That's where I left it then!

About testing the current draw, as mentioned above.

 

I do it by:

 

Loosen the negative clamp completely, but do not remove.

Turn on meter.

Clip the +ve probe of the meter to the clamp on the negative battery lead.

hold the -ve probe to the top of the battery post.

Lift the -ve lead off the post.

 

You can then read the current draw without breaking the connection meaning you wont lose settings and theres no risk of a surge or spark. You can repeat this many, many times as you go through various circuits without any issues.

 

Also, as I found out just recently on my Subaru, keep KESSY keys well away from the car as I was having a hard time finding out why my car was pulling 0.3A with a load of fuses pulled and the doors locked. Put the keys far away and draw showed a more reasonable 50ma.

Sorry but you are wrong. The radio does not have a code you have to input. It has an internal code that "talks" to the ECU and automatically recognises if it is in the correct car. Yes the warning lights will all come on when you reconnect the battery but they also all extinguish after you have driven for about 20 metres as the "system" resets itself. 

 

Sorry, but it isn't tricky at all. You just plug in either the solar panel or a specifically designed device called a "Code saver", but as said this is not required on the Yeti.

I thought I was wrong one but I made a mistake

I think removing bulb is my best bet. Good idea using phone video to check if lights on. I use solar panel from the AA that plugs into OEBD plug under the dash and turns off at night somehow to stop drain at night - http://shop.theaa.com/store/home/car-battery-solar-charger .

Any solar charger will turn off at night as there isn't enough light to make electricity!

 

Mind you the 4kw panels on the roof of our bungalow will actually produce a small amount of power under a full moon!!

I've been abroad for three weeks with the Yeti parked at Edinburgh airport and keeping track of this thread was making me nervous!

However I'm glad to report it started on the first turn of the key. I have never had to replace a battery on a car because I trade before it is 4 years old. So Graham's earlier post #3 suggesting a life of 4 to 5 years is a fair estimate.

change the battery with a better one.....sometime they die without a reason!

 

 I'm on my 3rd battery in five years!

 

 

REALLY????

 

I'm still on the original battery :yes:

 

I've had Ivor since Sept 2010.

My Skoda Fabia is 10½ years old and still on the original battery.

Had same problem recently, after 4 years of use.

As usual "Llanigraham's " advice is sound.

 

My problem came from installing an After Market Tow Bar, Wiring for Brakes and Anderson Plug had been connected to Battery.

 

Now getting this fixed, Auto electrician advised that he would rewire Plugs to Ignition.

 

Will let you guys know more after I get it Back.

change the battery with a better one!

 

 I'm on my 3rd battery in five years!

 

On the assumption you followed your own advice, it obviously doesn't help then...

Edited 14 September, 201510 yr by freedie

On the assumption you followed your own advice, it obviously doesn't help then...

 you are wrong...

1st  the factory bosch = dead because of **** quality

2nd the substitute bought in order to travel long road without problems

3rd bought with more capacity in order to leave in peace my bonnet for a couple of years...

 

 Who own a Yeti does know that the factory battery is unadeuquate for the vehicle....

I used my advice :coffee: 

The fitted amperage battery is perfectly satisfactory for normal use.

It only becomes a problem when the battery starts to get old or you use it connected to high power equipment like radios, without the engine running, as I do.

The fitted amperage battery is perfectly satisfactory for normal use.

It only becomes a problem when the battery starts to get old or you use it connected to high power equipment like radios, without the engine running, as I do.

 eh eh start and run the car is the 'minimal' use..... every people manage with radio, windows, roof and other device in 2015, so it's unadequate in my simple opinion!

I am not talking about the standard radio, but this:

 

 

That is 2 MSA Safety Frequency Radios, which on the WRGB were on for nearly 12 hours continuously. Even then the car still started. The items you mention are rarely used when the ignition is off!

 

There are several of us here who do the same as this, and I don't think any of us have reported any major problems with the battery.

so I' ll go and visit an exorcist for my battery trouble! anyway changing it with a bigger one isn't a bad thought