my daughters fabia had the engine management light on and when I tested with vag com it says evap fault P0441.

 

It resets but returns a few weeks later.

 

looking at the evap purge solenoid - I took the plug off and with ignition on get @ 3.95 volts. I also checked the solenoid and it is not open circuit.

 

one thing I did find was that you can suck air through it and blow through it slightly with or without power to it which would suggest its not closing completely or opening completely or is this normal to have a small bleed through the solenoid?

 

I think its either the solenoid or the sensor any other tests you think I could do?

Not sure about sensor as everyone else has said they get a problem with aircon not working if sensor has fault but aircon is working all ok.

 

regards

 

cliff

It sounds like your purge valve isn't closing sufficiently well. Try a secondhand purge valve off ebay, they're common to dozens of VW group cars so there's plenty about, so cheap. Check the part number on the existing one, but I'm fairly sure it'll be 6Q0906517.

 

The evaporator temperature sensor, which I think must be the sensor you're referring to, has nothing at all to do with the evaporative emissions system; it's purely making sure your aircon evaporator doesn't ice-up.

Thanks for reply I think the solenoid is stuck open.

 

To anybody that has a fabia 1.4 8v  could you measure voltage at plug to solenoid as I cant see why it is dropped to 3.95 volts? and tell me what yours reads

 

regards

 

 

Cliff

It's going to be a pulse width modulated (PWM) signal rather than a direct current, so your meter reading may be fairly inconclusive. On my 1.4/16v Polo I just measured 1.95V with ignition on, but I imagine the reading will depend on how the particular meter deals with a pulsed voltage.

Thanks

Now off to flea bay to buy a valve

 

Thanks for your help

 

regards

 

cliff

Please let us know the outcome Cliff.

 

checked on ebay but only second hand ones available at moment.

So went to my local breakers and took one off a polo which had a different plug (£2).

slaved it in without having to chop the original plug off so can re-use when proper one gets here. 

 

The car runs great now, my daughter thinks it has more power than before and idles really smooth.

The engine light has not come back on so fingers crossed.

 

Thanks

 

cliff

Ran fine all week and then light came back on cant believe it. 

 

Any other ideas would be welcome

 

can anything be done to the carbon filter ie refurbish it

 

 

where can you buy a filter from and how much are they?

Ran fine all week and then light came back on cant believe it. 

 

Any other ideas would be welcome

 

can anything be done to the carbon filter ie refurbish it

 

 

where can you buy a filter from and how much are they?

 

The carbon canister is part number 6Q0201801B

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-SKODA-VW-CARBON-FILTER-CONTAINER-NO-6Q0201801B-FITS-MANY-MODELS-NEW-/271558101962?hash=item3f3a1fcbca:g:dzAAAOSwxH1T0lXS

 

It is mounted under the drivers side rear wheel arch liner.

 

 

I'd fit a brand new solenoid valve before suspecting the canister though.

It sounds like the wiring to the valve may be brittle.

Sounds like you have an air leak somewhere. Could be the servo pipe has cracked or maybe just the throttle body is clogged with carbon etc. Also whip the map sensor out and give it a clean with carb cleaner. The only check it does to confirm the evap system is to look for the manifold pressure dropping when it asks the valve to open.

It sounds like the wiring to the valve may be brittle.

The fault code refers to a flow problem rather than electrical tho. It would throw an open circuit fault for the wiring or burnt out solenoid

If it helps, I bought a new valve for mine this week from Amazon, £30. At least when you buy new you can be reasonably sure it's not the valve at fault any more.

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00C7P4QA6

 

Weirdly, my engine light didn't come on when I got the fault code you mentioned, just had it on the code reader. Like yours, resetting the code cleared it for a few weeks then it came back. Main symptom was bad bogging down when cold, seems to be better now, although it could be affected by a multitude of things (temperature outside, whether it's recently had a long run that's emptied the canister etc).

 

I also noticed that the wiring to the valve is very tight, so moved the loom slightly so it wasn't so stretched.

Edited 2 November, 201510 yr by wiredsoftware