On the gauge where you set the tension, it went all the way to the edge of the metal past the gap where it is supposed to sit (if that makes sense).

I readjusted it this afternoon and as soon as I turned the engine on, it jumped to the loose side of the gauge. I've just driven to my mum and dads and back (20 mile round trip), checked it when I got home and it is now showing on the tight side of the gauge.

I don't understand how the tensioner can over tighten itself. If the centre nut was loose for whatever reason, you would lose tension? I can't see how the tensioner could tighten itself from looking at the design? Or am I being a bit thick?

I haven't plugged VCDS in yet that may have to wait until tomorrow now.

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The belt will go tighter and looser depending where it is on the cycle.

Did you locate the tab on the back of the tensioner into the hole on the side of the cylinder head.

The belt will go tighter and looser depending where it is on the cycle.

Did you locate the tab on the back of the tensioner into the hole on the side of the cylinder head.

Yes mate all located correctly.

Tighter and looser to the extent I am seeing?

I've not done much investigating off my own back at the minute so it may be there are more obvious checks I could do which I haven't yet. I need to get VCDS plugged in and check what adjustments are need to the timing as I suspect it can be refined despite running ok currently.

This tensioner behaviour does seem odd to me at first glance but that said I haven't had any experience like this before.

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Possibly not, but enough to make the tensioner arrow move about.

I make sure all the timing pins are removed, turn the engine over a few times and stop turning when it gets to a tough point.

Crack the tensioner nut off and move the tensioner arrow until it's just over the middle of the groove where it should sit, hold it in place while I tighten the nut back up.

Turn the engine over a few more times and generally the arrow never moves again.

Yes you do exactly what I've done lol this part seemed really straight forward.

I'm convinced this will be something which might be caused by my lack of experience but I've certainly not done anything obviously wrong (...he says lol).

I'll check everything again tomorrow.

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Awesome thread to read, if your followers were like that @ 107k wouldn't like to see mine with 151k.

Another picture for your perusal!

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Sorry to hijack this thread but I'm swapping my alternator over tonight and read the tensioner can only be undone by removing the wheel arch liner, is this true or can you get to it from the engine bay.

Cheers.

No you should be able to slacken the tensioner with a swan neck spanner from the engine bay. Just find your fingers! If the belt comes off the crank pulley though you'll need to remove the wheel are liber to put it back on.

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How far is it going on the tight side?

In the manual it states when you tighten the lucknut the tensioner will go slightly on the tight side, it says leave it as it is as when the belt beds in it will return to the correct position.

You set the three cam pulley bolts to the centre position of slotted holes?

My timing was showing -3 on vcds, just be aware you only need to move the cam slightly to alter the figure.

Tensioner appears to have sorted itself out mate, also just adjusted the torsion value to -1.1 and it runs alot smoother now.

Thanks again to all for the input!

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Tensioner appears to have sorted itself out mate, also just adjusted the torsion value to -1.1 and it runs alot smoother now.

Thanks again to all for the input!

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Is -1.1 a recommended setting by someone?

 

I thought getting it to zero was the best?

Is -1.1 a recommended setting by someone?

I thought getting it to zero was the best?

You could well be right there. In VCDS is sets a tolerance of -3 to +3 so Iwent by that and didn't continue to tweak. It does tick over the best it has in the two years I've owned it though after this adjustment tonight! Lol

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You cit is uld well be right there. In VCDS is sets a tolerance of -3 to +3 so Iwent by that and didn't continue to tweak. It does tick over the best it has in the two years I've owned it though after this adjustment tonight! Lol

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Not sure what difference the settings make?

 

Might try mine at diff settings and see how it is

I'm makes quite abit I've found. I always go for close to zero as I can get to around +0.5

No me neither to be honest mate.

All I can say is, back in the day when I had my saxo VTS a bloke called wayne schofield at chip wizards spent a day loosening and tapping the cam pulleys on that car, with it on a rolling road to get the maximum power out the cat cam 708's I had fitted.

Sepulchrave will probably be along soon and tell us!

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I'm makes quite abit I've found. I always go for close to zero as I can get to around +0.5

You must be a precision knocker and tapper to get it that spot on! Lol

I think I might be a bit heavy handed.

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I suspect you chaps will have seen this website but just incase you haven't and might find it useful, I have read loads of good stuff here

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/camshaft-timing-torsion-value-adjustment-on-vw-and-audi-pd-tdi-engines/

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Same as I set it.

I find tipex helps, it's only very slight each time and hard to tell by eye without a slight reference mark.