I noticed a three to four weeks back I'd lost a lot of oil. Topped the engine up with a litre and a few weeks on, at least 500ml has gone/been burnt. I'm hitting 108k on a 55 plate, it's only driven 10-12 miles a day now.

I think I've narrowed it down to two areas, the oil filter itself has a small amount of oil on it, and there is some oil above the filter itself. I'm due for a change in the next couple of weeks so was tempted to see if this one is resolved after the oil/filter change.

The second area I'm more worried about, the left of the engine has a fair amount of oil present, between itself and the air filter housing, most of it is isolated to the pipe work around the 'silver thing' that's under the DV, not sure what component it is.

Is it likely to be leaky pipe work or something more sinister :-(

I have a the shareware version of vag com available, but don't have a clue what values to look at as far as pipe work leakage is concerned.

Edited 8 August, 201510 yr by Funkoid

Usually the tensioner element for the chain tensioner. Quite an involved job if it is. I would clean all the oil off to be 100% sure where it's coming from. Then post a picture.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Usually the tensioner element for the chain tensioner. Quite an involved job if it is. I would clean all the oil off to be 100% sure where it's coming from. Then post a picture.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Not good news :-( I was planning on leaving the oil where it is so I could get the garage to take a look, if it was only pipe work I'd have had a go myself.

Edit - just looking at this now, although the engine layout if different the silver thing I was on about is directly about the tensioner (in the video) http://youtu.be/xdz2BDudmk0

Edit 2 - The second leak is in a similar place to this guy here

Given its going to be a few days (if not week or more) to get to the garage, I presume the engine will be alright if I keep topping it up?

Edited 8 August, 201510 yr by Funkoid

Just topped the car up with oil, and started the engine. It sounds a bit tappier than usual although it's hard to say with the engines being as noisy as they are.

I've pretty much confirmed that I have a small leak from the filter, I could see a drip of fresh oil on the filter start when the engine started so I'm thinking my usual service/filter change may sort that out. It looks to have been possibly flowing up though which has confused me a bit, presume it could just be the pressure and force of air when driving.

I've not had my pickup pipe done yet, so I'm thinking of getting a price for that first and get them to investigate/cleanup the right hand side of the engine.

Sent via tapatalk on phone, excuse the typos!

When you change the filter, before you fit the new one, put a socket on the centre bolt that the filter screws onto as this secures the oil cooler to the block, so there is a second seal above the oil filter.

 

If you look quickly it looks like the filter leaking, when in fact it is the seal just over an inch above it. it is a circular seal exactly like the one on the filter face, so it requires to be tight to seal.

 

If you have a leak by the tensioner, the rattly engine could be the chain rattling due to losing some of the oil pressure to it, there is a small gasket under it that you might need to change. Have you had the cambox off to confirm the leak area at all?.

 

Edit, just seen your post re not having strainer done yet, that really should move to the top of your to do list, as the chain tesioner depends on good flow of oil pressure to work correctly.

When you change the filter, before you fit the new one, put a socket on the centre bolt that the filter screws onto as this secures the oil cooler to the block, so there is a second seal above the oil filter.

If you look quickly it looks like the filter leaking, when in fact it is the seal just over an inch above it. it is a circular seal exactly like the one on the filter face, so it requires to be tight to seal.

If you have a leak by the tensioner, the rattly engine could be the chain rattling due to losing some of the oil pressure to it, there is a small gasket under it that you might need to change. Have you had the cambox off to confirm the leak area at all?.

Edit, just seen your post re not having strainer done yet, that really should move to the top of your to do list, as the chain tesioner depends on good flow of oil pressure to work correctly.

That's really helpful cheers.

The seal above the filter, is that replaceable?

No I haven't had the cambox off yet, really I'd only take it off before renewing the gasket.

Oil strainers at the top of my list, will be doing a filter and oil change next weekend so I plan to sort it then. Can pick the pickup easy enough off eBay, can't find the oring anywhere at the moment so will have to make a trip to the dealers :-(

Edit - looks like you can't pick up single use quantities of the alloy sump sealant now, any alternatives or will a generic do that operates up to 300c?

Edited 9 August, 201510 yr by Funkoid

There is a replaceable seal there as can be seen in this link - http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/drive_unit/1.8_ltr./132_kw_engine_mechanical_components/engine_lubrication/removing_and_installing_parts_of_the_lubrication_system/disassembling_and_assembling_oil_filter_holder/

 

However, normally, just nipping the centre bolt up (sorry, should say nut really as the bolt is hollow and a nut secures the cooler - item 20 in the picture)  to the correct torque cures the leak, but you might be unlucky I suppose.

 

Sealant wise, I have used Loctite 5910, works well, just pay attention to the instructions re curing time and you'll be fine.

 

Also, if you check this page, http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/drive_unit/1.8_ltr./132_kw_engine_mechanical_components/engine_cylinder_head_valve_gear/removing_and_installing_cylinder_head/summary_of_components/  you are supposed to put a little sealant between the camgasket and the head at the adjuster end. Maybe somebody has had it off before and not done this and caused you a weeping leak?.

Sealant wise, I have used Loctite 5910, works well, just pay attention to the instructions re curing time and you'll be fine.

Been looking for a small enough tube, can only fine £35+ tubes of the stuff now :-(

I have used Permatex ultra black in the past and also Loctite 5980 if it helps

 

Edit, which ever sealant you chose, do not use to big a bead as it will spew out of the inside edge of the sump, break off and block the strainer again. This is one of those times where less is more. I personally use a smear method and stop about 2-3 mm from the edge of the sump to allow for spread similar to this picture in this post  #64 http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/225405-trevorb33s-hybrid-sleeper-06-vrs-mk1/page-3, just not so close to the edge, but the official method is to use a bead http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/drive_unit/1.8_ltr./132_kw_engine_mechanical_components/engine_lubrication/removing_and_installing_oil_pan/

 

The choice is yours as regards method, just be economical.

 

Hope TrevorB33 does not mind me using his piccie for an example but I could not find another.

Well I've had the sump draining ready for the pickup pipe change tomorrow. The filter looks to be fine, I've tightened the large nut on the filter housing very slightly but it does seem to be dripping a fair bit. Not sure if it normally does and the new filter goes on too quickly for me to notice.