So new to the machine polishing always been a *by hand* polisher but after buying a car that someone must have took to a £5 a go hand wash i realised no matter how much i tired them swirls weren't going to budge by hand. 

 

So i didn't really want to spend silly money on a polisher so i went for a silver line after a few good reviews, some people said they are a bit heavy but I'm not exactly a small person so can handle the weight.

 

So I bought some pads. a waffle pad a white and black pad and the polishing pile style cloth that come with it. 

 

I thought i would start on the bonnet considering that seemed the most effect area not just by chips but also by swirls. After trying to self tech i found that it felt i was doing something wrong. The idea was to take all the internet advice and physical advice from people and go at it like a bull in a china shop. 

 

The pads being new felt far to dry so after using a bit more the thing splattered everything in the vicinity of about a 10m radius. the spread didn't seem to work so after one line of polishing the polish has soaked into the pad and i was then just running a dry pad over the paintwork which didn't seem to be right, so i added a bit more polish

 

Anyone got any advice for the dry pad problem? and the polisher seems to jump sometimes whats that all about? 

 

 

 

 

I had same prob when I did my headlights. I Wet mine using water, got rid of the excess then added a few sprays of a QD, but that was after reading nothing. Just googled how to prime a pad as I was looking for a cheaper way to prime the pad rather than filling it full of polish.

One guide I saw put the polish on the pad then worked it in with a finger to prime it. Then added the polish to work with

If it's jumping pads def too dry, there's some guides on DW for rotary polishing although most would recommend starting with a DA (i didn't)

Lubrication and priming the pad is important

I use Chemical Guys Pad conditioner, but a light spray with water will do also

Always prime the pad ......push in the polish with your finger, but only a small amount...adding more polish is a mistake and don't over wet the pad

When applying to the car, use a very slow speed and work in a small area before you turn the speed up..typically about 60cm squares and work it till the polish starts to go clear (Diminish) with medium pressure

Then turn the speed down again and go over the area with no pressure, just the weight of the machine for a few passes...wipe off the polish with a MF cloth and admire your work

The rotary can be really tricky to control, so keep it slightly angled and ALWAYS keep it moving..keep checking that its not getting hot

 

Hope this helps

Excellent advice from Chris. I used to prime pads with a bit of QD but now I often use some lime prime on dry polishes as it seems to just stay wet and oily. I've still got a silverline and use it for compounding and I can't really fault it for the price

I think the main mistake with rotarys are too much polish which then won't deminish quick enough and that's why you see so many horrific buffer trails on cars in the sun.

A hand polish afterwards may well remove them if you leave any whilst your learning though

Right Jules

Buffer trails are usually easily removed with some finishing polish and a light pad

Is it best to stick to manufacture polish and pads or do you swap them about,example on say a rupes would you just use their polish and pads?

No

I have a Rupes..I don't use their polish, but I have a set of their MF Pads (V Good quality), but not for exclusive use with that machine

Do you not rate there polish what can you suggest light swirls on bonnet.

Ive never used Rupes polish

I use Sonax 4/6 Polish and Scholl S17+

On what car are you wanting to polish?

On my lexus bonnet i own a rupes bigfoot 15 it has light swirl marks rest of car seems fine.

Use a medium pad and polish combo

Should be fine

If i buy sonax would you use the yellow or white pad your expertise is much appreciated.

If you get both;  the medium and the soft, you can use the soft to finish it if you wish

Yes i have both pads is sonax a filler, i will be wiping with isopropanal dilute 50/50 using poorboys white diamond and a wax.

Beautifull weather in york.Gods washing the car again,to be fair lawn could do with a good prolonged soak only drizzling.

No Sonax 04-06 is a pure polish....it will remove swirls rather than fill them

So new to the machine polishing always been a *by hand* polisher but after buying a car that someone must have took to a £5 a go hand wash i realised no matter how much i tired them swirls weren't going to budge by hand. 

 

So i didn't really want to spend silly money on a polisher so i went for a silver line after a few good reviews, some people said they are a bit heavy but I'm not exactly a small person so can handle the weight.

 

So I bought some pads. a waffle pad a white and black pad and the polishing pile style cloth that come with it. 

 

I thought i would start on the bonnet considering that seemed the most effect area not just by chips but also by swirls. After trying to self tech i found that it felt i was doing something wrong. The idea was to take all the internet advice and physical advice from people and go at it like a bull in a china shop. 

 

The pads being new felt far to dry so after using a bit more the thing splattered everything in the vicinity of about a 10m radius. the spread didn't seem to work so after one line of polishing the polish has soaked into the pad and i was then just running a dry pad over the paintwork which didn't seem to be right, so i added a bit more polish

 

Anyone got any advice for the dry pad problem? and the polisher seems to jump sometimes whats that all about? 

 

 

 

 

Just on pad lubrication ideas - i had a chap just this weekend going through the same;

first DA and practice and very unsure how to start on pad preparation and priming.

 

Two pad primers i have on the shelf include... which work really well.

 

Using products like these certainly help reduce the amount of polish on the pad and subsequent waste/sling, etc.

 

http://liquidelementsuk.co.uk/products/pad-prime

 

 

 

and 

 

http://www.cleanandshiny.co.uk/chemical-guys-polishing-pad-conditioner-16oz?language=en&currency=GBP

 

Lubrication and priming the pad is important

I use Chemical Guys Pad conditioner, but a light spray with water will do also

Always prime the pad ......push in the polish with your finger, but only a small amount...adding more polish is a mistake and don't over wet the pad

When applying to the car, use a very slow speed and work in a small area before you turn the speed up..typically about 60cm squares and work it till the polish starts to go clear (Diminish) with medium pressure

Then turn the speed down again and go over the area with no pressure, just the weight of the machine for a few passes...wipe off the polish with a MF cloth and admire your work

The rotary can be really tricky to control, so keep it slightly angled and ALWAYS keep it moving..keep checking that its not getting hot

 

Hope this helps

Duplicate again..... :clap:  :clap: