1.4 16V AUB EGR service

[Taylor93]

*** UPDATE *** PLEASE SEE THE PDF FILE ATTACHED (POST #4) *** UPDATE *** - All photos were held on Photobucket, but due to a change in their policy, I can no longer direct link them. Please see the new version in PDF format.

 

I know Tech1e did a little write up on this a few years ago, but i thought id do a bit more of a detailed write up with a few more pictures.

With use the engines EGR valve allows soot and gunk to block a feed pipe at the intake manifold. it blocks the EGR flow often causing an EML, Error codes 16785, or P0401 EGR Flow too low/insuffcient.

its a pretty simple job, all you need is:

5mm Hex Bit
6mm Hex Bit
10mm Socket
12mm Socket/Spanner
Torx 45 (Optional)

Loads of Rags
Degreaser/Cleaning agent.

As usual, this is how i did it, i accept no liability if it goes wrong.

Start off removing the engine cover and Air box, there also remove the oil breather pipe connection on the top left of the air box.

Heres the throttle body:

Undo all 4 5mm Hex screws, remove the throttle body.

Be careful not to loose the large rubber O ring in the groove in on the top of the intake manifold. You can see the EGR Pipe in the middle. It becomes blocked over time as the exit holes are on the sides, rather than at the end.

Clean the Intake and the Throttle.

Once ive done this, i then bung it with some tissue to stop debris falling into the intake. and then start to remove the EGR feed pipe. The pictures here i have taken while doing a clutch replacement, but while visibility and access is harder, it shows the location of the screws. Here is the full length of the EGR Feed pipe, on the left hand side we have the EGR Valve itself and it travels over the gearbox to the intake. Bear in mind all mating surfaces have metal gaskets (see list below)

Now the EGR to Intake manifold port has a little pipe underneath, it has two Torx 45 screws holding it to the intake manifold (pointing vertically, see 2nd picture below) but these are a faff to get to, so instead i undo the two 5mm Hex screws which secure the EGR feed pipe onto the intake pipe (circled in red below). It is above the gearbox linkage and the two screws point towards the cambelt end of the engine. Usually there is also an 10mm screw (M6) half way along which secures the pipe the cylinder head, its missing on the car i have photographed.

 

Then i undo the pipe at the EGR valve, there are two ways of tackling this. either Undo the 2 12mm nuts which hold the EGR assembly together (the studs often come out) or under the two 6mm hex screws which secures the assembly to the Cylinder head. Access to the 6mm hex screws can be tricky, and it is easier to unplug the Engine Coolant Temp Sensor to give you a bit more access. In the image below you can see the EGR valve inbetween the circles.

But none the less, if you remove the "EGR Block" i would still remove the two 12mm nuts so that the EGR itself can be properly cleaned out.


Next up unplug the EGR valve, the valve is a solenoid (rather than Vacuum assisted as on the PD engines) but does have a little pipe leading off of it, my understanding is that this is a one way valve to release pressure within the EGR valve itself. Be careful and it should come out alright. Wiggle the assembly out and its ready to clean.

 

There are metal gaskets throughout the system at the following joins

Cylinder head to EGR Block
EGR block to EGR Valve
EGR Valve to Feed Pipe
Feed Pipe to Intake Pipe
Intake pipe to Intake Manifold.

(I hope these names make sense)

Clean it all up, I pay special attention to the small Intake pipe which joins to the bottom of the intake manifold. I spray a liberal amount of cleaner down there and let it flush out onto rags ontop of the gearbox. Once its all clean refit it back together, then refit the throttle body, make sure the mating surfaces are clean and the O-Ring is securely fitted within its groove in the intake manifold.

Torques:

12mm Nuts - 20NM
5mm Hex - 10NM
6mm Hex - 20NM
M6 support screw - 10NM


Once its all back together, the ECU must have a Throttle body and EGR valve adaption to compensate for the cleaning. This is typically done with VCDS.

Then enjoy a cup of tea.

Edited 27 August, 2017 by Taylor93

[Taylor93]

I may have missed some bits, but will update it tomorrow. 

