Hi guys!

Thought I'd share my experience of buying my first Furby, a Mk1 VRS. It's a nice addition to our other Skoda, a Mk1 Octavia VRS. So the best of both from that time period me and the missus thought.

So spent a while searching and found one close to home, 129k on the clock with full croxsdale Skoda service history up until 119k (a mechanic who worked there owned it I've been told). It's got receipts for nearly 4k of worked carried out from the past 15 months, head gasket done and skimmed, gearbox recon, clutch and flywheel, brand new spax rsx coil overs, 312mm brake conversion, recons rear calipers and a couple of other general maintanence bits and bobs.....

So I went to see the car, did all the obvious checks on condition, fluids etc.... (I've been in the motor trade for 13+years) and the car was presenting itself very well. One thing I couldn't do was give the car full boost on test drive because of rush hour traffic.

So arranged a price, handed over my cash and took the car home in a private sale.

To cut what could be a very long story short the kid I bought it off must have steam cleaned the motor and cleaned out the oil filler neck and cap along with flushing the header tank before I arrived.

I found a huge crack in the header tank after my coolant warning light came on. Hoping for an easy fix I replaced it and the cap, but to no avail. The dreaded pressure build up was there and still blowing out coolant, head gasket failure!!!!! Not only that the egr was was spewing oil everywhere and there was mayo under my oil filler cap. Well FFS! Totally gutted. Com.

I've since found (I've always worked with performance cars but petrol only, I haven't the first clue regards diesels) that these cars are common problematic ones for head failure. As such none of my local garages would take on the problem solving for me as of the age and potential of trying to fix someone's bodge job. I spoke to darkside in despiration and they also refused to take this job on.... However they recommended a few things if I'm going to get the car sorted. The following was bought:

*New head gasket

*New head seal kit

*PD 150 head bolts

*thermostatic Oil Cooler kit (original is prone to going porous)

*new timing belt kit and water pump

*egr delete and silicone pipe.

I finally managed to get this all sorted locally (top guys and brilliant service) they informed me that it was more than likely the head gasket as a sniffer test picked up exhaust gasses in the coolant. So I gave the go ahead to removed the head from the block to see the extent of the issue (s).

Head removed resulted in worn cam shells, so they were replaced and valves lapped/reseated. The gasket had never been replaced, it was badly corroded and water passing between two channels causing my issues. (This was the point I ordered gear from darkside with the correct size head gasket). The head was skimmed and pressure tested all came back good so no nasty cracks or issues. Got all the gear fitted and picked my "new" cat up yesterday.

Because of the new cam shells I've been told not to drive the car on boost. The boost pipes and intercooler were full of oil so when I picked the car up it was smoking badly but I understood why. Car now gets up to temp quicker and the heater controls work with hot air once more but after a 15 mile drive home, the car developed a misfire between 2nd to 3rd gear. On idle the car would violently shudder. This didn't happen until I was closer to home though:( it sounds like I may have a boost leak and there's a rotational noise I can hear. Don't know it thats the boost leak facing the drivers wheel though hence the rotational noise. I left the engine running when I pulled up to my house and to my horror the motor was trying to leave it's mounts. It WAS that violent I couldn't believe it. The car is poly bushed too and the dog mount is. So I turned it off and checkEd for obvious issues. Other than the egr delete I dint know what it could be. Is removing the egr and anti shudder this bad? Could that be causing my issues? And to add to that the car feels really sluggish. I could balance my foot on the accelerator prior to the work and the car would pick up. Now its not even pulling until two third pressed. I'm wondering if the maps been lost due to the battery being removed for a week or so?

Well that's where I'm at. The cars getting picked up by the garage for them to check it all over again (and im not blaming these guys as I've had nothing but good communication with hem all the way through the list repair; they've been as honest as they could be). I just hope these issues aren't good money after bad for me as this car is costing me a flipping fortune. Oh and I noticed last night that my key fob no longer locks my doors when it did before. Also if I unlock the car from the drivers door and start the car, there is a delay and the alarm sirens for a second then the car starts up! Wierd eh.

So all you guys are alot more knowledgeable than me. What do you lot make of this? Could it be simple or do I have signs of usual issues with fabia?

Thanks guys

Far from usual issues mate in my experience. The items you have said which you believe to be common problems, I've never heard off before.

I've certainly heard nothing regarding pd130 engines being prone to head gasket failure, even from the guys running over 200 bhp. Had mine mapped for two years and not had a failure.

When the cam shells were replaced did they comment on the condition of the followers and camshaft at all? Now this can be a problem just purely down to the pd engine having cam driven fuel injectors and thin'ish cam lobe (you can read loads on that on line). I replaced my cam and followers yesterday.

Never known a boost leak to have a rotation noise to it. Sure it not something rubbing?

Also, you won't lose a map just through connecting your battery.

In terms of rough idle, I'm experiencing that at the minute and slowly eliminating possible cause.

Does sound like you've bought a lemon but it's not the end of the world. I'd suggest getting yourself familiar with the spanners and doing some of the work yourself, you'll save a bloody fortune in labour.

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Does your rough idle look like this?

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Here are the worn cam shells and followers I took out of mine yesterday, car has done 107,625 miles.

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Hey ash thanks for the reply. I can't check that video right now, really bad reception on my phone but ill check it ASAP and let you know. Cheers

Oh and the garage never commented on the followers matey only the shells being badly worn. Should these have been replaced as a matter of course any way? The Rough idle was never there before the work. As a matter of fact the car behaved perfectly other than the coolant light every now and again. I'm beginning to wonder if it may be electrical I. E a caught/broken wire perhaps.... I defos need to get my hands dirty more often though. Xheers

I had a similar problem with the vacuum hoses being muddled up, going into the black box which is bolted on the d/s shocker top 

Hey Ash checked you video and yes my engine does the same as yours in the video.

The boost leak I might have not have described in the best way. The sound I can hear happens when boost builds (remembering I can't fully load/boost the car yet) it's not a definitive high pitch as I think that when the boost is escaping it my be directed towards the wheel hence the ratational noise. The pitch of the noise doesn't change with speed as per a bearing so I can rule that out.

I've noticed in your vid you still have your anti shudder valve fitted when as mine has been deleted along with the egr. So did you manage to sort all your issues in the end?

Harisleeds, that's the first thing I checked. I straight away thought of a vacuum leak so checked all that but to no avail, all is good there.

Cheers guys

I would have changed injector wiring loom as being disturbed at this mileage and possibly before too the wires do go brittle

I would have changed injector wiring loom as being disturbed at this mileage and possibly before too the wires do go brittle

Hmmmmm I have thought that the loom may have been caught, stretched or damaged during this process. And the fact my alarm has went wierd too :/ big costs involved in replacing it fo you know?.

Cheets

Hey Ash checked you video and yes my engine does the same as yours in the video.

The boost leak I might have not have described in the best way. The sound I can hear happens when boost builds (remembering I can't fully load/boost the car yet) it's not a definitive high pitch as I think that when the boost is escaping it my be directed towards the wheel hence the ratational noise. The pitch of the noise doesn't change with speed as per a bearing so I can rule that out.

I've noticed in your vid you still have your anti shudder valve fitted when as mine has been deleted along with the egr. So did you manage to sort all your issues in the end?

Harisleeds, that's the first thing I checked. I straight away thought of a vacuum leak so checked all that but to no avail, all is good there.

Cheers guys

If it is a high pitched noise, I would be more inclined to think that could be turbo related. Boot leaks are more like slurping through a straw or more whooshing in my experience. I'll post you another file to listen to.

What year is your car mate? BLT engines which came in post 2005 had a separate anti shudder valve to the egr so you could delete the egr and retain the ASV with the right delete kit.

I haven't got to the bottom of my shuddering yet but I'm not ready to give up just yet! :-)

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Have a listen to this sound clip mate, this was turbo related

https://app.box.com/s/hduoybs3fz6kfnwxk46u

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Not bad at all for injector loom £50oddquid plus maybe two hours labour at a push just needs cam cover removing, obviously check faults the shaking/misfire you describe could be throwing a injector fault which would indicate a injector/the loom , the remote not working can be caused by a long battery disconection, they can be reprogrammed in the door lock usually there's guide on YouTube to do it I'm sure

Hi Ash thanks mate. That sound isn't like mine buddy. I did ask when I picked the car up if the belts were in decent nick however the mechanic said that the aux belt (s) were worse for wear. My VRS is a 54 2004 and the egr/anti shudder is all in one :( I think I need VAG COM to analyse things

