The AA and RAC now have temp spare wheels to allow you to get garage to get it renewed. I am thinking of getting a full size spare has I would be able to change it myself have copper slipped the locking wheel nuts and the cetre hub check the wheel nuts every week.I know there are pro and cons about copper slip but what good is a spare if you cannot get the wheel nuts off

....have copper slipped the locking wheel nuts and the cetre hub check the wheel nuts every week.I know there are pro and cons about copper slip but what good is a spare if you cannot get the wheel nuts off

I have changed the locking wheel nuts for normal bolts - I dont think theft of alloy wheels is a major issue these days ?

Only puncture I have had recently was due to damaging the side wall of the tyre - not repairable - no mobile signal coverage and several miles from anywhere in the Lake District at night !! 

You should only put 'Copper Slip' on the hub spigot. NOT on the hub face.

I had 3 punctures in my last Yeti out of working hours. The tyre weld and the AA could not fix them. The AA loaded the car onto a lorry and took us to our destination 60-100 miles. The next day they came back and took the car by lorry to a Kwik Fit dealer who replaced the tyre. In other words it took a day and a half to get the vehicle roadworthy again. If I had a spare we would have been mobile in less than an hour.

Also our local tyre dealer says thay have to spend a bit of time cleaning the rim after the tyre weld has been used. How long before they start charging for this. 

My new Yeti has a spare tyre. My advice is carry a spare and a jack.

Picked my 2010 Yeti up on Saturday which does not have a spare. Was a little surprised when they quoted £238 for one. We did buy one for the wifes fabia when she got it and that was only £89

Picked my 2010 Yeti up on Saturday which does not have a spare. Was a little surprised when they quoted £238 for one. We did buy one for the wifes fabia when she got it and that was only £89

To retro-fit a spare wheel, you need not only the wheel & tyre and the chunky hold down bolt, but also a new boot floor plus the boxes that go either side of the wheel that support it. The total cost sounds about right (there may be a labour charge in there for swapping the floors over too, thought it's only a 5 minute job.)

Edited 14 January, 201610 yr by speedsport

This excellent thread in the Yeti Technical Guides forum shows what parts are needed to retrofit a spare wheel - as described by speedsport above.

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/156798-spare-wheel-assembly/

Edited 14 January, 201610 yr by DGW

I am looking at a full size 16" steel wheel (Greenline) from trye leader £30 delivered and about £45 for tyre plus £10 fitting

How does the spare wheel and raised floor interact with a flexible loadliner?

I am looking at a full size 16" steel wheel (Greenline) from trye leader £30 delivered and about £45 for tyre plus £10 fitting

 

Just a word of caution.  The OE 'spare' is in fact a narrow version, rated to 50mph (sorry,but I'm not going to start the car just to move it enough to check it's size!).  I think a full sized standard wheel will lift the boot floor off the surrounding supports.  Someone here produced some figures a while back - anyone remember? 

Edited 16 January, 201610 yr by Brijo

I investigated replacing the optional spare wheel with a full size Origami to match the other 4 OE wheels on my Yeti but binned the idea because of the following problems. The OE wheel is too big too fit in the very small recess in the boot floor and the tyre is 'fatter'. The end result is that the boot floor sits about 1" higher, with a noticeable gap at the rear, and rests on the tyre sidewalls rather than the boot inserts. I would not be happy to routinely carry heavy loads in the boot with the weight resting on the tyre. Also it isn't possible to secure the wheel with the screw retainer since that is not long enough and, if it were, the boot floor would rest on that rather than the tyre or boot inserts.

The thread below has photos illustrating the above.

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/160480-real-full-size-road-wheel-as-spare-wheel-will-it-fit/

I can give a very different reason to have the spare wheel.

Last year our car was the filling in a 3 car sandwich (pile up).

 

Had it not been for the spare wheel in the boot which maintained the structural rigidity of the car, it is very likely our car would have been written off, the damage would have been significantly worse and if we'd had the dog in the boot she would likely have been crushed to death.

 

So the spare wheel proved invaluable on that occasion, plus on the 2 occasions we have suffered flat tyres in the 20 months / 35,000 miles we've had our Yeti (amazingly never had one in the 5 years / 70,000 miles we had our previous S-max which had no spare wheel).

Has mine is a Greenline I could have it with the spare wheel so have the lower floor, when I get the full size spare I will only carry it on long distant on short distant I can get someone to bring it me

Just a word of caution. The OE 'spare' is in fact a narrow version, rated to 50mph (sorry,but I'm not going to start the car just to move it enough to check it's size!). I think a full sized standard wheel will lift the boot floor off the surrounding supports. Someone here produced some figures a while back - anyone remember?

RickT,

What do you call the hub spigot, and the hub face? I may have my copperslip in the wrong places!

Thanks,

Steve.

RickT,

What do you call the hub spigot, and the hub face? I may have my copperslip in the wrong places!

Thanks,

Steve.

 

Does this help;

Thanks RickT it is only on the hub I put a small amount of copper slip. When I was working we used put it on with a 2" paint brush (not on cars)3" studs and bolts but some of them got to hot to put any on as it baked it and took away the air gap and could not be undone

I learnt the hard way that you shouldn't put Coppaslip on the hub face if you have alloy wheels. Copper is quite a bit further down the galvanic series table than aluminium, so the mating face of your lovely alloys will become badly pitted once the winter road salt and rainwater have made a nice salt bath for everything. Leaving the mating face as steel (hub) to aluminium alloy (wheel) isn't great, but it's better than having copper involved. Have you tried a smear of ceramic grease  - the type used on the back of brake pads? It's pretty unreactive.

Thanks RickT it is only on the hub I put a small amount of copper slip. When I was working we used put it on with a 2" paint brush (not on cars)3" studs and bolts but some of them got to hot to put any on as it baked it and took away the air gap and could not be undone

 

It seems you used to do similar work as me. I used to work on large diesels for power stations. (When there was Engineering)

Yes I worked at coal fired power station

I learnt the hard way that you shouldn't put Coppaslip on the hub face if you have alloy wheels. Copper is quite a bit further down the galvanic series table than aluminium, so the mating face of your lovely alloys will become badly pitted once the winter road salt and rainwater have made a nice salt bath for everything. Leaving the mating face as steel (hub) to aluminium alloy (wheel) isn't great, but it's better than having copper involved. Have you tried a smear of ceramic grease  - the type used on the back of brake pads? It's pretty unreactive.

 

It's not really about corrosion,

The surfaces must be clear of lubrication because the clamping force of the wheel bolts creates a high fiction joint between the hub and the wheel to provide the drive (the studs/bolts don't). If you put a high pressure lubricant like Copper Slip between the faces then the wheel can turn on the hub, you then risk shearing off the wheel bolts and loosing a wheel.

I've never lubricated a spigot on any vehicle as there was never a need........is it a salt induced corrosion problem in Europe? (which we don't have) or a 'just in case' procedure?.

It's not really about corrosion,

 

Try telling my Fiat alloys that!

Bit the bullet and ordered a spare wheel kit including the raised floor part from ebay.

 

Do a lot of trips to Wales late at night and don't want to be stuck. If I was just doing local miles I may well have just left the repair gunk and the newly purchased self repair kit in the car. Especially as it cost £235

I have had 2 punctures in 21500 miles over 3 years and also removed 2 screws that didn't penetrate very deep. Bought the spare wheel kit after the first puncture. Didn't fancy being caught out without a spare especially when towing a caravan

Thanks for the advice and info RickT, I must be more careful where I put the copperslip in future!