Replacing front shocks

[schmooser]

Guys/gals - I am faced with the usual "while we had your car we noticed a couple of things" discussion with local skoda dealer after they had the car in to replace the timing belt (2.0 TDi elegance estate).

Tyres I knew about but they also stated that the front shocks were leaking oil.  Been a while since I replaced shocks in a car, but is it the straightforward diy job of:

- jack up front end

- use spring compressor

- unbolt top and bottom of old shock

- replace with new, then reverse above?

Or is it more complicated than that?

 

And although it may be of some interest to many, I am really only interested in how to do the job at the moment rather than a lengthy debate about which shocks to buy . . .!!

 

Cheers

Edited 16 July, 2015 by schmooser

[brad1.8T]

All the front ends are pretty much the same on the Superb, Passat, Golf MK5/6 and Octy2.

 

If you have the right tools & half a clue but haven't done it before then put aside 2 hours per side (but 1 hour/side if you know what you are doing).

 

You'll probably want to do the bump stops, top rubbers & bearings & drop links while you are there but you should be able to inspect these first.

 

There are some stretch bolts which should be replaced... but I don't bother and would probably buy grade 8 standard replacements from the local fastener shop because down here VW parts are overpriced.

 

Apart from the triple square drivers, the only special tool you need is the spreader for the lower knuckle.  You can make one by grinding flats on a bolt

 

Personally, I like Koni Yellow adjustables but that's me.

 

There are heaps of how-to on Youtube

 

Here's an example (He does it the totally right way.  I can do it without undoing / removing the driveshaft)

[schmooser]

Thanks Brad - very useful.  Couple of queries :

 

1 - Is the stretch bolt the one he's removing at the 2 minute mark?

2 - Without undoing the drive shaft would be preferable to me also.  Is it just a case that it's a bit more awkward leaving the drive shaft connected, so perseverence and skinned knuckles will get me there. Or is there more of a trick to getting the shocks out (i.e. compressing springs in situ to allow the shock to be moved upwards?)

 

I will have a trawl of the internet this weekend for more clips such as this (if anyone can point me straight to a Superb II example that would be fantastic!)

Cheers

[WesBrooks]

I'm looking at doing this on mine in a few weeks along with springs on all corners and the rear shocks. Some useful links to help find part codes came up when I asked for help a few days ago.

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/363792-part-numbers-required-for-springsshocks-change/#entry4318534

 

The videos are a great help, thanks!

Edited 17 July, 2015 by WesBrooks

[brad1.8T]

Thanks Brad - very useful.  Couple of queries :

 

1 - Is the stretch bolt the one he's removing at the 2 minute mark?

2 - Without undoing the drive shaft would be preferable to me also.  Is it just a case that it's a bit more awkward leaving the drive shaft connected, so perseverence and skinned knuckles will get me there. Or is there more of a trick to getting the shocks out (i.e. compressing springs in situ to allow the shock to be moved upwards?)

 

I will have a trawl of the internet this weekend for more clips such as this (if anyone can point me straight to a Superb II example that would be fantastic!)

Cheers

1)  I can't remember which bolt it is - I don't bother changing them.

If you look at this quick ref book it gives all the torques & tells you which to replace (I'll let you decide what to do)

 

http://www.norcalmotorsports.org/users/bryan/mods/Golf_R/Tech/2013%20Golf,%20GTI%20&%20Golf%20R%20Quick%20Reference%20Specification%20Book.pdf

 

2)  My way (I'll probably get slammed for this):

• leave the top mount connected
• I don't use spring compressors until the strut is out but that's because mine are too bulky.
• remove the drop link bolts (both sides)
• remove the ABS wire (and any other ancillery gear)
• remove the 3 nuts holding the ball joint to the lower control
• Tie the lower control arm out (pivot downwards) of the way with a strap or rope.
• remove the damper to hub bolt & spread the housing with the home made spreader tool.
• push the hub downward (maybe with you foot).  It's easier with a helper but I've done it by myself.
• it will get to a point where the damper is almost out of the housing (there'll only be 2-3mm remaining).  Get a pry bar or decent long tang screwdriver or similar butchers tool and lever under the damper so it flicks  the hub forward or backwards & the damper rolls out of the hole.
• When the damper is hanging free, undo the 3x top bolts & remove the damper from the vehicle
• It looks dodgy but it works

[wiilydog]

I've done it as per Brad's instructions and it works, just make sure both sides are suspended on axle stands and both sides drop links are disconnected so you are not fighting against the anti roll bar

Also if you have xenons make sure you disconnect the sensors on the wishbone.

Edited 18 July, 2015 by wiilydog

[schmooser]

Thanks as always for all the advice chaps.

 

Turned out there was a rather easy solution to this . . . . . I have a used car warranty policy and had assumed this would be one of the many "no this doesn't meet our criteria" jobs that usually most jobs fall under when trying to get such a policy to pay out.  So, while investigating the DIY parts / approach, got the garage to put the call in to the warranty company and rather surprisingly they agreed to cover the work . . . et voila . . . zero DIY effort, and more importantly zero cost, front shocks replacement!

 

The down side being, of course, that I can't add any "Well when I did it this way, I found it helped to . . . . ." pearls of wisdom to the collective knowledge base.