Not bad at all for injector loom £50oddquid plus maybe two hours labour at a push just needs cam cover removing, obviously check faults the shaking/misfire you describe could be throwing a injector fault which would indicate a injector/the loom , the remote not working can be caused by a long battery disconection, they can be reprogrammed in the door lock usually there's guide on YouTube to do it I'm sure

I'll get on the case of trying VAG COM regards the loom. In ref to the fob, I'll check youtube. Thanks a mill for the heads up on this

The aux belt is easy to change in the gran scheme of things and they are relatively cheap so that shouldn't be too much of an issue. I changed mine yesterday.

You've seen how rough mine idles at times, vag com show nothing in terms of faults, and no anomalies which I've found yet.

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Basically like this you need two keys though

The aux belt is easy to change in the gran scheme of things and they are relatively cheap so that shouldn't be too much of an issue. I changed mine yesterday.

You've seen how rough mine idles at times, vag com show nothing in terms of faults, and no anomalies which I've found yet.

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I thought it might bring something up regards injector iregularities or similar. Aux belts should be straight forward hopefully ill give those a go myself.

Basically like this you need two keys though

Oh ballz I only have one key with this car :(

That's some serious bad luck you've had there!

 

Just a shame it was a private sale as you have very little comeback compared to buying from a trader or dealer. Hopefully you'll be able to get it sorted. 

That's some serious bad luck you've had there!

Just a shame it was a private sale as you have very little comeback compared to buying from a trader or dealer. Hopefully you'll be able to get it sorted.

I know I'm gutted regards the purchase to be honest. But onwards and upwards now. Hopefully this is a teething issue that's a simple fix. If not petrol and a naked flame may well be involved pmsl.....

Well I've just been informed that the car requires a special remap due to the egr delete hence my hesitation/bad vibration from engine. What do you guys make of that? I've been advised to remove the egr delete and run the car with the OE unit refitted. I personally have never heard of this issue and ive sold countless egr deletes to otherwise standard cars in the past :(

Edited 11 August, 201510 yr by Adz_VRS

It doesn't, it just requires the egr function to be turned off so it doesn't throw up the engine management light.

Who has told you that by the way? Where abouts in the country are you situated?

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I'm in the north east matey. The garage who carried out the head gasket replacement passed this info on. Typically I was going to/at work when they arrived (the joys of a 12hr night shift) to check over my car so they delt with the missus. This garage Brought a member of staff from the Performance Diesel Centre and he was the one who concluded my issue. Along with a picking up an aux belt replacement. I don't even think they test drove the car to experience the hesitation/mental vibrations from the engine. From what I gather they could have only been there looking at the car for no longer than 10 minutes - the time it takes me to get to work because as soon as I got to work, my other half was on the phone telling me this.. I'm a bit disappointed in this result considering I've worked for a high performance tuning store for quite some time and to me this sounds more like a fob off. I simply do not agree that the egr delete is causing this issue.

They parted last night by informing my missus I should drive 600 miles or so to bed those shells in and see how it goes. Then try resolving my issue with a remap. Well call me daft, but I'm pretty darn sure the issue will still be there after the map and no doubt will be worse.

I'm well fed up with this car

If they had your camshaft out to replace the shell bearings, they will have had to have had your timing belt off.

Now when they reinstalled everything, they may not have timed it up 100% in terms of checking the torsion value on a bit of software like VCDS. You can do this by eye by using the marks on the camshaft pulley, but it won't be as good as using a bit of software to tell you the exact value.

It basically involves advancing or retarding your timing slightly to bring the torsion value as close to zero.

If this value is too far out you can experience a rough idle, rough start, poor fuel economy etc.

I'd say this would be a good place to start perhaps as it seems more than a coincidence your rough idle started after they had done the headwork.

I've basically regurgitated this from my own learning as I've just tweaked my torsion value after replacing my camshaft, bearings, followers, timing belt, water pump, tensioner etc. My car was running rough, and from the video I posted, you can see historically it has also ran rough! Lol

My car currently ticks over the smoothest it ever has in the two years I've owned it. And my torsion value is -1.1 and not zero! (Will tweak it again tonight).

I'm just speaking from experience mate but hopefully it might give you some steers or ideas.

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