No PAS

[MechanicallyUnsound]

Hi All,

 

Like so many others, I have PAS problems with my Fabia I. Everything worked fine for eight years but then I parked up with the engine and air conditioning running on a very hot day and when I reversed out of my parking place, my PAS didn't work. For the next couple of weeks, the PAS would only work for the first journey each day and then it failed completely. The PAS light is now on whenever the ignition is on and I've survived the last several months with manual steering alone. But I've had enough.

 

I'm not mechanically savvy. The most complex task I've performed on the car has been a battery swap but I'm prepared to give it a go.

 

I understand that the first thing I need to do is read the error codes. I'm assuming the Fabia I has an ODB2 port. Assuming I'm correct in both those assertions, could anyone recommend an error code scanner that's: a) not too expensive but expensive enough and c) available online (eBay?).

 

Thanks in advance.

[dm222]

How hard is your steering? Can you drive it with only one hand or it is hard to the point that you need both hands at maximum force?

[TMB]

I'm assuming the Fabia I has an ODB2 port.

 

Yeah, pull the little cubby box on the driver's side right down past its stop and the port is behind there.

 

[MechanicallyUnsound]

@dm222 Two hands. It's perfectly driveable once you get going but at car park speeds and on smaller roundabouts, it takes a bit of grunt. I'm getting callouses on my hands - and not in a good way.

 

@TMB Ta!

[dm222]

Then it looks like you need a new pump.

Can also be caused by a bad battery / connections

I guess that driving the car for so long without PAS could damage the rack pinion?

Edited 19 November, 2015 by dm222

[mannyo]

it could also be the steering angle sensor, very common on the Fabia, , but really need a fault scan to be sure.

[dm222]

it could also be the steering angle sensor, very common on the Fabia, , but really need a fault scan to be sure.

 

If it was the sensor the pump would still work but the steering would be harder, that's why I asked if he needed the two hands.

[FinnVrs]

And even if the fault code reader would code G250 something ... So the fault may still be inside the pump .... in this way it was for me. I bought a new G250 sensor fault code is not lost ... I switched the pump so the problems disappeared.

However, I would read fault codes and see the most that the fuses should be undamaged and the battery is in good condition.

Keep in mind if you are considering buying a new pump will first check the pump either by the manufacturer it is either TRW or Koyo. my car was manufactured Koyon which is rarer but I found a used part on the cheap.

The new G250 sensor will pay probably about 120 or 150 Euros depending on the manufacturer either pump you have.

Used Koyon pump cost me about 100 Euros and it has worked well ..

[dm222]

And even if the fault code reader would code G250 something ... So the fault may still be inside the pump .... in this way it was for me. I bought a new G250 sensor fault code is not lost ... I switched the pump so the problems disappeared.

 

 

same as me.

[MechanicallyUnsound]

Thanks everyone.

 

So IIUC, the consensus is that it's most likely the pump, not the sensor. I don't have any doubts about the health of the battery or the charging circuit. Is it still worth going to the effort of buying a fault code reader?

[FinnVrs]

 There is always a reason to buy the fault code reader. I saved money when I got used to solve problems where they have come.
Cheapest VCDS clones from China cost about 25 Euros.
Of course you need your laptop when you use it.
I've done very well of those things because I do not have the newer car models data when I drive an old Skoda

[sepulchrave]

Thanks everyone.

 

So IIUC, the consensus is that it's most likely the pump, not the sensor. I don't have any doubts about the health of the battery or the charging circuit. Is it still worth going to the effort of buying a fault code reader?

 

Not really, just buy a secondhand pump and swap it out.

[dm222]

Thanks everyone.

 

So IIUC, the consensus is that it's most likely the pump, not the sensor. I don't have any doubts about the health of the battery or the charging circuit. Is it still worth going to the effort of buying a fault code reader?

 

In this case I don't think it will make a difference... In the future is always something usefull... One good way to find out that the pump is not working is if you steering is extra hard like seems to be your case.

Another simple test you can do is start the car at idle open the bonnet and try to hear the pump working, you should be able to ear it working if it's good. There: