O3 overheating

[Dalelfc89]

Hi all

O3 VRS tdi with 23k on the clock.

Popped up the road earlier only around a 2m journey and on coming back I noticed the temperature had gone up above 90. I pulled over and turned it off whilst the dial was between 90 and 130.

Water level seems fine and the oil temperature was at its usual ~90oC. Also no visible leaks from what I can see.

Does anybody have any idea what the problem could be?

The temp went back down once I turned the aircon either off or to its hottest.

Supposed to be going camping with the family on Sunday too :-(

[Warkman]

Take the thermostat out and see if that cures it. Could be the stat has gone faulty

[Dalelfc89]

The AA guy said it's likely a water pump or software glitch.

He got to me 35mins after it happened and said the engine was nowhere near hot enough to have overheated. We ran it again with the aircon on cold with the revs held on and couldn't get it above 90 again.

Odd. He's said take it to Skoda and see what they say.. Hopefully they either find the fault and repair it or let me have a courtesy car for when we go away next week.

[FLAPPERJACK7]

Water pump is faulty is my guess. Iirc it has a variable vane setup and it does not work during initial warm up period to allow fast heating to the cabin. I think yours has become stuck. It's quite a bold invention for Vag and let's face it they made mk1 Octavia water pump impellors from plastic which fell apart. Mk2 Octavia water pumps that regularly leak especially common rail engine's. Now the Mk3 which stays in the off not flowing water position.

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[back1980]

Well my car is currently at Skoda Uk in Milton Keynes for another issue.  Since it's been there it's also started over heating for no apparent reason and the guys up there have got no idea why!  But on the over hand I've been informed that although they've done absolutely nothing to it the overheating has now stopped.

[DonjSZ5]

summer flu...

[Dalelfc89]

Thanks for that Flapperjack that's really helpful and would make sense.

Fingers crossed they'll be able to diagnose and fix it or let me have a loan car for the next week.

[1600cr]

That's interesting Dale, my 1.6 tdi has done this a few times now at random intervals/conditions. I don't think it's the water pump sticking as the other morning it reached 120 C on my drive, literally 10s after starting it.

It's shown 125-130 a couple of times on the motorway and on immediately pulling over, nothing is hotter than it should be under the hood. I'm guessing it's either a sensor issue or a problem with the wiring/dash itself.

How long have you owned the car and how old is it ?

[FLAPPERJACK7]

There's also a recall on dash instruments on some models what it's for I don't know but it's a software update on the instrument panel.

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[Dalelfc89]

I've had it since November 2013 and its done 23k.

Mine had reached circa 120 but the oil temperature was fine and under the hood there wasn't any massive heat.

I don't think it was a wiring or sensor issue tho as when I turned the heater on full it cooled the engine down a bit.

Really don't know... It's not filled me with confidence before having to do a 200 mile journey on Sunday though.

[1600cr]

I've done circ. 12K since it first happened, so I wouldn't be too concerned about a 200 mile run.

It's very sporadic and seems complete random.

If I'm on the motorway and put it into neutral to coast when it happens, the temp needle drops as quick as it went up then stays bang on 90 for the rest of the journey and might not happen again then for another 2-3K miles.

Keep meaning to plug in my OBD scanner but by the time I plug it in and connect iPhone it's back to normal levels.

[Gerrycan]

Normally the temperature gauge reading is artificially 'limited' to the 90 degree figure and does not show the actual water temperatures variations that occur in normal operation. Obviously if a real overheating situation occurs then it will be displayed.

Seems standard practice amongst manufacturers to avoid customers panicking at every fluctuation.

You can see their logic as there have been many posts in this forum questioning various oil temperature readings that have been viewed, .

Since there is no corroborative evidence of actual overheating I would suspect sensor or software before pump.

[Dalelfc89]

Normally the temperature gauge reading is artificially 'limited' to the 90 degree figure and does not show the actual water temperatures variations that occur in normal operation. Obviously if a real overheating situation occurs then it will be displayed.

Seems standard practice amongst manufacturers to avoid customers panicking at every fluctuation.

You can see their logic as there have been many posts in this forum questioning various oil temperature readings that have been viewed, .

Since there is no corroborative evidence of actual overheating I would suspect sensor or software before pump.

 

Yeah I do see what you mean. I had a Vectra which used to sit at around 85 but if I went uphill it would rise to around 90-95.

 

I do think it was hotter than intended tho as when I turned the heaters on to full the dial started to go back down again?

[Dalelfc89]

Just spoken with the dealers who have fitted a new water pump and I'll get it back tomorrow.

[Rodge]

Normally the temperature gauge reading is artificially 'limited' to the 90 degree figure and does not show the actual water temperatures variations that occur in normal operation. Obviously if a real overheating situation occurs then it will be displayed.

Seems standard practice amongst manufacturers to avoid customers panicking at every fluctuation.

You can see their logic as there have been many posts in this forum questioning various oil temperature readings that have been viewed.

Why bother labelling it with numbers and graduations every 5 degrees Celsius that don't mean anything then? It's just misleading, implying an accuracy that isn't there. It would be clearer just to have the green and red zones as many (most?) other cars do.

While I'm moaning about the instrument panel, to be consistent the petrol gauge should be labelled either with 0, 1/2 and 1, or 0/2, 1/2 and 2/2, rather than the very inconsistent 0, 1/2 and 1/1. It would be even better if it could be accurately labelled in litres (or gallons).

[Gerrycan]

Why bother labelling it with numbers and graduations every 5 degrees Celsius that don't mean anything then? It's just misleading, implying an accuracy that isn't there. It would be clearer just to have the green and red zones as many (most?) other cars do.

While I'm moaning about the instrument panel, to be consistent the petrol gauge should be labelled either with 0, 1/2 and 1, or 0/2, 1/2 and 2/2, rather than the very inconsistent 0, 1/2 and 1/1. It would be even better if it could be accurately labelled in litres (or gallons).

Even in my advanced state of dementia I am capable of working out what a half or quarter of 50 litres is

It also means they can use the same gauge on different models. such as the Scout which has a 55 litre tank.

Anyway fuel gauges are not always that accurate and should only be used as indicative until you learn each individual characteristics.

[Gromle]

Even in my advanced state of dementia I am capable of working out what a half or quarter of 50 litres is

It also means they can use the same gauge on different models. such as the Scout which has a 55 litre tank.

Anyway fuel gauges are not always that accurate and should only be used as indicative until you learn each individual characteristics.

Where does it say that the Scout has a bigger tank? I cant find it the manual.

And some say that the regular 4x4s also has the 55l tank, do you know anything about that?

[Rodge]

Where does it say that the Scout has a bigger tank? I cant find it the manual.

And some say that the regular 4x4s also has the 55l tank, do you know anything about that?

The brochure says "Fuel tank content (litres) 50 / 55 (4x4)".