 

 

Hope it helps Lee

[Taylor93]

updated with more photos

[Taylor93]

As Photobucket has edited its Policies, all the photos are removed. Please see updated PDF File:

 

Taylor93’s Guide to Cleaning the EGR system on the 1.4 16V (AUB) Engines.pdf

Edited 27 August, 2017 by Taylor93

[Alsiman]

On 02/06/2015 at 01:54, Taylor93 said:

*** UPDATE *** PLEASE SEE THE PDF FILE ATTACHED (POST #4) *** UPDATE *** - All photos were held on Photobucket, but due to a change in their policy, I can no longer direct link them. Please see the new version in PDF format.

 

I know Tech1e did a little write up on this a few years ago, but i thought id do a bit more of a detailed write up with a few more pictures.

With use the engines EGR valve allows soot and gunk to block a feed pipe at the intake manifold. it blocks the EGR flow often causing an EML, Error codes 16785, or P0401 EGR Flow too low/insuffcient.

its a pretty simple job, all you need is:

5mm Hex Bit
6mm Hex Bit
10mm Socket
12mm Socket/Spanner
Torx 45 (Optional)

Loads of Rags
Degreaser/Cleaning agent.

As usual, this is how i did it, i accept no liability if it goes wrong.

Start off removing the engine cover and Air box, there also remove the oil breather pipe connection on the top left of the air box.

Heres the throttle body:

Undo all 4 5mm Hex screws, remove the throttle body.

Be careful not to loose the large rubber O ring in the groove in on the top of the intake manifold. You can see the EGR Pipe in the middle. It becomes blocked over time as the exit holes are on the sides, rather than at the end.

Clean the Intake and the Throttle.

Once ive done this, i then bung it with some tissue to stop debris falling into the intake. and then start to remove the EGR feed pipe. The pictures here i have taken while doing a clutch replacement, but while visibility and access is harder, it shows the location of the screws. Here is the full length of the EGR Feed pipe, on the left hand side we have the EGR Valve itself and it travels over the gearbox to the intake. Bear in mind all mating surfaces have metal gaskets (see list below)

Now the EGR to Intake manifold port has a little pipe underneath, it has two Torx 45 screws holding it to the intake manifold (pointing vertically, see 2nd picture below) but these are a faff to get to, so instead i undo the two 5mm Hex screws which secure the EGR feed pipe onto the intake pipe (circled in red below). It is above the gearbox linkage and the two screws point towards the cambelt end of the engine. Usually there is also an 10mm screw (M6) half way along which secures the pipe the cylinder head, its missing on the car i have photographed.

 

Then i undo the pipe at the EGR valve, there are two ways of tackling this. either Undo the 2 12mm nuts which hold the EGR assembly together (the studs often come out) or under the two 6mm hex screws which secures the assembly to the Cylinder head. Access to the 6mm hex screws can be tricky, and it is easier to unplug the Engine Coolant Temp Sensor to give you a bit more access. In the image below you can see the EGR valve inbetween the circles.

But none the less, if you remove the "EGR Block" i would still remove the two 12mm nuts so that the EGR itself can be properly cleaned out.


Next up unplug the EGR valve, the valve is a solenoid (rather than Vacuum assisted as on the PD engines) but does have a little pipe leading off of it, my understanding is that this is a one way valve to release pressure within the EGR valve itself. Be careful and it should come out alright. Wiggle the assembly out and its ready to clean.

 

There are metal gaskets throughout the system at the following joins

Cylinder head to EGR Block
EGR block to EGR Valve
EGR Valve to Feed Pipe
Feed Pipe to Intake Pipe
Intake pipe to Intake Manifold.

(I hope these names make sense)

Clean it all up, I pay special attention to the small Intake pipe which joins to the bottom of the intake manifold. I spray a liberal amount of cleaner down there and let it flush out onto rags ontop of the gearbox. Once its all clean refit it back together, then refit the throttle body, make sure the mating surfaces are clean and the O-Ring is securely fitted within its groove in the intake manifold.

Torques:

12mm Nuts - 20NM
5mm Hex - 10NM
6mm Hex - 20NM
M6 support screw - 10NM


Once its all back together, the ECU must have a Throttle body and EGR valve adaption to compensate for the cleaning. This is typically done with VCDS.

Then enjoy a cup of tea.

Thanks