, some people seem to have heaps of issues & others sail through without ever experiencing a problem.

 

My theory is that there's a right way & then there's a dozen corners that can be cut and still achieve the same outcome 95% of the time.

I agree. It's weird, some people seem to have heaps of issues & others sail through without ever experiencing a problem.

My theory is that there's a right way & then there's a dozen corners that can be cut and still achieve the same outcome 95% of the time.

http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=82119

Have a good read through that

Its not just "my personal opinion" It also states clearly on Elsa (The VAG database produced by the manufacturers VW Skoda Seat Audi) not to grease the wheel bolt threads.

http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=82119

Have a good read through that

Its not just "my personal opinion" It also states clearly on Elsa (The VAG database produced by the manufacturers VW Skoda Seat Audi) not to grease the wheel bolt threads.

I'm not disagreeing with you about the lubrication of wheel nuts but you might wish to withdraw the technically incorrect statement that you made in post 15.  Possibly you don't understand the difference between bolt torque & bolt tension?

 

Looking through that link to what is basically another forum of folk similar to this forum - so there's a mix of knowledge.  The Yays V Nays look to be about even with an equal number of technically incorrect statements on both sides.

 

The problem with recommending the use of a lubricant is that most people go overboard with the stuff.

I'm not disagreeing with you about the lubrication of wheel nuts but you might wish to withdraw the technically incorrect statement that you made in post 15. Possibly you don't understand the difference between bolt torque & bolt tension?

Looking through that link to what is basically another forum of folk similar to this forum - so there's a mix of knowledge. The Yays V Nays look to be about even with an equal number of technically incorrect statements on both sides.

The problem with recommending the use of a lubricant is that most people go overboard with the stuff.

Its not an "opinion" where some people think you can grease bolts and others say you shouldn't. The Manufacturer (Skoda/ VAG) say's you CAN NOT grease wheel bolts + Autodata also says the same.. see image below. It doesn't make a difference if you have greased bolts for 25years or more. It is wrong to grease wheel bolts + if the wheel bolts are torqued correctly then they will never be hard to undo. The mating surface should be cleaned including the alloy itself and again the wheels will come off without a problem.

I lube my nuts am i doing it wrong should i lube the shaft?

Its not an "opinion" where some people think you can grease bolts and others say you shouldn't. The Manufacturer (Skoda/ VAG) say's you CAN NOT grease wheel bolts + Autodata also says the same.. see image below. It doesn't make a difference if you have greased bolts for 25years or more. It is wrong to grease wheel bolts + if the wheel bolts are torqued correctly then they will never be hard to undo. The mating surface should be cleaned including the alloy itself and again the wheels will come off without a problem.

 

I'll say it a 2nd time as you are obviously not good at comprehension or reading posts.  I'll dot point it.

 

• I don't disagree with you regarding lubrication of threads & mating surfaces.
• Please remove the technically incorrect statement you have made in post 15. You do know what it is don't you?
• Where did I say anything about "25 years or more"?
• Where did i say that wheel nuts were hard to undo?
• You will note that I made several technically correct statements & then I said "Personally, I do..."  Which is the opposite to the technically correct statements but is my choice none-the-less.  Nowhere did I recommend others doing what I do.

Well guys and dolls, my wheels haven't fallen off!!

 

Been away for the weekend, took a couple of pics.......wife was rolling her eyes and the dog was wondering why we'd stopped!

 

 

 

 

 

So, after going to view a 2017 VRS estate we came away with it and so “old faithful” has now passed into new hands.

With almost 270,000 miles under her belt and still going as well as when we bought it….Sold.

The new car has big boots to fill, I doubt it’ll be as good as the old one??…. time will tell.