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Camshaft replacement

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For the chaps that have done this, do you always remove the tandom pump or do you rotate the camshaft 90 degrees once you have remove the timing belt so the key way on the tandom pump is verticle, fit new parts, then turn back 90 degrees?

A clue to what I'm going to be getting up to over the coming weeks...

20150801_124919_zps0gmtez5x_edit_1438429

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This is a very good video guide -

  • Author

Yes I've seen that one thanks mate. I'm a paid member on that site. It's actually a very good site in general for reference.

The guy doesn't remove the tandom pump in that video as I think it's a passat engine and it's easier to do without removing it. I don't think this is the case on the fabia as it is easier to get at the tandom pump.

I don't have one of those twin prong wrenches he uses to turn the cam over in the video and not sure how else best to do it.

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No I don't remove the pump, but it's very awkward to do with it in place.

If you have tools to remove the pulley off the end of the camshaft while its fitted it will be easier.

As above, undo the cam pulley centre bolt before stripping belt etc off and locking timing.

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Thanks chaps, I do have the tool to remove the cam hub/pulley with the cam in situ so that's the approach I'll take.

Do you guys know what that twin armed lever thing is called that the guy used in the above video to crank the cam round with? Or is there another way of doing it?

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When installing a new camshaft, it doesn't sit flat/level, is this normal and just tightening the cam bearing clamps pulling down? It just doesn't seem right to me lol I took the tandem pump off to fit by the way and I've just refitted it.

20150808_150620_zpsnvqyaiia.jpg

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The lobes will always be pushing down on a valve so it won't sit flat.

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Yes is all gone back together fine mate. I've made a million and one reference marks so I don't balls the timing up.

Only issue I'm having now is getting the new bloody timing belt back on. I just can quite seem to get enough slack in it.

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They are a very tight belt!

Leave the small bottom pulley off until the end, it can help.

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Done it mate, been at it since 8:30 this morning and my fingers are going numb lol

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Belts back on, turned the engine over twice by hand and every thing seems to be as it should and lines up with the marks I have made through out the day for rough reference points.

Just having tea then on with reassembly

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Did you pre-oil everything as well?

Just before you turn the key.

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Yes mate been using engine assembly lube on everything as I've been fitting it (cam, bearings, camshaft etc).

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This was the worst follower (compared with a new DLC coated one).

20150808_141130_zpshd9r15ji.jpg

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Yep, that's looks like a problem :D

Good job on fixing it yourself, hopefully she'll run like a dream now.

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The shell bearings (if that is the correct term) were pretty worn as well. Not excessively though I don't think for 107k miles but glad I've put some new ones in there.. I'll post some more pics up later.

Cam didn't look to bad but on close inspection under a bright light you can see slight flat spots on all lobes.

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  • Author

Yep, that's looks like a problem :D

Good job on fixing it yourself, hopefully she'll run like a dream now.

Oh yeah, and thanks very much for the feedback earlier via DM, very much appreciated. I messaged Coskev and he pretty much cam back to me straight away too!

Some very helpful people on this forum!

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no problem :)

No probs ;)

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Well, she lives! All is well apart from now I've had the car running for a bit the tensioner pulley is now showing the belt over tensioned... which is a complete pain in the arse.

I turned the engine over at least 4 times this morning before finally finishing putting everything back together and the tensioner indicator didn't move. Annoyed is not the word! Lol

Is this a normal thing and the tensioner just need readjusting?

I'm going to be replacing the engine mount on Thursday as I noticed it was quite badly perished so I'll do it then I think.

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  • Author

I've noticed the tensioner seems to jump when the engine is started. It jumps initially then settles. I've readjusted the tensioner this afternoon so it was smack bang in the middle of the gauge, but when I started the engine it jumped to be under tensioned. It the settled back towards where it should have been and doesn't move at all now.

Anything obvious I am doing wrong? I am a true have a go here so sorry if I'm doing something obvious stupid! Lol

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I've noticed the tensioner seems to jump when the engine is started. It jumps initially then settles. I've readjusted the tensioner this afternoon so it was smack bang in the middle of the gauge, but when I started the engine it jumped to be under tensioned. It the settled back towards where it should have been and doesn't move at all now.

Anything obvious I am doing wrong? I am a true have a go here so sorry if I'm doing something obvious stupid! Lol

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If it's settled now then just leave it alone, it's an automatic tensioner.

 

You're overthinking this.

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If it's settled now then just leave it alone, it's an automatic tensioner.

You're overthinking this.

Thanks for the guidance, your completely right I'm totally over thinking it. First time I've done anything this intrusive on a car! Lol

I've done everything else like make sure the tensioner nut is correctly tightened. Just might need to tweak the timing slightly.

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How far is it going on the tight side?

In the manual it states when you tighten the lucknut the tensioner will go slightly on the tight side, it says leave it as it is as when the belt beds in it will return to the correct position.

You set the three cam pulley bolts to the centre position of slotted holes?

My timing was showing -3 on vcds, just be aware you only need to move the cam slightly to alter the figure.

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