I found Bosch brake pads to be quite nice in feel and stopping. You will only need one set as it'll be all four pads, ( front right and left wheel). Discs often sell single, often in pairs so check first to be sure. Again, Bosch, Pagid or EBC should be ok. Where you looked was a single disc so two needed. Very worth investing in a brake piston reset tool if you can afford it as it helps push the pistons back in the bore and does it easier then a g-clamp. About £14 should get you one.

 

Cambelt... You could wait six months, you could wait six years, it could snap in six miles! The recommended intervals to change these always er's to the side of caution... Firstly to prevent very costly engine failure, secondly, better turnover of customer maintenance = more profit! (Brake fluid, air- con gas another common recommendation for early replacement). Brakes worn to 80% mean you have 20% left... About 10% to be safe and legal as they will give you the wear level, not the grinding down to the rivets level. Don't rush out and waste a fortune doing them!

 

If that cam belt change was fully inclusive of parts, water pump and VAT, I think I'd pay as its a crap job, if done poorly could be worse then leaving. Too tight will cause wear, too loose and - well you get the picture, big engine failure. The actual belt is only about £20 but the tensioners, water pump, guides needed, etc make £299 seem worth it!  The rear brakes can be a little trickier then the fronts but if they are only a minor problem, there was a post stating the new Haynes manual is due out soon so invest in that and do the tasks you feel you can manage and only pay for what you need!

 

Oops, it was £399 with the water tank! I thought these are meant to be done at 70K any way, and not say...60K miles!

 

Thanks for the advice RE: brake details. I dont intend to do this myself tbh

There are lots of tutorials on youtube that explain how all the mechanics on cars work. Perhaps it would be a good idea to educate yourself. Heres 2 to start with that explain a basic diesel engine like yours. After that I would find out how the cam belt / timeing belts works and you wil see how important it is to change that before it fails. The guy in the first video pronounces valves a bit funny (voles) but its still a good explanation.

 

 

Thanks for those links. Tbh, I know a little, but not loads. Always wanna learn tho!

 

BTW, What was the issue with your DPF?

 

I bought it in November and it required manual regeneration, as I guess the guy before me didn't use it on the motorway :( (And I go up north at least once/month - 230 miles one way)

So you would first have to send the car in for a proper, full inspection to see if all those parts are needed, then order all the parts it needs and wait for them to come in, then go back and have them fitted. Firstly that's too much effort to justify by any means as like said above those prices arent massively exaggerated, and for three trips to the dealers that's just wasting time effort and money, cutting your nose off to spite your face so to say. If it isn't under warranty then order mon genuine parts and go indipendant, or go I do and get them to get the parts at trade prices. Secondly, is your car still under warranty? If so and you order your own parts then when you take the parts back they may not accept them as genuine as you could have swapped them and they may effect your warranty. So either go to the dealers and get them to do the job or go somewhere else. End of.

Tbf, it currently does have an RAC warranty that I havent utilised

The problem with a good run is, if you still do the slower stuff, it will still fill the DPF as it only really clears on a full regen so if its not needing a regen, the longer drive will stop it filling but may not burn off whats already there. 

 

I've had times where I drove a 100 mile round trip, at a reasonable pace, then after not too much stop start, needed to regen anyway! When it DOES need a region, try not to drive in conditions that will allow the filter to block up and set off the limp mode... Stuck in traffic, etc. Get a good run as soon as possible and avoid doing small runs and turning off, restarting again until you clear the light. I guess you got charged in the regen -oops, region of £180 to manually force the regen. If its getting a little over full and not cleaning fully and needs a forced regen more then once or twice, I'd seriously think of getting the DPF changed or removed as its a slippery slope to expensiville, with a detour to off-the road-awhile!

The problem with a good run is, if you still do the slower stuff, it will still fill the DPF as it only really clears on a full regen so if its not needing a regen, the longer drive will stop it filling but may not burn off whats already there. 

 

I've had times where I drove a 100 mile round trip, at a reasonable pace, then after not too much stop start, needed to regen anyway! When it DOES need a region, try not to drive in conditions that will allow the filter to block up and set off the limp mode... Stuck in traffic, etc. Get a good run as soon as possible and avoid doing small runs and turning off, restarting again until you clear the light. I guess you got charged in the regen -oops, region of £180 to manually force the regen. If its getting a little over full and not cleaning fully and needs a forced regen more then once or twice, I'd seriously think of getting the DPF changed or removed as its a slippery slope to expensiville, with a detour to off-the road-awhile!

 

If it does need that, Ill put in a new one tbh. , and I guess I left it a LITTLE too late. I noticed, I was doing around 2200 RPM doing 70Mph (straight; no traffic) on the motorway. But hey Id like to think a 460 mile round trip is decent enough for the DPF!